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Mods and experiences with our Robo 3D R1+ (1st Printer)

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Curtis Wolfe, Feb 27, 2017.

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  1. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Ahhh I see now. Thanks.

    Can you guys recommend anything else I should print out?
     
    #181 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 27, 2017
  2. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I'm running into an issue of corners of overhangs warping. I thought the addition of the second fan would solve this, but it didn't. When the corner warps and rises my extruder will strike it often breaking the print loose from the bed.

    Everything that I've read says overheating, but I'm already printing at 195 ( which I found was the sweet spot for my PLA) and have the two fans on. I've slowed down to 45 mm/s as well. Z Hop is at .4

    Other then that I'm pretty happy with the way it's printing

    What do you guys think? o_O
     
    #182 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 28, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2017
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I know that warping is always caused by a change in temperature across the printed part (for example: a section was hot and became cold). PLA (just as an example) doesn't "tend" to warp, but extreme enough temperature variations can make any filament warp (some, like ABS, warp if you look at them funny). So warping is invariably a temperature management issue.

    My "guess" would be that adding a second fan has gotten you to the point you have too much (too rapid) cooling for the temperatures you are printing at.
     
    #183 mark tomlinson, Mar 28, 2017
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Perhaps rather than adding another fan you could try printing cooler?
    None of my FDM printers have more than one, rather small, parts fan.
     
    #184 mark tomlinson, Mar 28, 2017
  5. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    It seemed to have worsened with the addition of the second fan. Which is the opposite result I had hoped for.

    I was having great bridging at the rear of the print and less so in the front. My bridging is awesome now.

    Maybe play with the fan speeds?

    I know I saw in Matter Control where you could set one speed for printing and then increased fan speed for bridging. I don't see that setting in Cura. Maybe it's in the new Cura. I'm still on 15. something.
     
    #185 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 28, 2017
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yep, that would be a great idea :)

    The newer Cura is not for the faint of heart. Don't rush over there expecting miracles.
     
    #186 mark tomlinson, Mar 28, 2017
  7. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I'm trying to justify Simplyfy3D. I just dropped $100 on filament.

    Funny I only bought one when in Micro Center the other day, but ordered four more online yesterday.
     
    #187 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 28, 2017
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Please note that S3D is not a savior and still has a learning curve. Yes supports out of the box are better but that can be adjusted in most other slicers to work nearly as well.

    Don't rush to buy S3D if you think your models and printing will magically improve with it's use.
     
    #188 WheresWaldo, Mar 28, 2017
  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I can slice you a model in S3D if you want but @WheresWaldo is correct. Its a name brand tool (I love it but use about 6 variations of slicers for all my printers). Then you can see for yourself if you like it better than cura, slic3r, mattercontrol whatever else is out there lol. Just be sure to DM me with your print settings and z offset.
     
    #189 Geof, Mar 28, 2017
  10. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Thanks Geof. I don't think that will be necessary.

    I like the version of Cura I'm on. I like Matter Control too but it had a hard time rendering advanced models. Haven't had that problem with Cura.

    If I get this corner warping issue solved I'll be golden.
     
    #190 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 28, 2017
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  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    and wait a minute... only 100 in filament? :D we both know thats not nearly enough to keep you going ;)
     
    #191 Geof, Mar 28, 2017
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  12. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I certainly have a lot to learn about cooling, and print speed.

    I finally started my baby Groot. I've only just had the jewels to attempt it since way back when I started running into all those problems with rendering in Matter Control. Not mine below.

    upload_2017-3-28_21-13-13.png

    Cura rendered fine. I started printing the head at .150 layers, 45mm/s, 195/55. I reduced the cooling fans down to 50%. I also cut the model down by 50%

    It looked like it was doing well until it got to the chin and started on the head. The layer weren't getting enough time to cool and I was getting some mushing. I didn't think the model was going to make it so I cranked up the fans. It still wasn't having time for the previous layer to cool. I turned the speed down to 60% in my LCD. That hit the spot. You can see where I adjusted the speed in my print. So that's down to 60% at 45 mm/s.

    It doesn't seem to have drastically effected my print time.

    I went to 75% about halfway up the head, now that it has a larger layer to work on. It's at 47% now after 51 minutes.

    I'll post a pic when it's done and get started on the body.
     
    #192 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 28, 2017
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  13. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    You can see where I adjusted the speed at the chin. I'm pretty happy with the rest. Some fine tuning.

    I'm getting there.


    [​IMG]
     
    #193 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 28, 2017
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I'd find an overhang test print (thingiverse) and work with that. Will use less filament and typically be faster prints :D

    Make sure under the cooling tab you have a minimum time/layer. that model has some very quick layers around the chin and not slowing down to allow cooling assistance may be causing you some issues.
     
    #194 Geof, Mar 29, 2017
  15. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    My head is in the right place. I was in those settings last night. Up way too late. I'm just not sure where I should be with the cooling settings.

    upload_2017-3-29_14-7-57.png

    The body turned out ok. One of the arms layer shifted and came off. I'm gluing it. The arms are one big over hang. I'm not sure what happened there. Maybe supports.

    Learning all the time. I knew this wouldn't be a matter of pushing a button and out pops perfect prints every time and I'm glad it's not. That would be boring. :cool:
     
    #195 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 29, 2017
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    that minimal layer time (sec) option I have at 30 secs on most my printers. expands print time alot but with PLA it makes a nicer print overall. The "overhangs" on his arms arnt really so bad as its a gradual hand. No supports needed for that model.
     
    #196 Geof, Mar 29, 2017
  17. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Wonder why the shift? Just on the one arm. Let me see if I can get a picture. I've lined it up now.
     
    #197 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 29, 2017
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    well if its just on the one arm its not a layer shift :D My guess would be either 1. slicer fail 2. it warped away
     
    #198 Geof, Mar 29, 2017
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  19. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    There you go. It was just barely holding on and had shifted nearly the width of the arm.

    [​IMG]
     
    #199 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 29, 2017
  20. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    goin with slicer fail or wierdness on that arm adhesion. Mechanical fail would be all the way across.

    Is that the blue robo filament that comes with the printer?
     
    #200 Geof, Mar 29, 2017
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