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Kickstarter Edition: Full rebuild help

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by SPyKER, Mar 27, 2017.

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  1. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    CameraZOOM-20170331153018790.jpg
    Polishing the rods with 2500 grit and olive oil. Filed down the rough cut ends first. They're so much smoother now, like glass compared to the unpolished rod. Swapped the Arduino/RAMPS screws to M3 hex heads (3x20mm, 1x8mm,but I bought 10mm and it was good enough). Put the y-axis bearing holders back on the center but added washers to the bottom because I hate nuts on plastic without stress support. Just had the GT2 arrive so that will be started next until the new rod supports Mark is mailing me arrive.
     
    #21 SPyKER, Mar 31, 2017
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You should have them in a few days.
    You may need to drill/bore out the inside diameter a tiny amount (plastic swells when you print) but that is not a tough thing to do :)

    I would have done it for you to match my rods, but on the off-chance yours are slightly thicker/thinner, I left them alone.
     
    #22 mark tomlinson, Mar 31, 2017
  3. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    I got them today and drilled them. They are installed now. The lower is now put back together, says the bed. Cutting GT2 to replace now. [​IMG]

    Also drilled a hole for the y-axis switch wires.

    Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
     
    #23 SPyKER, Apr 3, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2017
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  4. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    EDIT: Nevermind! The thumbnail looked different from the actual full-size photo.
     
    #24 daniel871, Apr 4, 2017
  5. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    Tonight I was able to get the lower GT2 belt changed and tightened with the bed back on (didn't replace the plastic with springs because I want to replace the whole bed), reassembled the x/z-axis, replaced its GT2 belt, and rewrapped all the topside wiring. Tomorrow I'll attach the headbed, screw in the wires, and plug in the rest and test it out. Then finally replace the cover and hopefully start printing!
     
    #25 SPyKER, Apr 4, 2017
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  6. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    So, the motors are working well, and I about have home calibrated. My new problem is that the thermistors are reading around 350C for the hotend and 25C for the bed heater, even when the AC cord isn't plugged in! HELP! Thoughts?
     
    #26 SPyKER, Apr 5, 2017
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    A/C cord is irrelevant, USB powered the RAMPS/Arduino. Just ignore that.
    25c sounds like room temp so the bed is right the other one (hotend) is shorted or open circuit. Check your wires and connections.
     
    #27 mark tomlinson, Apr 5, 2017
  8. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    I loosened the screw holding the thermistor in and it dropped to 25C, so it appears to be working now
     
    #28 SPyKER, Apr 5, 2017
  9. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    So, in matter control, I can home everything, but when I choose print (calibration circle loaded) it thinks it's printing but nothing moves?
     
    #29 SPyKER, Apr 5, 2017
  10. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    Seems All home but the buttons for movement won't move the motors
     
    #30 SPyKER, Apr 5, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2017
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    That may be a matter control issue. Not many of us use it but you can always check their forum for matter control
    www.matterhackers.com
     
    #31 Geof, Apr 6, 2017
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Certainly try another host program (Cura, Repeitier, something) just as a test.
     
    #32 mark tomlinson, Apr 6, 2017
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    And watch the GCode terminal when you are trying to do the movements. See if any errors are tossed
     
    #33 mark tomlinson, Apr 6, 2017
  14. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    So, looking at some other posts, I closed Matter Control, and restarted it. Working fine now (without filament) except I can see that my glass on top of my heating bed is not level and teeter totters. So, how best can I fix that so the it's as flat and stable as possible?
     
    #34 SPyKER, Apr 6, 2017
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    #35 mark tomlinson, Apr 6, 2017
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Which is why we hates it :)

    we hates it.jpg
     
    #36 mark tomlinson, Apr 6, 2017
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  17. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    Best free program?
     
    #37 SPyKER, Apr 6, 2017
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well, been a while since I routinely used any of the free slicers/hosts, but Repetier host used to be my favorite.
    Last time I even looked at was early last year. Didn't stink then.

    I do have to occasionally use MatterControl for messing with EEPROM stuff on the delta printer we have and I despise it.
     
    #38 mark tomlinson, Apr 6, 2017
  19. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Either Cura or Slic3r.
     
    #39 daniel871, Apr 6, 2017
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  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you choose to try Cura I would suggest the older 15.x versions, not the newer 2.x version
     
    #40 mark tomlinson, Apr 6, 2017
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