E3D 1.75mm all metal hotend arrives..

does the max z height need to be adjusted in the software after installing the e3d hot end, because i noticed it sits a bit higher up.

 

You definitely lose some height. Adjusting max height is optional unless you think you might print something very close to the height limits.

 

Damned thermistor refuses to stay put. Liquefied PLA looks cool and smells like popcorn. I have some fireplace cement coming in on Friday that should take care of that issue. Apart from that, my test prints are looking okay. Can't wait for my new y-axis to come in so I can start printing at decent speeds again.

 

i ordered mine on Sunday. Its Wednesday night and not shipped yet (according to tracking number)
Any tips on when i get it ?
Thanks

 

Printing with ABS with stock hotend on ROBO produces same results.
PLA on the other hand is a problem. It has lower melting point and is not stable as ABS.

If this ABS print makes you happy and was the reason why you bought E3D, then your issue was not the nozzle.
I get great prints with ABS.Suffer only 1 problem, curling. Otherwise i see no reason to buy this unit other then improving PLA prints for my self.

 

Those are sample prints. I never said my stock hot end on the rostock was any worse or better..I never had any issues with my rostock nozzle either so I dont know where that came from..

The only reason for purchasing this hot end was so I could print higher temperature filaments and not worry about having a hot end meltdown. (polycarbonate, nylon to name a few)

To each his own... if you think using this will print pla better.. that's your opinion. There are mixed reviews on the e3d when printing with pla so I suggest you do your research before making assumptions. I personally didn't see any difference between the E3d and jhead when printing with abs or pla filaments.

The stock robo hot end printed pla filament just fine for me. I used it exclusively on the robo. I never changed it...matter of fact if you bought the ed3 thinking it would make your pla prints better you wasted your money because the stock one works fine for pla.

If you are having problems with your stock robo hotend. I would say 95% is user error (improper calibration and setup etc.. ) 5% for other errors.

and also rather than getting on here an asking a bunch of people when your ed3 is going to ship.. I would suggest contacting the people you buy it from. They would give you the best answer. Those guys have pretty good customer service. they have always answered my questions and are even in this forum and other 3d printing forums..

 

when you said "satisfied with the results" i assumed you weren't satisfied before.
I didnt order to get better PLA prints, i ordered it because PLA melts before touching the nozzle causing all sorts of trouble #1 which is getting jammed.
I didnt ask anybody here about my shipment, i shared the delay in shipment and asked for a tip about the hotend and not the shipment. that would be dumb if i would come here to ask about that.

Didn't mean to make you pissed and go all colorful on me, sorry.

 

Rather than making assumptions. why not just ask? i'm on here all the time...by the way i like using colors. If you hadn't already noticed. A lot of my other posts are colorful too don't you think.

Maybe you need to reread what you posted then because this statement here.."i ordered mine on Sunday. Its Wednesday night and not shipped yet (according to tracking number)
Any tips on when i get it ?" Again contact the seller.....

 

Where do you plugin the fan ?
Is there a place where it would activate only when "PRINTING" instead of running all day long ?
I connected it to the resistor wires and it works only when heating up and slightly when maintaining temperature, but not all 100%

Need a point.
Thanks !

 

directly to the power supply or at the same source the ramps gets its power from ( which is coming directly from the power supply) If you want to shut it off. Add a manual switch to it.

I wouldn't connect the fan to any wires going to the hot end. Those wires are pid controlled via ramps. It may work but not at 100%.

If you want your fan controlled via ramps you could use the fan port D9 (usually this is used for a part cooling fan) but you could alternatively use the port for a hot end fan. You'll just have to decide whether you want a part cooling fan or a hot end cooling fan here.

set the fan slider to 100% that makes sure the fan comes on full blast. You may have to add fan stop command to your print gcode so that it shuts off once printing is done. (depends on how you have your post gcode setup)

my suggestion:

I would keep the fan directly connected to the 12v source so its on when your printer is turned on. leave the d9 port for your part cooling fan because you wont be using it's full potential as a hot end cooling fan. When you print parts that require some cooling you'll have it available for configuration.

 

The fan should be connected to a 12v constant supply and should be on all the time. The E3D is designed to have this fan running all the time.

 

Well i dont want it running all the time
It would be better if it would run only when nozzle is turned on and 1 minute after it goes off.
If i knew electronics i would make a small switch that would get turned on for as long as nozzle is on, and get turned off after a minute once nozzle is off giving enough time for fan to cool the nozzle down to below 100c

Like you said, i do need my cooling fan available so i ended up modifying the fan mount so it would fit.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:226998


Yes i know what E3D says about direct 12v connection, but i have a big problem blindly just following recommendations without giving them a thought and perhaps finding a better route.
"If it fits-it ships" quite is not my thing, my thing is: if it doesn't fit, make it fit and then ship otherwise i would have bought my self an ipad instead of something that would tickle my brain into thinking harder.

 

Found good source of power from the board.
its called AUX12v terminal.
Does not power the fan when USB plugged in, only when main power is ON
And because i moved 110v switch to the front, i can easy turn of on and off.

 

which is the same as connecting it directly to the 12v power supply

 

I had 2 pin female laying around so i thought : why not plug it into the board

 

On mine, I'm going to jab
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...iveASIN=B0094GA9GG&linkCode=as2&tag=poin0a-20

between the 2 cooling fins at the bottom. That way if printing or warm, the fan will come on, but at the end of the job it should turn off when the extruder finishes cooling.

 

try it and post results. interested in the idea myself.

 

Gotta make sure u pick the right voltage.
Yours is 250v, i need 110v. But i really want 12volt one so i wont have to mess with 110.
It sucks that they sell it by 10, i want to buy 2 and try.
So how would this work ?

Is that kinda sorta how it suppose to work or what ?

 

I'll post as soon as I get'r'done.... waiting on Amazon... if it's good, I'll have 9 others to sell (I *wish* I had that many Robo3D's hanging around

That's the maximum voltage it can handle --5A @ 120V. 12VDC up to 5A won't be a problem, at least for the short term (maybe I'll only 8 of 'em).

The diagram you posted is exactly what I'm going to try (why it's important to find a NO [Normally Open] thermal switch)...