Light...

You just reminded me that I have rolls of LED strips just sitting in a box. So now I have something to do that is easy and won't wreck my hands or my brain. For now I will just power it off a wall wart (12V adapter).

Nice build, thanks for sharing!

 

If anyone finds a good adhesive that stands up to the heat in the R2 when doing ABS, please let me know. The LED strips fell off the PLA I had 3M’d them on


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If I were going to buy that plug for the board, what would I look for on Amazon?

 

These maybe?

SamIdea 9Pairs 4Pole 5.08mm Plug Type Pitch PCB Mount Screw Terminal Block Kit with Right Angle Pin, AC 300V 15A(IEC)/10A(UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5FARN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ChPLzbSPAFZ5H

 

Same but in 2-pole... someone posted a link on the first page.

 

I just picked up a 24V Daylight White variant of LED strip, and some of the 2 pole plugs. I'll wire them up in parallel and see how it goes, probably sometime this weekend.

 

Did you hook it up? How did it go?


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I finally got around to doing this one.
Thanks for the model of the curved angles, Kilrah!
The difference is... <*ahem*> night and day.

Instead of wiring my strips in series, I'm running mine through a switching regulator adjusted to 12 volts (11.5, actually, and I may even turn it down a bit more, to avoid swamping the camera).

 

The swamping isn't due to the amount of light but to the large amounts of black in the view. You'll have exactly the same with less light (until you go so low as to have a crappy picture again).
Instead you want to edit ~/scripts/webcamDaemon, and dial in some negative exposure compensation to "camera_raspi_options" by adding e.g.
" -ev -1"
You can tune the value to your taste.

Nice idea with the clock on the window

 

Seamus - Nice job. I have some 12V LED strips and will give it a try.

Do you have a link to the voltage regulator? Are you supplying it with 24 VDC?

 

This is the regulator I used:
[link]

I'm feeding it from the unused green "PWR IN" jack in the far back corner of the Robo board, using one of these connectors:
[link]

That seems to be tied directly to the power switch, so yeah, 24 volts DC in.
I stuck a random heat sink on top of the regulator IC just to make sure it stayed cool (most likely not necessary), and stuck it to the wall of the base, in the airflow from the cooling fan down there.
One word of warning: those adjustable regulators always seem to ship with their outputs cranked all the way up, so check and adjust your output voltage before connecting anything to it.
I'm also going to be putting a switch inline between the power feed and the regulator, just so I'm not burning the lights all the time. I'll probably just stick that to the frame inside the door or something, to avoid drilling unnecessary holes.

 

Hmmm... Maybe just have the lights running while it's actively printing - turn them on in the startup g-code, and off in the post-print. That could work. I'll have to look into that.

 

Thanks - I'll have a look at it!

 

You could even use the 2nd extruder output which already has the MOSFET and the same connector, and even vary the brightness with M42 P9 S0-255. BUT for that you need to wire in series like me to have a "native" 24V strip, the regulator wouldn't work.

I'm occasionally using it for a fan mounted on the print head for one type of pretty crappy filament I have that gets so soft as to break on the extruder gear when it gets warm on long prints.

 

I haven't yet, I had been waiting on a replacement power supply (just came in the mail the other day) Everything's ready for it, I just have to get around to doing it still.

 

I finally got my printer sort of working again, so I got around to doing this mod. Thanks to Kilrah for the design of the supports! I used Anderson power poles just to make connect/disconnects easy, and wired them in series like he did.