E3D 1.75mm all metal hotend arrives..

I am not sure what they mean by "Open"
Open as opening betwin connections and Closed as connection closed=contact established ?
Confused...

 

Tony, a Normally Open switch is a switch that normally does not allow electricity to flow, but needs to be activated to allow electricity to flow. The reason it is called normally open is because in a schematic, you'll see a gap typically to show that there is no connection.

Here is an example schematic of normally open versus normally closed.



(The NO is Normally Open, NC is Normally Closed)

A Normally Closed switch allows electricity to flow over it and stops it whenever the button is pushed. i.e. works opposite of a NO switch.

Another image which might explain better.

 

hmm..if you have to ask this.. you probably should rethink all your wiring. When you post a schematic on here and ask if its right that's a big red stop sign...Make sure its all correct. You may end up damaging something. that being said melody is correct.. N.O. means normally open. no electrical/current flow.. N.C. means normally closed allows electricity/current to flow. Normal state is defined.. as being unpowered or not activated. so if its closed (N.C.) when unpowered it will be open when powered and if its closed when not activated.. it will be open when activated.

 

I have no thermostats anywhere so no, no damage possible.
I am not electronically challenged, i just dont understand English terms. I had a soldering gun as my friend since i was 16, my dad was awarded many times for inventing and such.
But then Nintendo/Genesis/PS1/PC came into my life and i betrayed my friend for many many years and would only visit him when am desperate.
Still i have plenty of basics to know what am doing.

 

Question.
These hotends use MK8 nozzles right ? I wonder if it would fit.

 

Argh. Whomever thought dealing with that teeny-tiny thermistor would be easy was severely mistaken! Since I'm trying to re-use the existing wires, it was quite hard to put on those ferrules... And after I got them on, I ended up breaking the wires right next to the glass bulb, while installing it into the heater block Darn it, ordering a replacement now...

 

LOL
No dude, no one was gonna mess with the small thermistor.
I was gonna use a big one thats nothing like theone robo comes with.
In fact robo uses smallest thermistors i've seen.
i bought my self 10 but they were 3 times as big
I have no clue what size robo uses or its specs.

 

I asked one time but they use but was told epcos. I'm pretty sure it's semitec though.

 

Mike, according to Filastruder, it's Semitec:
http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-spare-parts-and-accessories/products/semitec-thermistor

 

what about stock robo3d nozzle, what do they use ?

 

My previous answer was in regards to the stock robo. V5 E3D uses semitec as well

 

What I liked about stock RoBo thermistor, is that it had PTFE-insulated wires, while E3D/Semitec one has bare wires, which you have to cover in kapton...
Anybody known a good source for PTFE wire insulation or alternatively stock RoBo thermistor with those wires?

 

Looks like they're just called thermistor ptfe sleeves eg http://alfa-tech3d.com/shop/ptfe-sleeves-of-728p.html

 

BTW, when installing E3D on RoBo, should TEMP_SENSOR_0 be changed according to this table from its default value of 1, that corresponds to EPCOS?

//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
//
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
// 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermister
//
// 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k
// (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (1k pullup)

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1

 

I just changed max temp value, using whatever thermistor that comes with it.

 

FWIW, I just read it should be set to 5 for the thermistor shipped with new E3D v5...

 

yes.... to get accurate readings, your firmware should match the thermistor your using...temp tables are different for different thermistors.

 

The thermoswitch came in... I think it's not going to be shoved anywhere in the E3D
I might be able to attach it to the head, but that's the hot part! For some reason I thought these were smaller than the TO220 form factor. Oy vey!