Questions regarding the stock R2 nozzle

Some filaments (like steel-infused PLA) recommend and/or require the use of a "hardened steel nozzle". Is this the type of nozzle that comes with the R2?

Also, it seems some 3d printers allow the replacement of a nozzle w/o having to replace the entire hot end. Are we able to do this on the R2? If so, is there any reason I wouldn't be able to put a nozzle with a different diameter on there as long as I adjusted that setting in the slicer? I was thinking a .2 mm nozzle might be better for miniatures.

 

Nope. What you need is one from printed solid. The stock one is just brass.
see my next post for the link.



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ed3 hardened steel nozzle for abrasive filament


https://printedsolid.com/products/e3dhardenednozzle

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@supercazzola So that's an affirmative on my second question then? The nozzle on the R2 hotend can be unscrewed and replaced with other ones?

 

yeah, sorry. my tapatalk is playing tricks on me tonight and my posts were being sent before I finished. Just got onto a browser so I could answer directly.

it helps to watch a video on how best to change the nozzle out. Best done when it is HOT.
You need a 7mm wrench to grab the nozzle, and maybe a adjustable wrench to hold the heater block.
a harder to find 4.5mm wrench is used for the pipe that goes into the top of the heater block, but that is typically not used for just swapping out the nozzle.
good luck

 

You know, I was about to ask the same thing, so thanks!

Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to have a hardened nozzle mounted all the time?

 

I also have a hardened nozzle on all the time. Bought a 0.25mm microswiss, and also got a 0.4 along with it. Just swap between both as needed, as they're from the same brand they are close enough not to need to readjust offset when swapping.

Original nozzle is kept as spare somewhere just in case.

 

@drbanks While researching this I read that brass is used because it has better thermal conductivity which supposedly allows the nozzle to heatup faster. I don't personally know how much of a difference it makes in terms of print quality-- more likely just decreases the wait time when starting a print or doing filament changes. The Olssen ruby is advertised as being both more wear resistant than hardened steel but also with a predominantly brass body which allows both regular printing and abrasive printing with the same nozzle. They run at around $90 bucks though and there may be an issue using them with auto-leveling.

 

@mark tomlinson I believe you - I didn't imagine there would be much difference. I wound up ordering an assorted diameter brass nozzle set from matterhackers after you guys responded to this post. They arrived today. The nozzles are significantly smaller (not the nozzle opening diameter but the entire nozzle itself) than what comes stock on the R2. Does this make any difference in terms of jam-risk or print quality?

 

That is odd because mine was longer than the stock. I bought the 0.4 one from matterhacker. It just meant readjusting the z-offset, but it works perfectly


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ordered the hardened steel nozzles. Since they are smaller will this effect the IR sensor leveling?

 

Sensor doesn't even see the nozzle, it will level without a nozzle on it at all.