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Answered R1plus bed not heating

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by darthhair, Aug 7, 2017.

  1. darthhair

    darthhair New Member

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    Hello all,

    I submitted a form in the support section of the website for this as well.

    I just finished a print and went to start another and my bed is not heating. I am using simplify and my other printer is working just fine. The extruder on the same machine is heating, the bed just sits at 26C forever. Is this a simple fix? I bought two R1 plus machines because they are pretty much plug and play and I don't know anything about ramps or motors.

    Thanks,
    Jeff
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Probably Q3 (the mosfet that drives the bed power) on the RAMPS board has died.
    You need to contact Robo Support (website or phone: https://robo3d.com/contact-us/) for a replacement part.
    You can swap their custom RAMPS for a standard RAMPS 1.4 (they are cheap too) there is a thread on here that discusses it.
    @Geof did that conversion and documented it.
     
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  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Indeed sounds like a ramps failure as @mark tomlinson mentioned. We wrote that thread in a way that should make it very easy for you to do the conversion to the standard ramps (cheaper). If your uncomfortable with that youll have to reach out to robo for a new board (they are proprietary)
     
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  4. Erin-Ellen Winfree

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    Could you link to the posting you speak of? I'm having the same problem and I'm not afraid to do a conversion.

    All my wiring seems okay and I'm getting no bed heating at all. I don't own a multimeter, do you think I should check that sort of thing first, or is it just worth it to go ahead and replace the RAMPS?

    Nevermind, I found it.

    Argh, I'm getting tired of fixing and modifying this thing.
     
    #4 Erin-Ellen Winfree, Nov 1, 2018
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2018
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    @Erin-Ellen Winfree fire up a post with the problems your having and we can help you sort it. There are growing pains and unfortunately also (at least at this time) we have to be the technicians to our little production factories. The nice thing is once the issues are settled it turns from repair and maintenance to just maintenance :D
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well the Ramps Redo is here:

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...and-rewiring-to-make-generic-ramps-work.8356/

    however maybe more specifics will help us make sure that will help :)

    If the bed heater is getting power then the RAMPS is good.

    (as an aside a new thread would have been better too)
     
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  7. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    Check the green plug with two screw connections on the RAMPS board. You might notice that it's not green anymore. They turn black, and get burned on one side because of the current flowing through them. This happens to the hot bed connector but doesn't usually happen to the hotend connector since the bed is using more current. These connectors are cheap, and you could buy them in bulk on EBay or Amazon.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well yes, but :) Most don't when correctly assembled. That happens when the current is high (in other words you are heating the bed often) and the wires are loose/poorly inserted in the connector or the screws in the connector have worked loose.

    It is a poor design really since it is a known that the bed heater wants close to 11 amps (max for the RAMPS) even if they don't burn they will get warm.

    So it is a common problem given how they are assembled.
     
  9. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    This is why I added a separate mosfet controller board when I replaced my RAMPS board. I replaced the green connector, then I had to repair the RAMPS board twice since the solder joint came loose in the same area.
     
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  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The external MOSFET controllers are a better solution for that printer.
     
  11. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    I have two MOSFET controller boards. One is on the hotend, and the other is for the bed. They are rated for 30 Amps which is much higher than is necessary. I also turned the set screw on the power supply up to provide more voltage to around 14.5 volts. The hotend & bed heat much faster plus I could get close to 285* C on the hotend for certain high temperature filaments. I couldn't get the heat that high up when it was set at 12 volts unless I kept the parts fan off. Even then it would take a very long time, and every draft would quickly reduce the temperature. I had to keep a bag over the machine since it's in a cold room without heat near a window & door. Sometimes I would even get an error message, and have to start printing from the beginning. Turning up the set screw was probably one of the best modifications that I did (and it didn't cost anything in parts).
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have't had any issues with 40 watt heater cores keeping up with temperature.
     
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  13. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    I have a 50 watt heater in mine. I think that it might heat up a little faster than the 40 watt which was there previously. It's hard to tell since the voltage is a little higher since I turned up the set screw.
     

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