Partially Solved Robo 3DR1+ (Refurb?) Underextrusion

Good Morning
I recently-ish bought a second (broken) Robo 3D R1+ from ebay and fixed all the issues up to this point (Thanks largely to this forum and youtube), but I'm noticing underextrusion.

Here's what I've done so far:
•Tightened various pieces on hotend, as they were a little loose (Had oozing from above heater block)
•Double checked the printer head isn't too close to bed.
•Fiddled with temperatures in case the thermistors read differently than my first Robo.
•Cold Pulled/Atomic Pulled several times with Nylon (Nothing came out.)
•Replaced Nozzle.
•Measured 100mm and extruded, found under-extrusion there and adjusted.
•Measured the voltage on the Stepper Driver: This was kind of weird because my numbers were janky compared to expected (Was at .058v, Y axis was at .072 so matched that... but if I adjust higher than .075 it drops back to 0v?
The thread I saw seemed to think it should be able to go to double that. Maybe I wired the breadboard funky?) - Extruder Motor used to run without heating up at all, now the extruder Motor gets to about the same temperature as my original R1+.
•RE-measured the 100mm of filament and adjusted, to correct for the new extrusion voltage.
•Changed to printing on the same computer as the original RoboR1+ as the laptop lagged during a print.

These SHOULD be chronological from left to right. I might have mixed up the first two, but I'm fairly confident on the last 3. The middle one I believe was an issue with the computer lagging, as that went away when I switched off the laptop I was using with no changes to settings or printer.


Unsure which of these prints this was, but figured it'd help. Occasionally top layer doesn't completely overlap with the perimeters, or will have gaps within the topfill itself.
(Using elephant phone holders as my test print as even if they under-extrude they're still useful and can be gifted to friends/family/coworkers so I don't feel like I'm wasting plastic)


Same plastic and print on my Original R1+ just to make sure the plastic hadn't gotten funky from age. (3D Solutech Red PLA)



My current plans:
◘Print a different oiler, as the one I'm using on this robo is completely different compared to my original and I want to rule out the oilers performance as a variable.
◘Swap the Extruder Driver with the Y axis and see if it improves anything.

Running low on ideas at this point. I never see the extruder physically stop, but maybe I'm just not watching it long enough.

I'm still a little weirded out by my voltage findings, do the latest drivers just run lower or did I screw something up in my testing? I'm not a very electrically knowledgeable person so I certainly wouldn't rule it out.

Any ideas/suggestions appreciated Thank you for your time!

 

For the slicer: I'm using MatterControl for both printers (Both have .4mm nozzles as well), and the original Robo 3D R1+ doesn't have the issue on the top layer. I'm hoping that means this isn't the issue?
The issue also isn't consistent - if I print two elephants in a row (One after another, not 2 on the bed simultaneously) I'll end up with a different pattern of gaps on the top, and throughout the individual layers.

Here's a side by side compare between my original Robo3d (Left) and the new one. The top right of and some of the bottom of the 'bad' elephant does connect to the wall ok, but not completely around, and the eye is completely screwy.
Compared to the 'bad' elephant in the second image above, this pattern is completely different (Eye was mostly fine, most of the issue is in the front leg on that one) though this elephant does appear to be one from before the potentiometer changes.


I'll try running a print through both printers in Cura though to be sure, as I hadn't even thought of ruling out the slicer. Thanks


I believe these were the Pololu's (I believe this Robo was originally purchased as a Refurbished unit from Robo before it was resold to me), which is why I was so confused that the potentiometer seemed to measure so much lower than the forum post (Found the post: http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/stepper-driver-calibration-information.6466/ ) said they should be.

Thanks again for the reply

 

So biggest culprit is probably a stepper driver going bad then (Or I screwed up the tuning)? Robo doesn't seem to sell those separately from the RAMPS/Arduino from what I can tell, so if I get them from a third party will I need to tune them myself since they wouldn't be going through Robo, or were you saying the manufacturer of the Stepper Drivers tunes them?

Thank you again, I really do appreciate the help. Until this latest issue I had thought I was "pretty good" at fixing the odd issue here and there, but this one has shot down every theory I've had so far, or at least not fixed it entirely.

 

Sorry, I should have typed Stepper Drivers, not steppers - fixed that post so it's less confusing.

Thank you for the example on which ones to get, I'm always a little iffy with getting non-standard parts, especially since last time I did (RAMPs board) I lost the ability to control the fan from the slicer (I couldn't find any spot marked for the fan on so ended up having to wire it to be always on. Haven't been able to print directly on the glass since then, I miss that shiny smooth surface.)

I like to get some things from Robo if I can just because I appreciate the heck out of their printers and want to support them but it's rare for the part I'm looking for to be in stock with them (I'm looking at you, teeny tiny fan that cools the heat break) so it doesn't happen often, and the R2 is a bit out of my price range for the next few years.

I'll drop the "Unresolved" from my first post for now until the new stepper drivers arrive and get tested.
Edit: I guess I can't drop it to blank, but I don't know if it's technically resolved yet so threw it as partially resolved for now.
Thank you!

 

Thanks for the info, I guess I'm pulling apart both printers tonight to see what I did with that fan. I'll be ecstatic to get that working again :-D

As for all in one kit, something like this?
https://smile.amazon.com/XCSOURCE-P...=8-5&keywords=3d+printer+ramps+all-in-one+kit

 

Yep, I'm a dingus, I didn't plug anything into that slot on the generic board. I think it saying "Heat 2" confused me, Thanks for the info on fixing that