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Solved Cannot release hotend

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by 4sfaloth, Apr 9, 2020.

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  1. 4sfaloth

    4sfaloth Member

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    Hi all,

    so I got myself another clog and wanted to release the hotend to fix it. I've done this a few times in the past and never had much trouble with it. This time I over loosened the screw though, and it came off. Still this wouldn't be a big issue I guess, but now I can't seem to be able to release the hotend for some reason. I have pulled the tab all the way back but still the hotend won't fall-off as usual. I can wiggle it a big a but it just doesn't fall-off.

    Is this related to the me over-loosening the screw and letting it fall? How can I fix it?

    Thanks in advance
     

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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Is the filament removed?
     
  3. 4sfaloth

    4sfaloth Member

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    no, there's a piece stuck inside (just barely sticking out of the feeder's teeth) which I was unable to remove so far
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Did you back out the spring-loaded screws? You can totally remove them (be careful or they will shoot across the room and into a black hole)
     
  5. 4sfaloth

    4sfaloth Member

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    No I didn't. Do those springs keep the hotend in place as well? Looking at https://help.robo3d.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000716831-R1-Plus-Quick-Release I thought it was only the frontal screw and the side tab?
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If the filament is not released and it is still running down into the hotend you will not be able to drop the hotend with the filament in the hobbed bolt.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Unless you heat the hotend up :) The filament will melt and pull out then
     
  8. 4sfaloth

    4sfaloth Member

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    that must be it then :\

    thanks, I'll try removing the loaded springs to get better access and then trying again to remove the filament
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you cut the filament above the hobbed bolt and remove the spring-loaded screws it will fall out

    You will need to heat it and pull the filament out at some point so...
     
  10. 4sfaloth

    4sfaloth Member

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    yes of course, but I already tried to remove the filament (both through the nozzle or back up) with the hotend at 240ºC and was unable to do so, that's way I want to release the hotend in the first place :\
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well if you remove the spring loaded screws and cut the filament at the hobbed section -- the hotend will fall out with what you have already done. Then you can disassemble and clean it. Might just have a major clog in there, but you can bake that out worst case.
     
  12. 4sfaloth

    4sfaloth Member

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    Bad news for my printer I'm afraid :(

    After releasing the hotend, heating the nozzle up to 240ºC and after a looong time to let the head go up I gave up on trying to get filament free by hand (couldn't get it out nor up nor down). So I basically cut the filament just above the heatsink and then tried to push down with the tiny screwdriver Robo provides that fits inside the heatsink. I managed to pull the filament a few cm down, but that was it. Couldn't even get the screwdriver to the end of heatsink.

    I never had such a bad clog so I am a bit at a loss on how to proceed. In the meantime I've seen Robo support (https://help.robo3d.com/hc/en-us/sections/115000193252-Troubleshooting) suggests heating the hotend and turning it upside down so any plastic can slowly ooze down. Is that what you'd recommend as well? And what if that fails to fix it?

    Thanks in advance
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The approach suggested by robo is not bad. There are a couple of different ways to approach this. If you do it the way they suggested I would suggest heating it hotter than normal. Maybe to 230 °C

    https://www.lulzbot.com/clearing-your-hot-end
     
  14. 4sfaloth

    4sfaloth Member

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    I'm getting really desperate here. I set to 230ºC and tried for a long while to push the filament with the screwdriver and also to turn it upside so that something could slip out. I couldn't slip it 90º for fear of breaking the flimsy thermistor cables and it should be around 75-80ºC, still nothing came out. Overall it must have been at 230ºC for almost an hour so I guess the heatbreak should have been pretty hot by then as well, but still I could not push anything out.

    Any other suggestions? :\
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The only thing I can suggest is to remove and dismantle the hotend.
    I do not have a video for disassembly, but it is the reverse of assembly and I do have a video for that.

    If PartsBuilt.com had them in stock I'd say just replace the entire hotend and clean that one up as you get time. However they are out of stock so either you fix that one or replace it with something like an E3D which is somewhat more effort.

    Once you get it apart you can bake in an oven (or lightly use a butane torch) to clear the heat break and nozzle -- in an oven I'd say do 500 F until the PLA melts out.

     
  16. 4sfaloth

    4sfaloth Member

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    So, I tried something a bit different. I heat the hotend up to 240ºC and took the nozzle out. Then I tried once again (still at 240ºC) to push with the allen wrench, this time from both sides (by inserting the wrench from where the nozzle would fit and pushing upwards). After a very short fight I managed to push a small piece of filament out, so I think I got it unclogged. At least now the wrench when inserted from the top seems to go all the way down as usual.

    My question now is, should I just put the nozzle back in, or should I try the clean the nozzle out as well? I tried inserting a 0.3mm driill bit into the nozzle hole (it's a .4mm nozzle) and failed, but I'm not sure if that means it's clogged or if it can be normal. I saw some people use Ethil Acetate as a PLA solvent to clean the nozzle but I don't have it at hand. Should I jjust assemble it again and try to print, or should I do something with the nozzle first? I thought about putting it in the oven at 240º for like 15mins and try the drill bit again, would that be a good idea?

    Thanks once again for all the help
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I really get leery when people push metal bits up into the hotend :) If you mar the inside of the heat break you will find that the clog factor of that hotend will approach 100% -- it is a highly polished surface inside of the heat break just for that reason. Drill bits, allen screws and the like are going to wreck that. If your heat break is clogged you should disassemble the hotend and bake the plastic out... that is the correct way to clean it.

    Bake the nozzle in an oven and melt the plastic out. Not at 240 F -- 500 F (which is 260 C). Then reassemble and see what you have. If you want you can bake the heatbreak as well while you are doing the nozzle and have it all essentially apart.
     
  18. 4sfaloth

    4sfaloth Member

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    I will remember that in the future :(

    Unfortunately my saga continues... (please let me know if I should create new threads, since this one seems to derailing way off the original one)

    After unclogging the heatskin like I described I also baked the nozzle in the oven to clear it a bit. I re-assembled everything, re-tuned the Z-axis offset and all seemed well. Unfortunately, I've now tried to print twice and both times it has stopped printing after like 30mins. I don't mean it clogs, it actually "aborts" the printing procedure or something. When I reconnect the cable to it (I usually print from SD card to avoid USB problems) I need to power off-and-on the printer to be able to get a connection, but then everything is fine. The only time I've seen print abortion issues in the past was either because the USB cable was connected and causing errors or a bad contact with the thermistor probe. Since I've been messing with the hotend etc... I kinda suspect the latter :\

    Do you agree a thermistor probe malfunction is the most probable cause? Is there any way I can know for sure (like if I print with the cable connected, will it say the error causing the abort)? Any other suggestions? :\

    Thanks once again
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The symptoms you describe are a match to the thermistor problems. To confirm it you need to run a print with the computer attached via USB and when it fails look through the GCode terminal for the word 'error' and see why it aborted. The usual suspect is an error:

    Recv: Error:Extruder switched off. Temperature fell too much during print!

    which you are already familiar with.

    a faulty thermistor or a faulty connection in the wires to the thermistor will cause this because if the thermistor is OPEN CIRCUIT (loose connection or broken wire) that will appear to the Arduino as MINIMUM TEMPERATURE (usually 0, but always a very low temperature)
     
  20. 4sfaloth

    4sfaloth Member

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    I've tried to print again the cable connected and managed to catch the error (see images below). As expected, it seems to be a thermistor failure. I also noticed something weird; after it failed I ordered it to re-heat to 190ºC again so as to be able to free the stuck part from the nozzle; while it was heating I overshoot quite a bit to 200ºC (I wasn't really paying much attention so i don't know the whole temperature trajectory, but when I looked once and it was at 160º and then a few moments later at 200ºC and cooling back to 190ºC). Is this consistent with a bad contact in the thermistor wire?

    I was thinking of just raising the extruder as high as the printer lets me, unscrew the thermistor wire, shove it as inside as possible and screw it again, avoiding disassembling the hotend again. Is this the most sensible thing to do at this point?

    tempError.JPG Error.JPG
     
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