1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

R1 dual part 4 - upgrades

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by MakeJeff, Sep 11, 2020.

  1. MakeJeff

    MakeJeff New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2014
    Messages:
    20
    Likes Received:
    9
    After last years frustration and taking a step back, I decided to dig deep and get this thing printing right.
    upgrades:
    1. BTT SKR 1.4 turbo w/2130 SPI ~$65
    2. BTT TFT v3.0 7" screen ~$66 (yes, extravagant)
    3. Marlin 2.0.x bugfix using Visual Code and PlatformIO
    4. BL touch ~$35
    5. cura slicer - MC decided to disable extruder steppers on starting a print. (might be me?)

    My single biggest issue with the R1 has been the heavy carriage sitting on the Z stops design. It would hit the glass bed and deflect it before the Z stop would trip. When doing bed leveling the left or the right Z stop would trip depending on where the weight of the carriage was. I even made a new carriage and mounted the E stepper remote PTFE tubed in the filament = not much help. Even with all my tweaks the best I could get was a 0.5 Z offset in the slicer which worked okay, but still not great. The fix was: BLtouch I tweaked and measured and tweaked again and baked the offset into my firmware. no issues. I will now start a print and walk away.

    My second problem has been filament feeding. I have tried using the stock clip on spool holder and it ends up failing part way into prints. It likes to make it look like it's underextruding when it's just underfeeding. Fix: laying the filament on it's side on a free-wheeling turntable (like a lazy suzan). I printed 2 150mm tall tower sections yesterday without fail. (I am using those cheap red anodized aluminum extruders mounted remote. 84? steps per mm so very low torque)

    NOTE: even though my firmware and slicer knows I have dual extruders, I am currently only using one to print. (they don't care) I still need to do all the tweaks to get my 2into1 hotend to filament swap and purge and retract, etc. Also I live in humid florida, and I took my 6 year old spool of filament and "cooked" it in a food dehydrator for 6 hours and it printed fine.

    OBSERVATIONS: these 2130s are quiet, I am pretty much only fan noise now. (with the exception of X and Y homing bump - tweaks needed!) Also $150 was a lot to throw at a 6? year old printer but I learned a lot of lessons. I am very confident in Visual Code and PlatformIO with Marlin.

    STILL NEEDED: dual extrude firmware and software settings. carriage part fans need to be remounted (bltouch forced me to mount my hotend lower) dupont connectors swapped to JST so the plugs will hold solid on the SKR board. design and print TFT holder. quieter fans.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    As do I ... it makes for interesting printing :)

    Now the printers all run in a dehumidified workshop (<40% RH all the time)
     
  3. MakeJeff

    MakeJeff New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2014
    Messages:
    20
    Likes Received:
    9
    Some pics of the robot and the print.
     

    Attached Files:

    mark tomlinson likes this.
  4. MakeJeff

    MakeJeff New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2014
    Messages:
    20
    Likes Received:
    9
    Printed a benchy after I printed this tower which was 7 total 8 hour prints. Backwards.
     

    Attached Files:

    mark tomlinson likes this.
  5. stan one

    stan one New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2017
    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    I have and r1+ and want to mod it with a skr1.4 board.
    you sharing your files?
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
  7. MakeJeff

    MakeJeff New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2014
    Messages:
    20
    Likes Received:
    9
    I have the firmware for mine but unless you have the exact same mods, it won't work, and I am far from stock robo.
    I have a chymera 2in1out hotend on a custom carriage remote mounted extruders, SKR 1.4 turbo with 2130s and sensorless homing. upgraded led screws, bltouch. all the printer geometry is in the firmware. you will have a much easier time modifying a fresh marlin using visual studio code and platformio plugin

    I made a small list back when I was editing with arduino editor:
    for example only, my printer was different then (no skr), line numbers are wrong now too.

    robo
    153: #define DEFAULT_NOMINAL_FILAMENT_DIA 3.0 -> 1.75
    389: #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 -> 1 //stock robo - see extruder
    395: #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0 - 1
    459: //ROBO R1
    #define DEFAULT_Kp 21.83 //--ROBO-jwo
    #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.93 //--ROBO-jwo
    #define DEFAULT_Kd 61.67 //--ROBO-jwo
    510: // RoBo3D R1/R1+
    #define DEFAULT_bedKp 180.09 //--ROBO-jwo
    #define DEFAULT_bedKi 8.11 //--ROBO-jwo
    #define DEFAULT_bedKd 1000.24 //--ROBO-jwo
    624: #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. -> true
    628: #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the probe. -> true
    702: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 4000, 500 } -> 80,80,800,84.88
    709: #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 300, 300, 5, 25 } -> { 500, 500, 50, 25 }
    717: #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 3000, 3000, 100, 10000 } -> { 900, 900, 300, 10000 }
    727: #define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves -> 600
    818: //#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE -> uncomment
    880: #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle] ->0.9 //z axis mechanical slop + = close gap to bed
    897: //#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2 ->3 and uncomment
    972:#define INVERT_X_DIR false
    #define INVERT_Y_DIR true
    #define INVERT_Z_DIR false

    1004:#define X_BED_SIZE 200 ->220
    #define Y_BED_SIZE 200 ->236
    1013: #define Z_MAX_POS 200
    1116://#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR -> uncomment
    1124: //#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 -> uncomment
    1148: //#define G26_MESH_VALIDATION -> uncomment
    1162: #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3 ->4
    1286://#define Z_SAFE_HOMING -> uncom
    1408: // Preheat Constants
    #define PREHEAT_1_LABEL "PLA"
    #define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_HOTEND 180
    #define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_BED 70
    #define PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255

    #define PREHEAT_2_LABEL "ABS"
    #define PREHEAT_2_TEMP_HOTEND 240
    #define PREHEAT_2_TEMP_BED 110
    #define PREHEAT_2_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255
    1588: //#define SDSUPPORT -> uncom

    my learning curve was having working firmware open next to the new one
    you can comment at the end of any line with a "//comment here" no quotes
    comment any line you change and the value it was changed from such as:
    DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 800, 84.88 } // { 80, 80, 4000, 500 } -> 80,80,800,84.88
    it looks overwhelming, and it does take work. but their are losts of comments in the source to help.
    Screenshot 2020-12-13 172450.png
     
  8. Rod Smith

    Rod Smith Member

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2017
    Messages:
    87
    Likes Received:
    33
    With a BTT SKR 1.4 board, you might want to consider running the LPC/STM32 port of RepRapFirmware on it. If you're comfortable with Marlin, this will entail a learning curve; and to take full advantage of it, you'll need to buy a special WiFi module for it, or hook up a Raspberry Pi. (If you're in the US and interested, send me a private message; I happen to have a spare WiFi module.) OTOH, for this extra effort and expense, you'll get something with good network access features and much easier configuration. You could use my configuration as a starting point. I recently replaced my R1+'s electronics with a BTT SKR Pro 1.2 running RRF. I wrote a short summary on this forum; or you can read my full writeup on my own Web page. The RepRapFirmware configuration would be almost identical between the SKR 1.4 and SKR Pro 1.2; the only necessary difference would be in the board.txt file, although there might need to be other differences, depending on how stepper motor cables are plugged in, etc. My Web page has links to my configuration files, if you're interested in going this route.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.

Share This Page