E3D Installation Question

@SoLong, You probably already figured this out - if you use the E3D supplied thermistor you need to change the #define to 5 in configuration.h.
@330SC, As Mike says the stock thermistor is fine, just keep the default firmware setting.

 

Hm so I should make the change. Will do, and I'll report back if I notice any improvements.

 

Yes, I used the original case not Tony's mod. For the original case I just had the cables come out the left rear and Velcroed it to the front arm of the Robo's case.

I can Slice Tony's modified design if you still need it. (What layer thickness?) You might want to install Slic3r anyways. It is a good idea to have both slicers available and the latest Slic3r rev 1.0 Stable seems to work really well. It also does an automatic fix of many non-manifold objects and includes a new visualizer.

 

Tony's mod would be great as I already have the bottom printed. .2 would be great!

I am using Matter Control which has Slic3r and Cura built in, but God knows what version. Thanks man!

 

I have not tried Matter Control yet but you should be able to install the new Slic3r and point to it's location in Matter Control. There is a configuration in Repetier for this and should be in Matter Control.

 

Sorry I just realized I also need filament settings, extruder temp and bed temp? Enclosed with Extruder 205C/198C, Bed 53C/46C that I use for some PLA. Enclosed is the gcode. Just rename the extension to gcode from txt.

 

Filament is 1.75, and if those PLA settings work for you I'm sure they'll work for me :-D.

But I normally use 195/190°, bed 65/60°.

 

Ok - resliced at 195/190°, and 60/65°. 65C seems a bit high for PLA to me.

 

If it seems too slow just crank it up with the XXL LCD knob. You probably can to 25% or more faster than these settings.

 

Nice 'n slow is the way I like to print on show pieces anyways; perfect! Thanks a ton man, I really appreciate it.

 

Setting up my E3d right now and I was wondering if I can use the stock heater cartridge? Or is it wattage rated lower than the one that came with the E3d?

 

The stock heater cartridge is a bit too small. Not sure on the electronics stats, but you need to have a snug fit and the stock cartridge doesn't have quite the same fit. You probably could get away with it, but the wiring only takes a few minutes.

 

Hmm... the stock cartridge and the one that was sent with my E3d were the same size and the stock on fits snugly. Maybe robo changed the print head in the newer models. I just received mine a week or two ago. I've seen pictures of others stock print heads and I am guessing the Kickstarter versions were different. Gonna give it a try and I'll let you guys know how it works out.
Thanks for your quick response.

 

I just realized that bed top surface will be quite a bit lower than the reported one so that 60/65C target is probably just fine. The top bed will only be about 45-50C at that target temp because of the thermal resistance and cooling at the surface.

 

Yes, the kickstarter J heads had a simple power resistor instead of a ceramic heater. The ceramic ones heat up much faster.

 

You can go up to around 300 - but then you're using materials that need loads of safety... Let's say ventilation, etc...

https://www.lulzbot.com/sites/all/themes/lulzbot/images//LulzBot_3D_Printing_Filament_Guide.pdf

 

Did this work? looks like the new printers are set up differently, the wires are connected with a kind of 4-pin molex connector, rather than re-soldering everything could i just use the same heater and thermistor? Both heaters look exactly the same? Apprciate any help i can get, my printer is in bits till i can get this fixed

 

Yep it worked just fine. I broke my original thermistor and the one that was sent with the E3d. Ordered some EPCOS clones from QU-BD and soldered the new one onto the old connections on the Molex connector. Stock heater definitely reaches 300 no problem. If you use the old thermistor you may need to drill out the hole on the heat block a little. I think I used a 1.98mm(5/64 in) bit and then fitted the thermistor with aluminum foil. Also make sure to use either the Ultra copper or furnace cement to hold the Thermistor in place. I personally recommend the Ultra copper because if the thermistor breaks it is going to be a lot easier to pull off the copper than the cement to replace it. Good luck with putting it back together and be patient.

 

Thanks for the reply . And you have mentioned two of the main problems that i now have. 1. Use Ultra copper as furnace cement can't be removed. 2. Be patient.

When i got the E3d ready to be placed on the printer i used a tiny bit of furnace cement to fill in the hole before putting in the thermistor, it tried removing it but it seems pretty well stuck and i don't want to damage the thermistor by wiggling it around to much, so i need to use the E3D thermistor and re-solder the connections. I also measured the heaters and the E3D on is slightly larger, both width and hight, so i figured i may as well use that too, as I'm already changing everything anyways. Now I'm waiting for some kapton tape to arrive so i can put it all together. However lesson learnt, next time run through the procedure before glueing things in place . At least i know that the stock parts can be used as spares now .

 

Steve, did you ever post the models on thingiverse. I'm interested in the modified wade extruder.
cheers