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Filament Management Guides

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Technidyne, Aug 9, 2014.

  1. Technidyne

    Technidyne Active Member

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    Really putting in some hours, working at getting comfortable with SolidWorks! (I can think in AutoCAD, SolidWorks not so much yet) ;)
    Here I design and print a set of filament guides to compliment my oiler.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:423187/#files

    [​IMG]
     
    #1 Technidyne, Aug 9, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 10, 2014
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  2. Peter Krska

    Peter Krska Active Member

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    Is the oiler really necessary? I take it's for PLA and ABS?

    What does the print feel like afterwards? Is it oily.
    Will paint stick to it?
    Have you tried?
     
    #2 Peter Krska, Aug 10, 2014
  3. Technidyne

    Technidyne Active Member

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    Since the oiler was installed I have not had a single filament jam.
    I went a step further and installed the ebay hobbed bolt anyway.
    The product prints great and does not feel oily.
    Have not tried painting ABS as yet (with or without oil).
    Have no experience with ABS, not sure if oil is applicable with ABS.
     
    #3 Technidyne, Aug 10, 2014
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Oiler is not needed for ABS, but if left on will not affect the print (same is true for nylon, cf, bronzefill, woodfill, etc).

    The oil burns away/evaporates in the hotend during printing.

    Paint is unaffected since the oil is gone (although you could wash it if you feel the need).
     
    #4 mark tomlinson, Aug 11, 2014
  5. ctoler93

    ctoler93 New Member

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    what exactly does the oiler do? also, what kind of oil? is vegetable cooking oil fine to use?
     
    #5 ctoler93, Aug 13, 2014
  6. Technidyne

    Technidyne Active Member

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    Keeps the Hotend "Seasoned" which mitigates jamming problems for PLA. Vegetable oil (cooking oil) is used, I use 100% Canola Oil. Just enough to maintain a light film on the filament.
     
    #6 Technidyne, Aug 13, 2014
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  7. ctoler93

    ctoler93 New Member

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    Okay so, last night after reading this post I decided to print out an oiler, (to see if that helps with my jamming problems, hopefully it would print fine, and luckily it did). After reading the post above, I just decided to try it out and it was printing fine (I have this specific print I've been using as a benchmark) it got farther than usual but not by much when I had a jam again. Here is a picture of what the jams look like: [​IMG]

    If you notice, it indeed has "teeth marks" from the hobbed bolt all the way up so I don't think its moving off from the grooved part on the hobbed bolt.

    Help please!

    Also, sometimes it does it sometimes it doesn't. The other day I printed an 8 hr print with the same filament and everything and I had no issues, the following print after that, about 5-10 min into the print I had issues, so no idea whats going on :(
     
    #7 ctoler93, Aug 13, 2014
  8. ctoler93

    ctoler93 New Member

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    Also, I took out the hobbed bolt and it did have PLA caked on the teeth, I cleaned those so now I will test again.
     
    #8 ctoler93, Aug 13, 2014
  9. Technidyne

    Technidyne Active Member

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    #9 Technidyne, Aug 13, 2014
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  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I tend to forget all of the 'other' changes (like the hobbed bolt).
     
    #10 mark tomlinson, Aug 13, 2014
  11. ctoler93

    ctoler93 New Member

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    If I'm having issues such as bending of the filament AFTER the hobbed bolt, is it a sign of too Low temp? I just want to make sure that I actually fixed this, because I upped the temp from 195 to 210, with the oiler, a straw to help the filament guide since I still haven't recieved my ebay hobbed bolt and also making sure the bolts arent too lose or too tight, I found that If they were too lose the hobbed bolt wouldn't do much and if they were too tight the hobbed bolt just ate up the filament causing it to not necessarily jam but it wouldn't feed because there was nothing for it to grip to. After I did all this testing and mods I am printing away the first print right now after upping the temp with no issues so far (I'm currently printing the Raisers). Any opinions if the explained symptom is indeed related to the fix I did?

    -Thank you!
     
    #11 ctoler93, Aug 13, 2014
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is a sign of one (or more) of these:

    1) Extruder temp too low for filament
    2) Filament clogging/sticking inside hotend
    3) Extruder too close to bed (causing back-pressure on fed filament*--usually you are getting 'wagon wheel rut' style filament laid down.)

    It is not directly a hobbed bolt issue as that is doing its job and pushing (or try to) the filament out the extruder.

    *(all of these do that--cause back pressure on the filament being extruded)
     
    #12 mark tomlinson, Aug 13, 2014
  13. ctoler93

    ctoler93 New Member

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    So assuming that it's printing fine with the temperature being higher thats a good thing. I just didn't want to fix one issue and cause 3 more. Also, the oiler should also help if the filament was clogging inside right? Although I don't think thats an issue it seems like its a sorta backpressure problem but since with the temperature change it seems to be working fine I'm guessing the distance from the nozzle to the print bed should be fine? If not correct me please!

    -Thank you
     
    #13 ctoler93, Aug 13, 2014
  14. Technidyne

    Technidyne Active Member

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    Before all the mods I was printing PLA at 218*C with an occasional jam and buckling of the filament after the hobb ....now 210*C seems to be a good reliable temp for me here with the bed at 50*C. I want to try lowering to about 200 tonight and see how it goes.
     
    #14 Technidyne, Aug 13, 2014
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    With the original Robo this was easier to determine (look at the fliament extruded on the first layer and adjust).
    The new auto-leveling ones I am less clear on, but looking at the first layer will still tell the tale. Look at the example/picture he has here:

    http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/print-a-circular-shape.2390/#post-16986

    The cross sectional graphic @tesseract has of what the filament should look like when laid down is excellent
     
    #15 mark tomlinson, Aug 13, 2014
  16. Technidyne

    Technidyne Active Member

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    hmmm..... Just for giggles I went down to 200*C and printed a small part ....no issues and I can't tell the difference in the final part 200 or 210.
    I think I will stay at 200 and see the long term result.
     
    #16 Technidyne, Aug 13, 2014
  17. ctoler93

    ctoler93 New Member

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    Aaaand that isn't completely working right. Now I had an issue where the filament came out of the side of the print head WITH bites on it (it went through the hobbed bolt). Could this be caused because of the hobbed bolt not having the "V-shape" ? Making it slip towards the side and out of the print head?
     
    #17 ctoler93, Aug 13, 2014
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Possible, I have not seen the new hobbed bolts (but the original Robo ones were poor).
     
    #18 mark tomlinson, Aug 13, 2014
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, I start PLA at 195 these days. Some spools a little higher (none lower than that) but all at 200 or less. The sweet spot for all of them was in that ball park.
     
    #19 mark tomlinson, Aug 13, 2014
  20. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    For me, the buckling before the hot end and after the hobbed bolt was due to "heat creep". The hot end wasn't getting enough air and the filament would soften just enough to buckle. A 40mm fan directly aimed at the heat sink area only solved that problem. Of course, it won't solve a clog or partial clog. Also, my set up had a teeny lip where the filament entered the hot end. It caused a small "catch" on occasion and disturbed the filament path. I drilled it smooth. If nothing else works, you might want to check that.
     
    #20 1d1, Aug 14, 2014

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