Jeff's printer has arrived

I am making these as christmas gifts this year they are made up of the tealight vase everyone has been talking about in the shout box recently it is on thingverse as well. I added a base (in the pic) I designed myself in SW it has an opening for the 2AA batery pac and an off/on button as well as a socket for a sc adapter for prolonged use. Each gift will include the base and three tealight covers WHITE, PURPLE and GREEN or RED. I would link teh base but it is not finalized yet and needs to be tweaked a bit moremay also add on a plate to cover the bottom of the base.

 

Well after a long absence from printing due to family medical issue I have relocated to Northen Cal and finally got my printer upgraded and running well. I had to design some parts for my Delta build Calypso and am focusing on parts for it now but here is a pic of a set of parts for it

This is the first layer and I see that the autolevel aspect is doing its job I will upload another pic at the end of the print.
Need to get my PC out there so I can start streaming video again

 

Well that is my dual extruder using bowden feeds and it has an LED 3 light panel mounted beneath it to light the prints. The print was actually aborted due to a filament feed issue my mistake and I decided to go the single print route until I get the filament set up more securely than it is currently. The print was 12 sets of what I call armend magnetic connectors for no better name they are the attached to CF rods and have place to snap in two magnetic spheres and tehse magnets are used to connect the 6 arms from the rail plates to the central plate on my delta I call Calypso
here is a pic of one of the connectors finished with a sample rod inserted

You can see the magnets on the far lift end(actually two stacked up) and the rod on the other side the two screws in the middle give me an adjustment of just over 1/2 inch per side so I can fine tune the lengths as they are key on a delta. The over all length of the assembly with the proper rod will be about 20 inches in length.

I am about to print the central plate so I will show that here as well

 

There are specs that have to match up the arm length should be close to the print diameter and this length is subtracted from the over all height or close too it. So as in my case I am building a large one. It is about 72 inches tall and the bed is 2o" in diameter. The arms come in from three points and what you do is create a triangle from the connection point on one of the three vertical rails, drop one line vertically straight down the other must reach to the center of the bed so at the bottom of the first line go into the center of the base for the second line and the third is the angle line back to the connection on the rail. It is the hypotenuse of the triangle and the closer you get to a 2:1 ratio of the hypotenuse to the horizontal line the more circular and larger your print area is. So in my case I want the arm to be about 20 " and the horizontal is about 10" that means I lose just under 20" of the height minus where I am placing the power supply I have about 44-46 inches of height for printing Multiplied by a circular area as a base with a diameter of 20" I have a VERY VERY LARGE Volume to print in.

Here is a picture of the center plate printed and with the magnets installed
and on with the sample arm pieces attached as well

This center plate will have the kracken installed on it
so it will be water cooled and have four nozzles

Here is a quick link to my Calypso images
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bn5s8es25a9jr7d/AACQ2H6tqAxXm1SlKoHkktXea?dl=0

 

Just finished the redesign of the armplate using the magnetic connections
here is what it looks like

The belts go through two rectangular holes from left to right in this photo one is free moving the other is where the belts ends at the opening you see at the right two blocks will be there that will lock the belt down and can be used to adjust its tightness.

Here is a completed section using some scrap CF rods but it shows the three new parts and how they work together, of course the actual rod lengths will be as I said about 20" instead of the 2" you see here

 

The pics in the last post are actually outdated and the parts have been re-designed. Instead of a plat that I attach to the slider I combined the two into a single piece. Again my desire is design with little or no support and in this last attempt I am proud to say I achieved that and was surprised at how well it actually turned out
her is my new combo arm cap and rail piece combined
This shows the only real area I was concerned about that internal block and it does look a bit hokey but that is covered up when in use and the cap has already been test fitted successfully. If the object in this second pic were rotated clockwise 90 degrees that is the printing orientation.
This print looks like the temp may have been a bit too hot. Need to do two more anyway I get to experiment.

 

I also have the arms installed here is what they look like on the printer attached to the kracken bracket
They use the old style connection and will be refitted tomorrow when I get the last two pieces printed