E3D v6 Information, Installation Guides, and Review

Direct/Universal includes a short length of PTFE tube. 12v is what the robo runs on yes.

The only difference between bowden and direct is the bowden contains 1m of ptfe, as opposed to ~8in, and a PTC fitting.

I added information on purchasing to the OP

 

Have you tried Build Tak? You can get it on Amazon or at various distributors for a good price.
www.BuildTak.com

 

Dumb question, will anything fall off that I need to be concerned about as I remove the bottom cover to get at the wiring/etc.? Are there any posts with pictures showing a rough step-by-step of the process for those of us that rarely dig into the things we buy to modify them?

 

There's a fan connected to the bottom cover with a pretty short wire. It will probably disconnect when you open it.

Plugs in here:

 

I was actually able to get that open without disconnecting that wire.

Problem I'm having though is that the fan that came with the E3D v6 is dead (determined by swapping the wire connection with the parts cooling fan and the parts cooling fan starting up and running with power-on). Ordered another fan over on Filistruder thanks to a tip in the Shoutbox, so we'll see.

 

Fan was fixed last night, also got in some Bronzefill and Stainless Steel filament.

Going to retry that basic wine glass in T-glase again and see if it'll print without a leak on the .8 nozzle and sliced accordingly.

 

For the OP, would something like this modified Greg's Wade Reloaded be worth printing off with the stock Robo first?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:673312

Would it be worth importing that STL into Solidworks (if you have access to it at work; or some other 3Dmodel software if you don't) and adding the hole you drill in the OP for the PTFE tubing to it and printing it off for the people that don't have a drill press on hand?

 

You don't need a drill press. You can do it with a normal hand held drill. The plastic is pretty soft and it doesn't take much effort at all to drill.

 

You need one if you've got some nerve damage that makes hand-guided operations difficult like I do. Plus I figure printing a spare would be a good idea if you don't do that sort of thing on a regular basis.

 

That seems fine but yeah you can even ream it by hand with just the bit.

 

So my hot end got jamed to the bed and has tore up the wades extruder base and made the hot end very wobbly. What's the best replacement version of the wades extruder that I can print out to replace the default extruder setup with the exception of using the E3Dv6 hotend?

 

This seems extremely complicated. I think I just killed my hexagon hot end and was going to order the E3D hot end instead of a replacement Hexagon, but the installation above does not seem straightforward at all. Has anybody considered making a walkthrough video showing the installation procedure on a Robo 3D?

 

I'm referring to the x-plate. Because while I've been careful to align the threads made by the two bolts on the extruder the bolt holes in the plastic on the x-plate and the recess that the extruder sits in has gotten loose so the whole metal assembly wobbles side to side pretty bad now. So I was hoping someone had a good source for the version of the x-plate used in the printer so I can do a good replacement.

 

You could try this form (with photos attached when you submit it and comments about what you're trying to fix) and see how it works out.

http://www.robo3d.com/pages/replacement-part-request

 

I could request new parts but whats the fun of having a 3D printer if I can't print out the parts to fix it?

 

If you broke the x-carriage, odds are pretty low that you can print a replacement for it.

 

Zip ties and CA glue will solve most any problem well enough to print a replacement