The makings of a BEAST.

Hello all. Today I will be showing you my modded Robo 3D that I recently finished, along with instructions on how you can make your own. I have dubbed my modded Robo 3d R1 The Robo Beast. And while there is plenty of back story on the name and why I did this mod, I feel that I should just get right down to the goods, and explain to you how you can make your very own Robo Beast.
STL files HERE

-Materials List-

2-Linear Motion 8 mm Shaft, 30" Length, Chrome Plated, Case Hardened, Metric- Amazon link
2-8mm-1.25, 1 meter threaded rods I picked up from a local hardware store
12-13/64(5.19mm) 1 inch(25.4mm) length machine screws (can be substituted with whatever you have close in size lying around)
Equal amount of nuts, lock nuts, washers, and spring washers. if you don't have screws lying around something like this, this, and this will get you what you need.
standard set of starter tools like Here
Approximately 2.0kg of filament
A drill with 15/16 bit
spool of 22 awg wire, and a few feet of 12 awg wire and wire cutters and crimps similar to this (soldering is preferred)
2-608ZZ0 bearings(optional)
Any color of your choice can on of spray paint. i used 2 cans of dark gray and one can of blue

-Lets Print!-

I used cura as my slicer. Layer height is at 0.3mm, shell thickness is at 1.2mm, bottom/top layer thickness at 1.2mm, and fill density is 20%. At those settings, total usage of filament was around 2.0kg. you can play with those settings to your liking... however I found that printing at lower than 15% density caused my top layers to be rough.

Extended Legs
Here, i give you a few options. I have 3 different styles. You may choose whichever you like.
Robo Beast Extended leg 1 and 2 Acrylic- is the one I use and what you see in the pics.
​

You will need to print out 2 of each with supports set to everywhere(2-Robo Beast Extended leg 1 Acrylic, 2-Robo Beast Extended leg 2 Acrylic) In this design I wanted the frosted glass look of the ultimaker 2. So you will need some acrylic cut to length to fill in the gap. I lightly sanded it but I believe they make spray paint frost. You can also leave it clear. Finish off the side acrylic by gluing the R logo on the out side. The LED's I used for the front blue band, are the same blue led's that came with the robo R1. I simply extended the wires through to the cavity in the front. the front blue band that covers those led's are acrylic also with 1 coat of spray paint and glued in place(the glow effect looks better than in the pics). I used the same nuts and bolt system, so it should be simple to bolt everything together. Only addition is that you will have to drill an extra hole in the inside and screw it down with a locking nut.

Robo Beast Extended leg 1 and 2, Robo Beast Extended leg 1 and 2 no led- Are simply the same as above without the acrylic side panel. One has the cut out for the front led, and the other does not. Use the same instructions above to put it together minus the acrylic parts.

let me know if there are any problems with the fit as i did not print those models out. they are just edits of the original.
Robo Beast figurine Head
I thought it to be only fitting for the Robo Beast to have its own Mascot. So i edited the head of the original R1 mascot robo the robot found Here (you will need the rest of the mascot as i only edited the head)

cable chain end
Is just a bracket i made to mount the cable chain end and rout the cables. this is an edit of
ChrisRK's RoBo3D X\Z axis cable holder. you can mount it like in the pics with screws.

for the cable chain assimbally itself you can find info on it here
Robo letters 1 and 2
Are the letters found in the front of the printer. Simply print paint and glue them in place.

smooth rod spacer
Are spacers for your R1's smooth rods that you can use to hold your smooth rods more firmly if you did not cut them exactly 23 inches(584.2mm)

super special holder solid
Is the spool holder I use made by pegasocube. only difference is i made it solid(all one piece)

Walmart 7inch RCA Tablet holder for Robo
I thought this tablet from Walmart was a better value than the smart LCD controller XXL. At $40, the tablet will give me 7 inches of screen real estate with the same functions as the LCD controller (using g-code printer app or octoprint) plus its also a full featured tablet. you will also need a powered usb otg cable like this. Walmart link to tablet
z stabilizers for threaded rod 608Zz
these are ZiggyRobo's Robo 3D Adjustable Z Axis Support and Stabilizer edited to hold a 608z skateboard bearing for threaded rod stabilization

Once you get everything printed you can paint and cure them before assembly.

-Assembly-

Things should be straight forward from here. Cut the smooth rods to 23 inches(584.2mm) and replace them with the original. Cut the threaded rods to 21 inches(533.4mm) and put them in place of the original. Splice and extend all of the wires going to your x carriage assembly by around 10 inches(a little more than 10 inches couldn't hurt) labeling your wires can help here, or just do them one at a time. If you run into any problems check out Novice Experts YouTube page for loads of helpful tips to get you through the wiring HERE.
OK...I'm running out of steam here but hopefully that was enough information for you to be able to have a Robo Beast of your own. If you do make one please share a pic on this post showing that puppy off.
Happy Modding​

 

What's the new build height you got there?

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Well it can vary... I originally had it around 17 inches (431.8 mm) but I wanted to stabilize my threaded rod's, so I made some. But with those stabilizers my hight went down to 14.25 inches (361.95 mm). Well stabilizing those rod's are just personal preference (I did not like them wobbly) there was no artifacts in my prints. So it's optional.

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That's awesome! Can't wait for the links to the files!

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That's really cool. Did you do anything special to secure the smooth rod to the lid?

 

Wow!!! I'm working on a similar design with Z risers, weeks away......glad to see it's feasible..........

 

Yep. Just get some threaded rods and smooth rods. Then make the platform or whatever you want to use to raise It. Mine would look look crap compared to that. Nice work.

 

Going to need a bigger safety enclosure now.

 

Also, can I get a link to that spool holder?

 

A little tongue-in-cheek, but there is another printer out there with the same name, OP.

http://www.robobeast.co.za/

 

No. I used the same hole in the top of the original case. But I also made spacers similar to the ones you made that go inside of those holes to hold them sturdier. I made a few with 1, 2, and 3 milimeter z thickness, to allow you to have a little variance when cutting your smooth rod's to lingth.

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It is the super special holder by pegasocube on thingaverse . I only made it solid (all one piece) I will go on ahead and upload it for you, but it will also be in the first post when I update everything. Also I made it sturdier by screwing it to the case on the side.... shown in the pic.


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... mine looks better

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Also.... I should have everything uploaded this weekend. There are still some stl files that I have to edit for some of the changes I made to the final build.
... lol... sorry for all these double/ triple posts..... still trying to figure out taptalk....
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are those just threaded rods or are they lead screws?

 

They are 8mm threaded. I wanted to do lead screws badly.... but the cost was a lot for that lingth. I might do it one day if I come up on some extra cash

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I just finished installing some 350mm lead screw/steppers in mine, you can request a quote from the place I ordered mine from for custom lengths up to 600mm.
http://www.robotdigg.com/product/39/Threaded-Rod-Nema17-Stepper,-with-460mm-Tr8*12-Acme-Leadscrew

 

If you're ok with the screws not being integrated, these are pretty reasonable for very long lengths: http://openbuildspartstore.com/8mm-metric-acme-lead-screw/

 

Yes.... that seems reasonable. Did you order some from that company? Are the rod's of good quality?

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