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E3D 1.75mm all metal hotend arrives..

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by CAMBO3D, May 28, 2013.

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  1. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    thanks for answering but one more question. I'm new here so I do not know who own a printer an
    d who owns the actual company but I must ask-

    why did you get a robo 3d printer and are you ever going to sell it and get a ultimaker (they are amazing) or a type a machine?

    why did you choose robo 3d and why do I want to?

    I'm not the richest guy and I was actually considering the printrbot jr v2 or the robo 3d

    I am scared becuase you guys are new and there are no real reviews of you guys yet. this will be my first printer and what if it breaks after a month and a half (something snaps or motherboard burns out) the company said I only get 30 day refunds for fault parts.
     
    #61 Soupaboy, Sep 29, 2013
  2. Leon Grossman

    Leon Grossman Active Member

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    I chose the Robo because it was the first printer of acceptable volume under $1,000 USD. An Ultimaker 1 kit is still over twice as expensive as a Robo and the Ultimaker 2 is three times as expensive.

    Ultimaker appears to have polish that Robo lacks. If you don't feel that you have the ability to hack and improve, then the Robo may not be for you. The Robo is a nice package with some very nice features for the money. It's also an immature product that is being refined and improved as people are getting their hands on them.

    Whatever printer you use, you need to be aware that this is an immature field and the user needs to bring an ability to troubleshoot to the table. Even a perfect printer can't print if you've set your home position a fraction too high above the build surface.

    So, would I buy an Ultimaker, no. Will I modify and expand my Robo until it meets my needs, yes. If I can't make it meet my needs, I'll design and build my own printer.
     
    #62 Leon Grossman, Sep 29, 2013
  3. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    ok. nice answer :).

    what is the biggest fault of the robo 3d. (technical fault) e.g: serious warp, keeps breaking down, houses and youres to set up?

    is there going to be a volume expansion kit where you get bigger rods and printed and are ale to print thing larger (depth -thus not changing the way the printrs she'll looks).

    what has been your faverouit e print you have ever done and do you have a hand size comparison picture of a nice large print?

    can it print chainmail easily or will it fail

    the hand size comparison is important to me if you have a large print you have done at home or work :)
     
    #63 Soupaboy, Sep 29, 2013
  4. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I agree the E3d is a very good setup
    I would also agree
    that staying with the .04 nozzle is best
    with that you can still get up t0 75 micron resolution maybe even 50 micron you may be confusing resolution with nozzle width I print at 200 micron most of the time I feel it gives me the best print for time ration at least for me


    All that being said though
    unless you are going to exotic materials right away I think the standard hot end will work well starting out just following simple guidelines

    ALWAYS keep everything below 230C
    doing just this one will get you well on your way to making some fine prints
     
    #64 tesseract, Sep 29, 2013
  5. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    If I may the biggest issue I have seen was a bed that was not leveled well that is a key aspect which is usuly the first that needs to be overcome.

    Big prints are good but prints with tight tolerances are usually better for making quality decisions in my opinion
    I have made large prints but find it much more challenging when things need to fit together

    Your chain mail will prove an interesting challenge as it will have interlocking pieces and as such will probably also have lots of tiny supports that will have to be removed when the print is finished to keep things as you want flexibly similar to real chain mail links

    I look forward to seeing this project completed
     
    #65 tesseract, Sep 29, 2013
  6. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    do you think the robo 3d can handle this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45203. ?

    I. soooo scared and will be ordering the printer.

    PLEASE NO BIAS QUESTIONS TO MORE MONEY ----what one should I get? the pla or the abs- I am landing towards the pla becuase if and when I fudge something up it will not be as painfull and might have some money to buy new parts

    (are there any gear designs so I can start printing off spare paths for the printer)

    I plan on making arou d 150-250 prints a day becuase I'm buying this for a gaming society. will it be able to hand printing for 12 houres straight? 1000s of Marion a d pacmanzippo a day :)
     
    #66 Soupaboy, Sep 29, 2013
  7. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Answers to some of your questions:

    yeah, you'll be able to print the chainmail no problem.

    The ABS version can print PLA and ABS unlike some ABS machines (cough Replicator 2X cough) so you should probably go with that. Large PLA prints can also benefit from a heated bed.

    150-250 prints, unless they are incredibly small, is probably an unrealistic expectation for any home machine. If that is what you want, you probably do want to look at one of the higher end machines that can regularly push 120mm/s speed or more. I haven't gotten good results out of the robo at much over 50. Of course like Leon said, if I made some mods, I probably could.

    12 hours straight is certainly doable.

    I have an ultimaker and a Robo3D. No question that the Ultimaker is in a different class, but at a much lower cost, the robo is not bad. ANY home 3D printer is going to require periodic repairs and maintenance so some tinkering skills (or willingness to learn them) are required for whatever you end up buying.
     
    #67 Printed Solid, Sep 29, 2013
  8. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    @Soupaboy, RoBo can handle that, after it has been completely calibrated, but as to making over a hundred prints a day of anything...? You sound new enough to do yourself a favor and do a LOT MORE research. These types of additive printers consume time like your first computer. Many prints will take hours to complete and you will have a lot of heartbreak along the way trying to get all of the variables effectively coordinated for your particular machine. Once you are good at it, individual prints still take appreciable time even if you try to print, say, 5 little guys at once.
    I appreciate your enthusiasm and the potential for the printer that you see, but you have a lot to learn. Me, too. As Leon said, it is an immature and constantly evolving situation right now. Totally cool when it works, frustrating as hell when it doesn't.
     
    #68 1d1, Sep 29, 2013
  9. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    Ok first of all just to enlighten you the printing time depends entirely on the print and I do not know if you can get 150-250 prints out of any 3d printer per day unless it was a really really small thing.

    the printer can handle print for that length of time but understand the thing you gave the link to the chainmail would probably take over a day to print by it self

    I ran single prints that went for 36 hours so you time frame paradigm needs to be shifted pretty dramtically as to how fast these prints can go

    As far as material types PLA is harder and probaly wears better but ABS is more flexible
    The benefit of PLA is it is easier to begin with no heated bed is required
    a draw back is that if you have catastrophic failures not real likely but if so things will probably need to be taken apart or replaced

    ABS benefits are its flexibility and the fact that it can be dsiolved by acetone so catastrophic failures aren't as bad as thing can soak in acetone maybe
    draw back is that ABDS requires a heated bed and in some cases a heated chamber as well

    you really need to look at how these things work a little bit more so your goals are at least attainable
     
    #69 tesseract, Sep 29, 2013
  10. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    epic responses guys. I wanted to ask a question that was unrealistic to see if there were any bias a swers on this forum. you buys passes the test but I think I may choose the pla version just becuase this printer is not for long term. I'm buying it and then once I Lear from it I can move to the ultimaker.

    I do not make the highest paying job so this purchase is huge. especially since it adds and extra $150 on postage to the uk. and 20% VAT.

    :)
     
    #70 Soupaboy, Oct 4, 2013
  11. John Rygg

    John Rygg Active Member

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    Hello everyone , I am going to jump in to the E3D boat also. With a few people here having put the E3D on the Robo.
    is there any advice on wiring up the E3D on the Robo other then the instructions on the web?

    I figure I should learn from the inspirations and mistakes of others ..

    Thanks
    John
     
    #71 John Rygg, Oct 6, 2013
  12. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    good question. I was also wondering this and what is the point of changing the hot end? better resolution or heating?
     
    #72 Soupaboy, Oct 6, 2013
  13. John Rygg

    John Rygg Active Member

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    it can heat to a higher temp. this will allow the Robo to use a greater selection of filament.
     
    #73 John Rygg, Oct 6, 2013
  14. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    It really depends on how comfortable you are with kapton tape I really hate it. I can never get it to stay stuck down on anything that was trick in any way. The E3D does supply you with some in the kit. It is sued to hole the thermistor in place but tape failed about 2 days in and simply came undone and eventually got in the way of the extruder nozzle and was just a mess My answer was to use basically a silicon gasket making material for hi temp it is called
    Permatex ULTRA COPPER Sensor Safe High Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker. It was suggested by a friend who also has 3d printers and has worked great since then.
    2013-10-06 09.41.13.jpg
    before covering the thermistor up I did one other thing as it made a lot of sense and I think this was mentioned in the instruction someplace but I would do it.

    I inserted a small ball of tin foil that was LIGHTLY crumpled up that would just fit into the hole, I then pushed the thermistor into the hole and up against the tin foil which basically collapsed around the thermistor. IT also collapses against the inside wall of the hole make a perfect conductor for heat so my thermistor gets the most accurate reading the hole is easily deep enough to do this without any issues at all then I just covered it in the gasket maker and tried pushing it into the hole a bit as well to make sure it is all locked down and added a bit more and sort of smoothed it around a bit and let it dry.

    It takes about an hour to dry but a full 24 to cure I was in a hurry but this was such a pain I wanted to make sure everything had its time so let it rest for 24 then continued the assembly and I have be happy with it ever since and I recently had to take the hot end out but during the manipulation everything related to the thermistor stayed perfectly in place, It was great and I HIGHLY recommend this slight change. Removing it is as simple as peeling it off so if by chance the thermistor itself goes bad it is not hard to replace at all when it peels off it pretty much come's off in a single piece of silicone.

    Other than this it goes together pretty smoothly and works well
     
    #74 tesseract, Oct 6, 2013
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  15. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    #75 Soupaboy, Oct 6, 2013
  16. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    #76 Soupaboy, Oct 6, 2013
  17. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I would suggest looking around at what others have printed I think you will be pretty amazed as well. As far as an answer. 3D printers print 3d object so yes it can but you may have to do some cleanup of the part as well.

    You seem to be making comments or statements that are unrelated to the original post on many different occasions and that is not fair to that original poster who may be looking for legitimate help or assistance so if you post in a thread make sure your post is related specifically to that original post.

    If not start a new thread and people can respond as they see fit to your specific issues or question
     
    #77 tesseract, Oct 6, 2013
    2 people like this.
  18. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    I'm sorry. you are right. this is my first forum so I'm not so confident with posts but it is unfair to the original poster and I will try to keep to the subject or start a new thread. sorry :(
     
    #78 Soupaboy, Oct 6, 2013
  19. John Rygg

    John Rygg Active Member

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    Thank you good advice
    John
     
    #79 John Rygg, Oct 6, 2013
  20. Ben Lindstrom

    Ben Lindstrom Active Member

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    I'm in the process of playing with like that @soupaboy . Currently things of my own design, but the major thing is I'm finding is getting right settings to balance the print out. As the same print with different infills (or even the model hollowed out) and other settings can make or break the quality of the model.

    I'm hoping to get back working with my printer this week (as I'll be pretty much booked all next week). I've been slammed with other community, work, and family events to even spend anytime with it lately.

    That dragon shouldn't be hard to print with the default + raft/supports enabled. It looks to have a solid base, and the only gotcha may be the amount of space between the print bed and the underbelly. That has caused me nothing but pain and suffering. The higher the ribbon support structure that Slic3r uses goes without contacting and being re-enforced by a real structure the more it moves when the bed shifts (one of the downfalls of a bed design like this I'm finding out). And the greater chance that any smaller part printed on that ribbon support will break, move, etc until it is large enough and connected enough to be stable.
     
    #80 Ben Lindstrom, Oct 7, 2013
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