Are these suggestions implemented?

Yes, and no (assuming he was using an R1 and not a beta).

 

• Video at 1:22 Spool Holder, the supplied spool holder actually works very well, but if you need something different here is a list of things you can print, http://www.thingiverse.com/search/page:1?q=robo3d+spool&sa=
• Video at 2:10 McDonalds Straw, not really necessary, especially if you use a spool holder that comes straight down from above or use a filament guide of some kind.
• Video at 2:49 Hotend, Robo supplies a hexagon hotend with all their variations of the R1. It is a perfectly serviceable hotend. There are nicer hotends available on the market, but if your Hexagon works well there is little compelling reason to change it.
• Video at 3:40 LED, already included, the older R1's use crappy blue LEDs that don't provide any real advantage over no LEDs at all, the newest ones changed the LEDs to white, a significant improvement.
• Video at 4:13 E3D hotend, this is probably the most done upgrade to the Robo R1, it just works and is a nicer hotend than the Hexagon, as it is totally rebuildable. But the supplied Hexagon is not bad as a hotend.
• Video at 4:45 LEDs rehashed, already included in the R1
• Video at 5:17 Fan Shrouds, again there are a ton of them on Thingiverse, take your pick, http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=robo3d+fan&sa=. This is a must if you replace the hotend with an E3Dv6.
• Video at 5:35 Greg's Wade Extruder Gear, The Robo R1 (all versions) use a simple standard Greg's Wade extruder, there are numerous replacement gear sets for this extruder, if you are looking for something new, might as well print a herringbone gear set, all with the inherent advantages that herringbone style gears provide. Pick from these, http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=greg+wade+herringbone&sa=, all available on Thingiverse and printable on a default RoboR1.
• Video at 6:24 Z axis limit switches, these were totally redesigned and there is no need to change them or any available upgrades.
• Video at 6:54 Z Axis Stabilizer, all newer R1 and R1+PLUS printers have the Z axis rails extending to just under the printer top. There the rail sits in a circular enclosure that acts as a stabilizer, no need to print the one suggested. You can place a piece of open or closed cell foam in the circular area to reduce any vibration.
• Video at 8:08 Bed level, this isn't really an upgrade but rather a best practice, it is true regardless of the printer you own. You no longer need to turn any lead screws, M565 command in your start up gcode takes care of any offset for you. If you have your bed as mechanically level as possible, the Marlin 1.0.0 auto-bed-leveling does work reasonably well.
• Video at 10:56 Quirks, a truer statement cannot be found, all printers have quirks.

The Robo guys should probably send Barnacles a new printer so he can update this video.

 

He has a beta, or maybe 1st generation Robo.

 

@Jimmy Husain

1. You want the J-head version.
2. The Herringbone gear set runs quieter and meshes better than the original gear set with less backlash. If you are going to print new gears you should really print those as it is an upgrade over the stock gears.

 

Yes, but you may need to reprint the quick clip. The Hexagon has a 4.2 mm groove and the E3Dv6 has a 6 mm groove. Someone already posted one on Thingiverse, here.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1192896

 

Yes you can print just the herringbone gear set, yes it is the same gear ratio, you must calibrated it anyway as the default Robo setting has no basis in reality.

 

I am using an old 4GB card, it is so big I can put hundred of files on it for printing, although I don't. you just don't need anything too fast or too big. Go cheap, but reliable.