E3D Titan Extruder

@WheresWaldo
Thank you, ya Im not going to waste my time trying to press them out I ordered new bearings. Thank you for the info!

@everyone
Don't forget to take into account the titan drive gear. A lot of you are making designs which fit the enclosure of the titan but are forgetting you have a gear that hangs out as well. That may end up running into z rods, etc.

 

I checked mine, and it will run into the zoo threaded rod at full right. I was planning on adjusting the x travel in the firmware to insure that it stops short.

If I can, I want to move it slightly so that the drive gear slides between the zoo rods.

 

as long as you are aware, i just hate for someone to finish only to find that out after the fact.

 

Hmm i'll check tonight but I don't see how thats possible it still is way narrower than the stock setup overall. Maybe it would hit if you drove it past the end amounts on the right side? Suppose i could add a bumper if thats the case.

Like the last picture i posted is over 10mm narrower than stock overall even though the carriage is wider. It doesn't have the gear on it but I doubt it hangs 10+ out past the carriage that I have mocked up so far.

 

Well, I am using the carriage that you made with the hotend moved forward. The drive gear will hit the threaded z rod before the carriage hits the end of its travel on the right. (Remember, this setup has the motor on the back and the extruder on the front. This means the drive gear extends to the right.) I could add a bumper, but I think it would be easiest just to command x to the right from home to see how far it can go before hitting. Then edit that number into the firmware or slicer. It'll never be a problem after that.

 

Yea I get it, but its narrower than stock, so theoretically the build dimensions should already prevent it from ramming into the side. Perhaps if you jog controls somehow ignoring the build dimensions it would hit? in that case a bumper might at least help from ramming the gear into something. Unless that gear sticks out more than 9mm past the edge of the carriage on the right? then there would be a problem. I'll have to look at mine when I get home.

 

Okay. I see what you are saying. I edited my build dimensions because I wanted the extra 5mm or so that was unused. Putting in the new numbers after this mod will still likely leave me with more than the stock hardware and firmware are set for, but less than I have now. (I'm not at home, so I can't tell you exactly how much more x travel I have over the stock settings.)

 

I just mocked it up on my current carriage during lunch. My new carriage will just be wider to the left but overall 10+mm narrower than stock. There is plenty of room, the gear doesn't even hang out past the edge of the stock carriage. I'm not sure how yours is hitting anything?

Stock, the quick release tab is the first thing to hit something on the right. ( Edit: I just noticed my main gear on my new stock R1+ is off kilter..weird )


Titan, tons of room.

 

With that design I'd like to see how your hotend fan mounts up. with the stock carriage being flat like that there was not enough room even with it flipped upside down to function properly.

 

Hmm, i stuck it on there the other day and it was fine i'll check again. Its essentially the same as when I put a 6mm quick release bracket for stock extruder in that worked just like the stock ones now come with..worked fine. But i'll double check. I have the stock E3D Fan. not that larger one you have in your render. ( at least it looks larger? )

Here is my pre-titan setup. That yellow block is 6mm. so the hotend sits up probably about the same as it would with the titan on there. And the fan fits fine.

 

it might be. I just couldnt get it to work with the stock carriage nicely, but maybe your new carriage is better.

 

Hmm i dunno the one in my picture(s) is just the stock one and its fine. (Edit: its not stock but its Mike Kelly's which i think is stock? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:647798 )

 

I found a program that will "sort" of convert .obj into a wireframe 3dm file that I can at least open and edit. its a mess but I can at least snap to line segments on it and whatnot.. and sort of re-create it by tracing over it.

http://moi3d.com/wiki/Resources#Obj23dmWireframe_converter

 

I did convert it the other night with the trial edition using that plugin/script but like you said it was a big mess. I exported from MOI for use in 3DS Max. The file was about 45MB and would open but when I tried to export it back out of 3DS Max it would fail to export. I am not familiar with MOI so it could have been the way I exported it.

 

No what you did is probably fine. Mesh and NURBS just don't play well together. MOI's explination summary sums its up pretty good.. lol

Converting NURBS to a Mesh is like converting and Apple to apple sauce. Its almost impossible to convert applesauce back to an apple ( Mesh to Nurbs )

 

When printing a new carriage, is it easier just to buy new bearings?
If so, are these what I should purchase
http://www.amazon.com/Sprite-Scienc...ue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A1230ESH9QDAN7

Also if I were to need a larger motor than what I am currently getting from Amazon tomorrow 20mm 13Ncm. Would this motor http://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Motor...rue&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_1&smid=AWQBCGWISS7BL be good of should I try to stay with the stock motor?

I

 

The motor you linked to is the same dimensions as the stock motor. Just stick with stock if the 20 doesn't work. I have the 20 mm on order (no Prime for me ). It should be fine if you already ordered it. Just try it out and see.

 

There is also a 25mm, 18 Nm version that I am considering using. I'm being selfish as waiting for someone else to have tested the 20mm motor first. I know that it works for PLA/ABS, but it would be nice to know if it will work pushing PET or nylon.