1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Durable Filament?

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Ryan TeGantvoort, Sep 27, 2016.

  1. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2016
    Messages:
    343
    Likes Received:
    172
    Hi guys!

    I have basically just been printing with PLA, while getting used to the printer. All the parts I have built for our manufacturing facility just don't withstand the environment, basically just keep breaking or wearing out.

    The main parts that I build and have to keep rebuilding are End Effectors for our Material Handling Robot. I don't really mind them breaking because it is saving the Robot in the process but I am having to replace them too often. Originally the End Effectors were made of Aluminum which, over time, has wore a larger groove and will not handle the wire anymore.

    The Robot is paired with an AIM Wire Bending Machine, which allows us to build some pretty intricate parts. But the End Effectors take a beating from time to time depending on Wire Straightness and so forth.

    For example, we are grabbing the wire from the AIM Machine and then repositioning to achieve another bend which would not be possible without the Robot, unless you get the new Synchro Machine by AIM then anything is possible, but that's out of the question. When the wire feeds from the AIM Machine through 2 eye loops in a handle, the possibility for error is huge and, if it misses the eye loops, the wire will rip the handle out of the End Effectors in turn snapping them. I have tried printing these with 75% infill, 6 Top/Bottom Layers, and 5 Outer Shells and still breaks like nothing.

    I attached a couple images. One is the End Effector itself, which the Robot uses 4 identical pcs. The others are images of the parts we are building.

    I also build Tool Holders for various stations, which a lot of welding/grinding/etc take place. And a bunch of random parts/tools for our CNC Mill and Plasma Table. We do have a Powder Coating System, which would require a lot of heat resistance, but I have not needed to build anything for that, yet anyways.

    I want to build more stuff for our shop, like storage bins and organization stuff, but PLA is just not cutting it. Any ideas on a more durable filament. Temp is not a huge issue but is apparent. For the most part, Impact and Wear Resistance is what I need.

    Thanks!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2015
    Messages:
    5,905
    Likes Received:
    3,593
    Take a look at the information provided by the Taulman website, they have a lot of information on the merits of different types of filaments. While geared towards their own filaments (which are excellent by the way) but it applies to others as well.

    Here is a link to some of their information; http://taulman3d.com/how-to-choose.html
     
    Geof and mark tomlinson like this.
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Geof likes this.
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    OK, that was freaky :)

    Maybe PCTPE or a Nylon depending of course on the exact usage

    You want something with a longer wear (not really stronger, durable rather than stronger).
     
  5. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2016
    Messages:
    343
    Likes Received:
    172
    "The end PLA part "feels" hard, but it's also very brittle." - Quoted from that link BOTH of you posted lol!

    This is the problem I am coming across. Will the Taulman filaments require a hardened nozzle as well?

    Yep, when the PLA ones are in production for an extended period of time, which does not happen very often since they typically break before, the wire will eventually wear a larger groove in the End Effectors which reduces the clamping force making them useless. Oh and did I mention we just hired a new operator....FNG.
     
    Geof and mark tomlinson like this.
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Not really.
    You can get by without a hardened nozzle on those.
    I would still suggest (long term) use a hardened steel nozzle for everything. Doesn't hurt.

    PCTPE would probably be ideal, but that is just my guess :)
    It will be a bit flexible so if that won't work you need to use something else. PolyCarbonate maybe.
     
  7. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2016
    Messages:
    343
    Likes Received:
    172
    Will the Alloy 910 conduct electricity and/or withstand 400 degrees Fahrenheit?
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    specs are here:

    http://taulman3d.com/alloy-910-spec.html

    tG is 82 °C so probably a bit low

    Then again, so is PLA :)

    60-65 °C

    for PLA and if that is mostly working ... well.
     
  9. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2016
    Messages:
    343
    Likes Received:
    172
    The high temp and electrostatic was for a different application which I thought would be interesting for our Powder Coating System. But that's not going to happen.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    If you want a High temp filament look at the Taulman BluPrint.

    tG is 100 °C (better than ABS)
    Melt point is way higher (255 °C)

    About the best I can think of in that respect

    edit: Polycarbonate has a tG of 150 °C ... BUT it can be almost as much of pain as ABS if you are not careful. We got it working with ABS juice and the bed at max (115 °C)
     
    #10 mark tomlinson, Sep 27, 2016
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2016
  11. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2016
    Messages:
    343
    Likes Received:
    172
    Okay I will look into that but the high temp need is not my first priority. Just looking ahead but I don't see a use currently.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Good luck. While glass transition temp is the point were internally the filament starts to transition from a solid to a fluid, it is not the flow temp so you can in many cases withstand a higher temperature without failure if the stresses are right (or light).
     
  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    Ive made many mechanical items with colorfabb xt and ngen. While not nearly as strong as what others have mentioned may be worth looking at :)

    All about your needs. Testing is key :)
     
  14. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2016
    Messages:
    343
    Likes Received:
    172
    Looks like I am going to order a couple types of taulman and maybe a colofabb xt, ht, or ngen to try out. What would you recommend as a good cheap general filament for testing/prototyping before a final print? I am thinking PLA, since I have had good luck even printing the Robo brand, but not sure which brand everyone likes/prefers? Plus all the taulman stuff is either clear or black and what fun is that!
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    PLA is always my go-to testing filament :)
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    When your model is ready do a DePrime test obj (or two) on the stuff you really want to print with and get the settings dialed in and you are good to go.
     
    Ryan TeGantvoort and Geof like this.
  17. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    Pla is my go to as well. I use foxsmart (16/kg) or hatchbox (24/kg). Good results with both.

    Been using foxmart more lately, even their flexible (tpu) is good and at 30/kg couldnt say no :).
     
    Ryan TeGantvoort likes this.
  18. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2016
    Messages:
    343
    Likes Received:
    172
    Do you guys buy direct, amazon, or some other store?
     
  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    foxsmart is available through amazon if you perfer though its cheaper to buy direct. www.thefoxsmart.com

    hatchbox I buy from amazon so if I have issues I can get a new spool with no hassle.

    @Printed Solid sells Colorfabb and taulman. www.printedsolid.com

    I think he has colorfabb on amazon as well

    I think I've seen taulman on amazon.

    bright side with printedsolid.com is you can pay with your amazon account if that is your preferred method.
     
    Ryan TeGantvoort likes this.
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    For Taulman I shop amazon first (since Printed Solid swapped to a ColorFabb reseller he tends to carry mostly theirs -- not a shock).
    Sometimes I have gone direct with them since the prices are often the same.

    PLA I get from whomever has it the cheapest that day :)
     
    Ryan TeGantvoort likes this.

Share This Page