Solved Small zits when crossing perimeter on circles

I'm getting a small bump out on circular products only. It bugs me! That's the real problem. I know the machine works in straight lines only because of the nature of STL's, but it's annoying. LOL. I've checked my extruders over and over and they are calibrated perfectly. The bump only occurs where it does the outside perimeter and then crosses it to do the infill.

I'm using Simplify3D and I print Inside-Out. Would Outside-In help or would my outside not be as pretty?
I've also tried a .2 coast at end, but I don't want to go too crazy with that. I tried backing off my extrusion multiplier just a little bit, because even though I'm extruding 100 for 100, thickness and density are still in the equation.

In short, I'm looking for any experience in reducing the visible and textural annoyance on a circle when the head stops and goes inside. I think there's a few guys in here that may have a secret or two.

 

I have checked out the guide and it points me to all of the issues with over extruding and using coasting and stuff. In Advanced, I do have avoid crossing outline for travel checked. Is that the one you mean? The weirdest part is that I only get this on circles. If I have a straight and round feature on the same part, it shows up on the round and the straight is perfect.

 

Yes

 

Hmmmm. For Ooze control, I have "Only retract when crossing open spaces", "Force retraction between layers", and "only wipe extruder for outer-most perimeters" all checked.

 

Haven't tried that yet. I'm so lazy, I thought I'd pick the brains first. I keep trying things, but can only do one at a time and you all know how long it takes to print stuff.

 

Mark I just told you I was lazy and you want me to run test models?! LOL! TGIF! I'm feeling slap happy.

 

You're a mean one. Here's the first try.

 

That print was also changing to outside-in

 

R1 plus. I think it looks like slight over extrusion as well so I tried adjusting the multiplier down. Did nothing. I just ran another print back at my old settings and jumped the temp. I always try to stay as low as possible, but I think it has to do with a flow issue and head pressure now. I went from 195 to 210 and it's almost completely gone. No stringing either. This PLA says 205 to 225 on it, but I don't listen.

 

No need to reflash. I use ramps 1.4 controllers. This is odd. I agree, but I did notice the new PLA I picked up has higher temps on it. I just bumped to 215 and ran again. From what I can tell, it looks perfect. Absolutely zero stringing and so far no zits. I'm just feeling lucky that I didn't jam at the lower temps if it was all just temp issues. I have 2 Robo R1 pluses and both were running identical. So now I just feel dumb.

You guys are a great wall to bounce stuff off.