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Solved Bed not aligned with Matter Control or S3D

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Caleb Cangelosi, Jan 27, 2017.

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  1. Caleb Cangelosi

    Caleb Cangelosi Member

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    The digital print bed in both Matter Control and Simplify 3D is about an inch off (front to back). So for example, a piece that shows up as centered just between the heated bed lines is actually outside of the heated bed. It's more of an inconvenience than anything, because I suppose I can just compensate and move my prints to fit. But it'd be a lot nicer if there were a way to make an adjustment in some setting so that it matched perfectly. Any advice?


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    #1 Caleb Cangelosi, Jan 27, 2017
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    not without re-sizing the bed in the software and loosing printable area or repostioning the heater pad to be in the actual bed center..
    both of those are not fun ideas.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Jan 27, 2017
  3. Caleb Cangelosi

    Caleb Cangelosi Member

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    Bummer - so how do you think it happened to get off?
     
    #3 Caleb Cangelosi, Jan 27, 2017
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Assembly. They are not always good at the heat pad for the bed being centered.

    Generally I don't worry about it and suggest manually placing the stuff on the heated section if that is required

    Actually the heat extends well beyond the pad at lower temperatures so the whole print area does get warm, but only the center will be at the indicated temperature. .

    Only ABS or Polycarbonate needs the bed at or near max temperatures. There are usually better filament choices.
     
    #4 mark tomlinson, Jan 27, 2017
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Of course you could use a better/bigger heating pad :)
    If you want to go that way I'd suggest upgrading the power supply a bit as well since it does not have a lot of extra capacity as-is.
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Jan 27, 2017
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  6. Caleb Cangelosi

    Caleb Cangelosi Member

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    I'll just tweak it manually. I print with PETG, and it tends to lift when it isn't on the heated part (or perhaps it's because I haven't applied hairspray/gluestick outside the heated area).

    This is a somewhat related question, but recently I haven't been able to print things without a raft. When a raft is laid down, the first layer of the raft is thick and sticks down well (even the skirt seems to stick better). When I don't do a raft, the first layer just seems weaker and doesn't want to stick. I hate to waste the plastic on a raft but it enables me to print things. Any particular settings I should look at when I don't really need a raft? Seems when I first got the printer it worked just fine without rafts.
     
    #6 Caleb Cangelosi, Jan 27, 2017
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Don't forget that the actual movement ranged and the advertised size are not the same. Robo overestimates and has numbers in the firmware that don't jive with reality. The printer can only move to about 95% of the area listed in firmware and in the slicer settings. The bed size is closer to 240 mm than it is to 254 mm That will skew what the printer thinks the center is buy a significant amount. You have to remember the printer doesn't test for or check maximum travel, it just checks for the 0 position, then calculates the center of the bed by taking whatever number it is told and halving it.

    If you edit your profile to include the actual navigable area, the center will actually be in the center of the buildable area.
     
    #7 WheresWaldo, Jan 27, 2017
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