Auto bed leveling malfunction robo c2

OK. I haven't glued the magnet yet, because 1) I was contemplating elmers vs superglue, and 2) I wasn't sure I wanted to alter the height by the thickness of the glue.

But I did put paper shims under all the corners except the highest. I cut out circles the size of the magnet. It was a bit of a pain to place them, but I got it done. First I tried one on the front right and two on each of the back corners, and that was a disaster in the back.

So now I've done one in each of the 3 corners except the front left.

That turned out surprisingly even. Now it's all a bit mashed-in (except, curiously, the skirt), so I'm trying again at offset -5.2 instead of -5.3 and I'll see if I can walk down to a good print everywhere.

Here's the current state:



Update: at -5.2, there was just a tiny bit that was too high in the back right. I'll see how the rest of the bed goes and then decide whether to go with -5.2 or -5.3.

 

Frankly I want to throw the autoleveling hardware into a lake and just have a few dang thumbscrews. I can level my Replicator 2 in about two minutes whereas I've been working on this thing all afternoon. I'm on my 9th test print I think (just letting it go partially or all the way through the first layer to check out the thickness around the plate).

It would HELP A LOT if there was some way to see the 9 values that the autoleveler observed.

 

OK, the best I can do is single pieces of paper under three corners, -5.3 Z offset, and the first layer looking a little mashed. I can't get -5.2 working without the back-right corner losing grip. The autoleveler seems to overcompensate for any additional paper shims I put in there -- the corner I try to shim up ends up too low.

I'm going to let this job run to completion and see how it goes (13 hours, so I'll know more in the morning).

It would be interesting to create a model of loads of concentric squares from 5" down to like 0.5" so you could print it to check leveling across the bed. If there's one thing this exercise has taught me, it's that printing a tiny test print in the dead center of the bed doesn't really tell you much.

 

Hmm. I've only printed via USB stick because I have a Mac and the person who was going to post Cura settings for the Mac hasn't done so yet. I guess if I got Cura going on the Mac and printed over a USB cord then I'd see the GCode output?

Oh... I see there's some output in the Web UI too... I never saw it because you have to click something for it to show. Dang, that might have saved a bit of time. Sigh, learning experiences.

 

Nice! Well, it's busy working on its first overnight job at the moment, so I'll give that a shot tomorrow.

 

I'm having similar issues and at the point where I want to try something different for a bed. I'm not sold that a plastic bed isn't going to warp over time and this will be an ongoing problem. Then you have the removal of the bed if the print sticks too much that you can't pry it off which has potential to stress the magnets. Maybe a nice piece of tempered glass with magnets on the back (much like the R1) to have a completely flat surface would do the trick.

 

When I first tried setup and didn't realize the bed was bent, I was getting a Z level of 10.9 and of course it was doing wrong. After I bent the bed level and re set the Z axis, I got a 9.2 for the setting. It seems to be perfect. I used blue painters tape to lay out and apparently the sensor sees it. I didn't realize it was optic sensors though so the 5mm above the bed thing was puzzling me too. I assumed it was like the Robo R1 Plus+ that I have where it touches the bed. It seems to be working fine though now that I have bent the bed level. That could be an issue others get and don't realize it. Manually moving the nozzle to each corner of the bed and checking the gap is the only way to be sure. Mine was a good inch and a half off in the front. It was pretty badly bent.