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Mods and experiences with our Robo 3D R1+ (1st Printer)

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Curtis Wolfe, Feb 27, 2017.

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  1. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    I didn't like the new version personally. Didn't seem "finished" to me.
    I'd be interested to hear if anyone is using it and is happy with it.
     
    #141 Rigmarol, Mar 21, 2017
  2. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Which version are you using?
     
    #142 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 21, 2017
  3. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Here's my current settings

    upload_2017-3-21_19-47-54.png
     
    #143 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 21, 2017
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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    15.x Is the older more stable version while 2.x is the newer one. Too much of the new one is still work in progres

    Sent from my BNTV450 using Tapatalk
     
    #144 mark tomlinson, Mar 21, 2017
  5. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I tried the newer new last week and was struggling with it. I like this one.
     
    #145 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 21, 2017
  6. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Still looking pretty good, but I'm having a hard time completing this model.

    When the Robo is doing those little overhangs at the top they warp a little until it gets it flattened out. The hotend is hitting them when it's passing over them and knocking the model loose. The grey one. I caught as it did it and I held my finger on the raft until it adhered again. You can see the the flaw near the top.

    Increase Z hop?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Other than that I think the model looks pretty good.
     
    #146 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 22, 2017
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Curtis Wolfe I find printing with a BRIM better than printing with a RAFT on models with small contact areas, the raft is easier to cut away from the model and since the model is actually on the bed the bottom layer looks much better.
     
    #147 WheresWaldo, Mar 22, 2017
  8. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    What do you think about my hotend striking the model? increase Z-hop?
     
    #148 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 22, 2017
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    That might work, I pretty much use 0.8 mm for every profile. Be careful setting this on the R1+PLUS it has to be in multiples of 0.02 mm or it won't work as expected.
     
    #149 WheresWaldo, Mar 22, 2017
  10. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Thanks. good to know. It was set at .075. Maybe increase it to .155. That's increased in multiples of .02.

    .8mm seems like a lot

    Are you on the R1 +PLUS ?
     
    #150 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 22, 2017
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    That must be the new math 0.155 is not evenly divisible by 0.02 at least not when I went to school back in the prehistoric era. Why not just try 0.2 (see how this works 0.02 x 10 = 0.2) I actually have finer resolution than a R1+Plus I am using TR8*2 lead screws and the PLUS uses TR8*4 so I can move Z in increments of 0.01 and the PLUS can only do 0.02 mm
     
    #151 WheresWaldo, Mar 22, 2017
  12. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    LOL! No. I just increased the setting it is at (.075) by .02 x 5, but now I understand what you mean. Thanks
     
    #152 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 22, 2017
  13. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    Im using Cura 15.04.6

    Slowing way down on those overhangs may help. I get the same issue on balls and small ball joints and such. Slowing down has helped but I'm still learning.
     
    #153 Rigmarol, Mar 22, 2017
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    <checks pulse> Still got one, still learning :)
     
    #154 mark tomlinson, Mar 22, 2017
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  15. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    If I want to hook up the printer via USB to Matter Control to look some things do I have to disconnect the LCD?
     
    #155 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 22, 2017
  16. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I pulled off the bed to check screws for tightness.

    Man, Those Y tensioners were way loose.
     
    #156 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 22, 2017
  17. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    I use my PC/USB at the same time as the LCD Controller is connected. I can print from either or at will.
     
    #157 Rigmarol, Mar 22, 2017
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  18. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I've been running some G29 test. To my eyes one of the Z switches on the other side of where its probing is not disengaging.

    upload_2017-3-22_21-15-30.png

    Am I way off here?
     
    #158 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 22, 2017
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Normal. The two switches are probably not perfectly aligned and if they were, one side is heavier than the other.
    Feel free to experiment with fine-tuning the position of the switch on the brass but :)
     
    #159 mark tomlinson, Mar 22, 2017
  20. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Why is Cura messing with me now. I went to put a brim instead of a raft after adjusting my Z hop and it wouldn't do it. It kept putting the raft on. I switched models and even though I told it to put a brim or raft on it wouldn't do either. It also changed the start up even though the G-code wasn't changed. I couldn't get anything to stick so suspecting I had a bed level issue I went through the G29 tests and try manually leveling with the Z axis screws. The image above is where I ended up. Went back to Matter Control to slice the model and no problem. The brim went down and it printed the model. Not a great print but at least the hotend wasn't striking it. Which is the one thing I wanted fixed. The Z-hop is set at .5mm in MC so I'm not surprised it fixed that problem.

    Re-install Cura?

    I can't make any progress because I'm always at a different starting point each day it seems.
     
    #160 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 23, 2017
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