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Nylon 910 with Simplify3D

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Jeff Hamilton, Jan 14, 2017.

  1. Jeff Hamilton

    Jeff Hamilton Member

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    I am trying to print a part with Nylon 910 but I am having a small problem. As you can see from the picture the software is crossing over between the two sections. My problem is when it leave one side and goes to the other it leaves a small bump on the surface. I need that surface really smooth and I can't find a way to not have it jump across. Any suggestion would be helpful.
     

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  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Jeff Hamilton, I think that is more of an S3D Forum question, but you could try increasing the coast feature or perhaps bumping up the retraction a fraction of a millimeter.
     
  3. Jeff Hamilton

    Jeff Hamilton Member

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    To be honest the folks are really great here and I just don't want to join another group.
    I tried several settings and then decided it was easier to remove them with an exacto knife then to keep adjusting the settings.
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    @mark tomlinson has alot of experience with 910 and S3D. Possibly he can chime in on something that will help?
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have a hard time believing that is an Alloy 910 issue.

    If you use a different filament with that model does it slice and print the same way? Does it try to jump the gap?

    It seems like the tooolpaths are the issue (not the filament specifically).

    You may need to ping someone in Simplify3D support or at least search their forum since they are going to be the real experts :)
    Sure a number of us use it, but we are not all experts on it. I do however think there is likely a slicer configuration setting that would correct this. Did you try "Avoid Crossing Outline for Travel Movements"?
     
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  6. Jeff Hamilton

    Jeff Hamilton Member

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    "Did you try "Avoid Crossing Outline for Travel Movements"?
    No I don't believe I have seen that setting.

    I printed the same item in PLA and it printed great. I went back and looked at the PLA examples and the surface is smooth. I changed to Nylon because of its properties and I'm happy with everything except the surfaces of the face of the tweezers. The funny part is the ooze is almost in a straight line in the middle. I decided removing it with an exacto knife was the easiest thing to do. I did do several searches and did not find anything that looked like the problems I was having, that is why I thought it could be a machine setting issue. Maybe next weekend when I have some more time I will try and and see if I can fix what is wrong. Had my Robo almost a year a year now and I am very happy with the machine and how it works.
     
  7. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    I just started printing with Alloy 910 and I have to say it is actually a fairly easy filament to print. I would come close to say it's as easy as PLA! Just finished 2 Deprime Tests and now printing an actual part! Still experiencing some stings between the towers of the Deprime and I probably need to slightly adjust the print speed for small layers to allow it to cool but it's printing away now! Currently printing my Wall Mount design to hold my Longboards!

    If you want post the file you are trying to print and I can slice in S3D to see if I receive the same issues as you. Is it a file you created yourself or found on thingverse (similar website)? You may want to try and run the file through netfabb to see if that is the issue. But you were able to print in PLA with no issues, so I don't see that being the cause.

    Attached is my Alloy 910 FFF file (after the 2 Deprimes) for you to take a look at.
     

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  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    910 is one of my favorites particularly when I need more strength and wear than PLA.
     
  9. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    I'm definitely liking it as well! Plus its clear which is pretty cool. And it won't take away from the graphic on the bottom of my longboards. Kind of excited to test out the strength!

    Would you mind posting up your FFF file so I could take a gander at it? Think I may need to adjust my retraction settings a little. Currently set at 3mm retraction but I'm thinking may need to be more.

    Do you have an issue with it oozing after a print has finished? Or do you retract a bunch with ending script? I get about an inch long string after each print, so far anyways. It also seems to take quite a while for the filament to start flowing during the skirt. During a Deprime print the filament just started to flow towards the end of the 2nd outline skirt.

    I think I got temps pretty decent at 50C (bed) and 235C (extruder) though. I'll post a couple pics when the print is finished.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Older one (from Simplify 2.x) but I haven't changed it much -- if any.
     

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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Ooze is not uncommon with many of the nylon blends (and Alloy910 is a blend of nylon I imagine -- it is very similar). Taulman is a bit closed-mouth on exactly what sort of copolyester it is.
    Bump retraction.
     
  12. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Thanks! My FFF was very similar just increased retraction mm and decreased extruder temp. Everything else was basically the same or similar besides nozzle size and layer height obviously! I initially thought 3mm retraction was going to be alot but looks like I will try increasing even more. On Taulman website, they recommend 3-5mm retraction I believe.
     
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  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Ryan TeGantvoort I am going to try your FFF but I had to strip out all the stuff you had in the scripts tab, I will compare it to the one I currently use. I believe mine is based on @mark tomlinson's FFF with the nozzle size and temp adjusted.
     
  14. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Thanks @WheresWaldo! Excited for the results. My print is going pretty good a little over half way done, but I am seeing a few blobs on the edges with strings attached to them. Printing 2 at once and it looks like it happens every time it moves to the other part. But overall I am pretty happy with it, so far.....
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can try Retraction Vertical Lift -- might help when it switches models.
     
  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Here is the basic difference between what you have and mine.
    alloy_910_fff.png
    Most of the filaments I use end up at an Extrusion Multiplier of 1 or just a hundredth or two up or down.
    alloy_910_script.png
    Much cleaner start up script than all the stuff most people do in that script. The "Additional terminal commands ..." lets the LCD display every layer number as it prints.
     
  17. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    @WheresWaldo so if I add {REPLACE "; layer" "M117 Layer"} in the Additional terminal commands. It displays the current layer number on the LCD? I take it it's overriding the LCD Message and displaying the current layer number there?

    I will try adjusting Extrusion Multiplier and Extrusion Width. But I have had good luck with those numbers for PLA and PLA+. I have seen most people have the Width set to Auto which is the 0.48 you have.

    Should I modify my Starting Script at all? I could move set the Z-offset in firmware but I'm fine with it in the script. I plan on moving to MESH but still waiting for the Official Release! So then I'm sure I will need to make adjustments to it.

    The main differences I see are Multiplier, Width, Retraction, Coast at End, and Wipe Nozzle. I have never really played with Coast at End or Wipe Nozzle, so may try your settings and see if anything changes!

    @mark tomlinson I do have a Retraction Vertical Lift of 0.2mm, could try increasing though.
     
  18. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    I had to look up a few of the gcodes you were using in your starting script though! :)
     
  19. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yeah as the layer changes, it changes the bottom status line display to show the current layer it is on. S3D inserts a comment between each layer change, that code converts the comment to a M117 gcode command

    Don't mess with your settings too much especially if they are close. I have my extruder steps at 800 which is closer to 100 mm extrusion when you request 100 mm, It is not exact but close enough, works much better than the 723.38 steps Robo uses and I think that is why my multiplier is nearer to 1.00.

    It is not perfect, but coasting helps with stringing as the last .2 mm of horizontal movement does not include feeding the hotend, It relies on the backpressure built up to keep flowing. I still think I need to up the coasting value a bit.

    I have given up on the Marlin devs ever having an "Official" release, I think they will have stable releases but nothing I would call finished as they seem to not know how to stop adding new stuff. I haven't and wouldn't wait for the Official, It works real well as it is now.
     
    #19 WheresWaldo, Apr 19, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2017
  20. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Yea I previously calibrated for PLA and received extruder steps at 841 I believe. I should try to request 100mm and see how close it is again. Would it be different for particular filaments? If so, how would you manage that? The coasting sounds like it could definitely be helpful. Gonna give that a try but the print is almost finished, I'll take a few pics to see if you guys have any more input!

    I will try the latest stable release then! Also I see they added a different version of MESH now as well. Gonna have to browse that insanely long thread! Thanks again for all your help.
     

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