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Solved Printing filament that needs more than 210C

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by holmes4, Apr 26, 2017.

  1. holmes4

    holmes4 Member

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    I have been 3D printing since 2012 - the C2 is my fourth printer. While it works very well with PLA, I am running into many issues printing with PETG or other filaments that want a print temp higher than 210. (I use BuildTak as a print surface so I don't need a heated bed.)

    The problem is this - no matter what temperature I set, the printer heats to 210 and draws its priming line at the front of the printbed, then sits there until it reaches the set temp, melting a hole in the plastic printbed! (Not to mention that the filament doesn't extrude well at 210.)

    I can't find any place to adjust this behavior - I've even tried adding an M109 command to the start Gcode, to no effect.

    Is there any way to resolve this?
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, it is in OctoPrint....
    Settings
    Gcode Scripts
    Before print jobs starts:

    ; set to millimeters
    G21
    ; set to absolute mode
    G90
    ; zero extruder
    G92 E0
    ; turn off fans
    M107
    ; home all axis
    G28
    ; probe for bed autolevel plane
    ; G29
    ; pause for 2 seconds
    G4 S2
    ; move bed down 15mm
    G1 Z15 F300
    ; move to front left corner
    G1 X1 Y1 F7200
    ; heat to priming line temp
    M109 S200
    ; move bed to printing position
    G1 Z0.3
    ; print 100mm priming line
    G1 X120 E15.0 F500

    ; zero extruder
    G92 E0
    ; set movement speed
    G1 F7200


    See the lines in BOLD :) That is what you want to change or eliminate.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Mine used to read 210 and I changed it to 200 since we never print that hot anyway (195c normally) which meant it would heat up to print the prime line and then have to cool back down...

    If your nozzle is actually on the plastic though sounds like your z offset may be a little low.
     
  4. holmes4

    holmes4 Member

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    Even 0.2mm up, having the hot nozzle that close to the plastic for a minute or two will melt the bed.

    So this means that if I change back to PLA I have to change that back to 210 or so. Annoying but I can manage. Thanks!
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Like I said we dropped ours to 200 and frankly you can drop it to whatever works.
    We print PLA at 190-195.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Alternatively you could just remove the entire thing (the printing the priming line bit) <shrug> which ever you find easier.
    Since we manually leveled the bed I pulled out the G29; routine as well. Prints start a lot faster :)
     
  7. holmes4

    holmes4 Member

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    I generally print PLA at 210, but 190 seems to work too. Your instructions for changing the Octoprint settings worked - thanks!
     
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  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you get poor interlayer bonding (i.e. if the parts are too fragile and split easily) then bump it. Ours works good in that range with PLA, but everyone has a different environment so print temps are always a crap shoot :)
     

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