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Nylon 910 with Simplify3D

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Jeff Hamilton, Jan 14, 2017.

  1. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    The new MESH is called Uniform Bed Leveling, U.B.L. for short and it is a very ambitious project that is basically being driven by a single dev. It has potential for being great, but there are just too many manual steps involved, many of which are counter-intuitive, to get it right. I am sticking with MESH for the time being and I use a 36 point grid (6 x 6) to level the bed.
     
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  2. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Sorry I didn't get the photos up last night, I was having issues with the SD card in the camera at work. Here they are, turned out pretty decent I would say.
     

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  3. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Is there enough room on the build plate to move them away from each other, and choose the option to print one object complete before moving to the next object?
     
  4. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    @daniel871 Yeah that would be an option, or just simply printing 1 at a time.
     
  5. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    The blobs/zits were super easy to remove with my exacto knife though so not too worried about it. The letters on the front actually turned out pretty good which I was a little nervous about, even though you can barely read it lol!
     
  6. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    I'm an advocate of only printing one object at a time, unless you're talking about a ton of tiny objects that have enough space between them for the "Print one at a time" option to be checked.

    The failure chance just gets too high when you do multiple objects where the printer is hopping to each object every layer, especially if the printer isn't enclosed/in an stable enough environment.
     
  7. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    So I finally got these hung on the wall, went to put my longboard on them and everything seemed fine. Until I went back into that room a few moments later and my longboard was literally about to fall off! The amount of Flex of the Alloy 910 seems to be way too much for this project or I need to design a different way. I printed them out of PLA+ and I will see how they hold up.

    It was pretty crazy though....after I removed the longboard from the hooks, I went back into that room a few minutes later and the hooks were already back to their normal shape! But I still don't think Alloy 910 is a good material for this design. I don't really want to be woke up in the middle of the night to a longboard falling right next to my bed!

    Would PCTPE be a better solution or worse? I have yet to touch the roll I just got.

    I have been wanting to try some PETG so maybe now is the time.
     
  8. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Issues with the text but honestly could care less!
     

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  9. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Can you take a picture of how you intend to hang the parts? I'm having a bit of trouble imagining exactly what you are doing.

    EDIT: This was before your post with photos popped up.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    BluPrint if this is going to be hot. Otherwise PETG is a fine choice.
    Alloy910 is a really good nylon based filament, but -- nylon. Some flex is a given :)
     
  11. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Is there any particular reason for those parts to have a square bottom vs. making it a long, looping/hook shape?

    And yeah, PETG is going to be pretty stiff regardless, but structurally that square shape bothers me in anything plastic. The corners will be the weakest part of the whole thing, and anything sufficiently heavy is going to cause it to flex/bend and it'd be better if there was an arc of some kind.

    Maybe add a shallow gusset-like shape to the bottom (maybe 20 degrees off from the flat, maintaining the original thickness at the outer tip) to rest against the wall and support the arm.
     
  12. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    They are each screwed into a stud 16" OC with the 1 hole on top and then the longboard rests on them horizontally. Basically from what I gathered after putting it on the hooks the first time, all the wait is being applied to the support with Sector9.

    Similar to the picture attached but a longboard (cruiser style) instead of a skateboard. This was what I designed mine off of actually, just made them easier to print. Keep in mind my longboard probably weighs twice as much as one of those skateboards.
     

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  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Maybe just thicken and taper the base* a bit?
    Random thought :)

    *under the board not against the wall
     
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  14. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Yea after I printed them and was looking them over I realized I should have used more of a "U" shape instead of the flat bottom like you stated @daniel871 that would have increased the strength quite a bit. But I feel Alloy 910 still is not the right filament for this application anyways. Not saying its a bad filament or anything because I actually really like it!
     
  15. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Quick & Dirty not-to-scale sketch to illustrate what I'm talking about above.
     

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  16. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    My other longboard wall mount I built out of Sheet Metal because the graphic is vertical instead of horizontal. Designed closely to this attached image, but simplified. I might just Mill some parts for the Horizontal Long Board if the PLA+ ones don't work.
     
  17. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    thats a very good minor rev @daniel871 , definitely be stronger but I think it would still flex too much on the "right" of the design with Alloy910. That's where all the weight of the longboard is sitting.
     
  18. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Nah, that was with PETG in mind.

    You could always print in PLA and bake it in a large toaster oven @200F for a while and try it after it cools down.
     
  19. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    PLA+ version I printed is working just fine!
     

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  20. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Printing some of our End Effectors for our Material Handling Robot out of Alloy 910 right now. Some stringing going on but that's fine. I'm getting some curling issues on a few corners though? Increase Bed Heat? Currently at 45c. I am going to print some new Herringbone Gears with Allot 910, and I would prefer this not to happen when I print those!
     

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