Glass build plate for C2

Ideally the firmware test points would not be close enough to "see" those. You might could tweak the firmware to adjust the sample points if you really wanted to.

 

With regard to moving the bed after the print is done, you have two ways of doing it. One way is to include Gcode in your slicer that is appended to the end of the sliced model. MatterControl calls this End G-Code and it is in the Custom G-Code section of the Printer settings. Cura calls it End G-code and it is under Settings/Printer menu Manage Printers then Machine Settings. In Simplify3D you have to edit the process and look at the Scripts tab and they call it Ending Script. Note that if it is included in any of these places it is added to every single model you slice with that profile.

The second way to execute ending g-code is to have OctoPrint do it for you. You have to connect to your printer via a browser then go into Settings and choose GCODE Scripts there is where you will find a script for After print job completes. Note that OctoPrint also allows different scripts to run After print job is cancelled or paused or resumes, etc.

One thing to note, if you embed your ending script in the model then it will only execute if the print completes successfully. OctoPrint give you more control when things aren't successful. That said I personally use the embedded ending code as my first assumption is that all my prints will be successful, I leave the After print job completes section blank within OctoPrint. But if I have to cancel a job I let OctoPrint handle moving the bed and turning off the heaters.

 

Are you going to heat the bed sometime in the future?

 

@colton81 Ali Brothers Rubber is recommended by a lot of open source printer designers and builders, I have bought from them a couple of times and they will custom size a heater for you if you need it.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/709519

Something like this might work.

Also why salvage magnets, they are cheap. 8mm x 3mm Neodymnium in bulk from Banggood.com, Slightly weaker and smaller batch from Amazon.

 

You can figure it out backwards, The C2 control board is a customized RAMPS clone (They moved a bunch of stuff around). If it has a similar power section there are two ways to go, RAMPS has an 11A limit @ 12V for the Heater, 12V x 11A = 132W max. You don't really want to drive that much power through it, so derate it by 25% to be safe and you still have 100W to play with. Just as an FYI 100W is just a few watts less than the heater the R1 uses and is still a lot of power for such a small bed. The second way requires more electronics but can draw more power if needed and that is using an SSR (but this is overkill for the C2.

Since @mark tomlinson has torn apart the C2 completely maybe you can look at his thread to see how you might wire it up.

I have a drawer full of magnets in a bunch of sizes because they are good for a ton of uses not just for 3D printers. From China (where almost all of the rare earth metals used in these magnets comes from anyway) they are cheap. Banggood has a rather large selection of sizes and shapes, all cheap and even some in their US warehouse.

 

Look at these:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New...Rare-Earth-Neodymium-Magnets/32636274764.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Pow...ersunk-Magnet-Rare-Earth-Neo/32627742477.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Who...-Earth-Neodymium-ring-Magnet/32658725823.html

Those might fit the ball joint magnets that Robo uses, take some measurements

 

These too:

https://www.banggood.com/20-x-10mm-...are-Earth-Neodymium-N35-Magnets-p-924002.html

https://www.banggood.com/5pcs-N50-2...ole-Rare-Earth-Neodymium-Magnet-p-979047.html

https://www.banggood.com/20pcs-N35-15x5mm-Magnets-Neodymium-Round-Magnets-p-1103063.html


I never measured the ball or socket to see what size they actually are

 

Looks like the ball is 8mm
So that first banggood linked one is close at 10mm