Replacement for Build Plate

Since Robo doesn't look like they are ever going to get the glass beds in stock for people out of warranty to order, I was wondering if anyone had successfully used the GeckoTek Build plate/Magnetic Base combo? Any info would be greatly appreciated as my bed has been shattered for a few months.

 

I had read through some of the replacement homemade beds that people are making. I have been using a piece of glass cut to the bed dimensions to put over my bed since it was broke in the middle and can kinda still be used. But, this isn't a real good solution. The aluminum bed thread peaked my interest. But, with his trouble with the heaters; I was looking for beds that were already made for the Robo which is why i was asking about the GeckoTek bed over the stock replacement bed/homemade beds.

 

Info on alternatives are always welcome!
I've seen (read) where there were no beds available in stock but a phone call got one sent out. Give it a try.

 

I just put a GeckoTek bed and plate on mine after chipping the 2nd glass bed (PolyMax PLA sticks too well....)

Install on a stock RoBo would probably be easier than my clone, the Y-axis ends with the magnets did not line up perfectly, so I had to modify them a bit.

They warn you that the RoBo has limited power, so the heater takes a long time to get up to temp, supposedly they will offer a 24V upgrade kit soon. I have a feeling I can just wire a 24V power supply to the bed via an SCR on the RAMPS.

The plate system is pretty neat, I like that I can flex the plate to pop the print off, no scraper needed.
The only modification I needed to do was set S3D to print the brim (purge) to a few layers tall so it pops off too, the first one stuck too well and my fingernail took damage.

MicroCenter locally carries the replacement plates for $15 each, so if I do mess one up, I am only out $15 versus the $60 plus I was paying for replacement glass.

 

I cant tell what type of hot plate is under the cork on this thing, looks like a typical PCB, but arent most PCB style plates set up to be either 12V or 24V not both? (Thought you had to solder the wire on the correct pad for each voltage)

Is there a way to test that? (Besides the "smoke test")

 

Polarity wont matter as it is a resistive load, but I know some beds have 3 terminals. (1 + 2 for 12V, 2 + 3 for 24V)
This one came glued to the GeckoTek system and is covered in cork, so I cant tell exactly what it is.
I have contacted GeckoTek for info, as I truly believe their upgrade kit is just an SCR and a power brick.
But yeah, if I do smoke it, I can always peel the glue off and grab a 24V or 120V rated pad.

 

Hi Mark. I see your name on most anything Robo3D. Do you know of the best Build plate replacement for my Robo r1+? I tried plate glass from Home Depot and it broke after my first print. It was a heat related break. I would really just like to buy one I can plug in but i'm savvy enough to make one but need to know what parts to buy and where?

 

The glass door on a lot of toaster ovens is 10" x 15" which fits perfectly over your existing glass bed. I have two of these glass doors. One is a spare, and the other has been in use for over a year. The original glass bed has a chip in the middle, and a small piece missing on the outer corner. Toaster oven glass doors appear to be much tougher than the bed which comes with the printer. I use a putty which is similar to Funtak to keep the glass in place without binding clips or tape.