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E3d Titan Aero mod

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by buttabean, Apr 16, 2017.

  1. buttabean

    buttabean New Member

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    Upgrade success!

    I wouldn't go try printing this carriage just yet. There's a few issues that I need to resolve with the current design.

    1) wiring clips under the carriage for the heater cartridge and a clip on the left side for the thermistor and heater wires would be nice as well.

    2) the heater block can't rotate to loosen and tighten it in the current rendition. So I need to resolve that.

    3) add a zip tie hole in the fan holder to hold the wiring harness.

    4) I didn't realize when I was designing the placement for the extruder that the extruder hotend is actually off center. This causes your print area to shift about an inch to the right. The nozzle just makes the edge of the bed on the right side with a millimeter to spare. On the left side you have about 2 inches unused. It would be nice to be able to use that left side be moving the wiring path to either the back or front. Possibly a clip on a cooling fan housing? Will that effect the Z axis as it gets near the top? That I'll have to check.

    5) current version needs a longer screw to hit the x carriage micro stop.

    6) I had to use a set of M3 25mm screws to bolt the extruder together as the stock ones were too long. I didn't realize this and I bound the motor thread on one. I see the aero comes with 30mm so I'm assuming i used 25mm because I can't remember off the top of my head. I bought these a set of m3 bolts on amazon. they came in handy for the x micro switch as well. you'll need m3 nuts to bolt the titan mount to the carriage

    I also purchased rods from that store after talking to the store owner for a bit. He offers custom cuts which I thought was very cool and was the reason I purchased from him. He's apparently an avid 3d printer enthusiast and is looking to sell his own reprap design called a bigbot in the near future. He addressed all my questions and I felt it was a good way to support a fellow printer enthusiast who appreciates a place to get consistent quality parts from.

    With that said... I ended up not using the rods lol because the stock ones fit better in the Z carriage. I didn't feel like modifying their housing. I just wanted to get it up and running at this point. And since the lmuu linearing bearings fit the robo x rods perfects without any slack on the rods I figured I'd keep them for now. The rods he did provide definitely feel heavier and had a noticeable quality improvement over the robo ones. I would have used that but I was dealing with a alignment issues with my x carriage bearings because my tolerances on my robo weren't very good when printing the carriage. So the Robo rods had a larger tolerance over the purchased rods.

    I used these linear bearings PDTech on amazon

    I also installed a vibration dampener on the x axis stepper. I plan to put one on the Z as well.
     

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    #1 buttabean, Apr 16, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2017
  2. buttabean

    buttabean New Member

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    First thoughts...

    no more nozzle movement. This thing just plows through the plastic like it's nothing! It wouldn't budge! I was over extruding a lot the first few prints and it wouldn't clog. I was very surprised by that when I saw this.

    It's much quieter at high speeds. With the stock extruder I would get a terrible vibration when going too fast. I think it was the ptfe tube vibrating against the filament.

    Heat sink is cool to the touch @ 240c. The hotend fan does not vibrate like it did with the v6.

    The green donut is a trispinner printed with a 0.8mm nozzle @ 0.2mm layer height at roughly 120mm/sec

    I also installed a micro swiss heat break to replace the e3d one.


    I'm currently trying to update the firmware but it doesn't seem to be taking the settings even though I've updated the extruder rotations. I was looking through the titan thread but it was such a mess. I couldn't find what I was looking for. Is there a command I need to type into the communication window for it to update after uploading the firmware?
     
  3. buttabean

    buttabean New Member

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    This was from the same print. No cooling as I don't have any lol. I'm impressed that printed that well with a 0.8mm nozzle. Makergeeks pla
     

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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The larger nozzles have a small impact on overall quality really. It seems counter-intuitive, but it is difficult to see that difference on a printer that is working correctly and on larger models in particular.

    Makes it nice to print a lot faster too :)
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    If you are using any modified firmware make sure you dump the contents of EEPROM imediately after uploading firmware and before testing any modifications. In some versions of firmware EEPROM is enabled and any setting stored there will supersede anything you modify in the firmware source.

    M502
    M500
     
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  6. Doncrush

    Doncrush New Member

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    what carriage did you print? From Thingiverse? on a robo r1+?
     
  7. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    The Z moves so little compared to X and Y that I doubt you will hear much difference with a dampener on the Z. May want to try the Y though.
     
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  8. Doncrush

    Doncrush New Member

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    I have spend the better part of this afternoon trying to solve the Aero on Robo R1 challenge...and @MChrisP1 helped me give up on it...I saw a couple of ways of mounting, but after that I couldn't see any good solution for a parts cooling fan...
     
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  9. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    It's not for every printer. At least you gave it a shot.
     
    #9 danzca6, May 18, 2017
    Last edited: May 19, 2017
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  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I did the ole eyeball on the robo and decided against it. Mine will likely go on the CR10 or gmax, they have ample room on the carriage for the additional items. The robo is just...to compact for a compact hotend? lol
     

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