1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Delay In Extrusion (Nylon)

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Shaun, May 22, 2017.

  1. Shaun

    Shaun New Member

    Joined:
    May 22, 2017
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    1
    Hi All Newbie here., I tried using the search but coming up with blanks, I recently purchased a Robo R1 Plus 3D printer, all was going well testing out prints with the PLA that came with the kit.

    The idea was to move onto Nylon..... I would appreciate any help i can get on the matter.

    Im having an issue with a delay during extrusion.. (IE if i press the extrude button on the control panel menu the gear rotates around for a few seconds before any nylon starts coming out, this also happens during print which of course

    Ive spanned the recommended temperature range 250-275 and cant seem to get any joy.

    Now ive just switched back to the PLA and that extrudes instantly, im a bit stumped.

    Could anyone recommend anything i could try?

    Cheers in advance.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    You don't say which flavor of nylon, but all nylons have some flexibility, some are more flexible than others. With the GregsWade it will be just as you describe -- a delay when starting to extrude. This is due to the filament compressing in the hotend. I have printed a lot of nylon (it is one of my favorite materials) and if you can tell me which blend it is I can get you some more information on settings.

    You will want to experiment and note what settings work best with each blend.
    A rule of thumb is that it will be hotter and slower than most other filaments.
     
    Geof and Shaun like this.
  3. Shaun

    Shaun New Member

    Joined:
    May 22, 2017
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    1
    Thank you for the response Mark..

    The Nylon im trying to use is found on RS Components Part Number 832-0507

    I've been experimenting a little, the nozzle is defo going to need a proper clean up after this...

    Any pointers would be appreciated..
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    What type of nylon is it?
    230, 618, 645, 680, nylon bridge, something else?

    Every blend has different characteristics. I almost always use Taulman since they provide detailed specs for the materials. I have tried a couple generic "nylon" filament and those were just junk. See if you can figure out which type of nylon you have.
     
    Geof likes this.
  5. Quest

    Quest Member

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2015
    Messages:
    59
    Likes Received:
    9
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    So it is nylon 12:

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nylon_12

    You are not going to have a lot of luck on the Robo with that:

    Processing Temp. 255- 275ºC
    Bed Temp 130ºC+ -- the company you bought it from says "110c or even higher" which is a bit disingenuous :). 'Hotter' indeed....

    That bed temp is not workable. The extrusion temps are rather high ass well. They are reachable if you tweaked the firmware to change MAXTEMP, but still quite high.

    My suggestion would be to:
    1) set the extrusion temp as hot as you can -- 275c would be great
    2) set the bed temp as hot as you can (110c is the practical max, but most firmware limits it to less)
    3) print as slow as you can. Drop the print speeds by a lot, start by reducing them by 50%

    Don't get put-off of nylon by this stuff. It is a rather odd-ball one and starting with that just makes it harder :)
    Let me know what properties of this nylon are you really looking to leverage and we can probably help choose something else to try if you can't get this to work well. All of the others I mentioned I have used (although 230 sux IMHO... avoid it since it is hard to get sorted too)
     
    MaxGause likes this.
  7. Shaun

    Shaun New Member

    Joined:
    May 22, 2017
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    1
    Thanks for the reply Mark.

    I dont think i have an issue with the temperatures, i can get it to extrude between 250-265 and if its doing a long constant such as a skirt it sticks like it should.

    the problem seems to be the delay in extruding.

    I press extrude, the gear starts to turn, a few seconds later the filament is extruded, the gear stops and then filament continues to extrude with the gear stopped.

    This is without me touching the bed.. If its not stopping and starting as required i dont know how it can print accurately as it jumps between perimeters, infills, supports, etc etc it need to stop and start the flow pretty accurately??

    Possibly it is a heating issue?? its not melting fast enough to be used??
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Yep, that is the flexible part of it. Compression into the extruder and then it continues extruding after the gears top to relieve the pressure.

    It is possible that it will print better at a higher temperature, it is safe to say with that range of values you are probably good to try it all the way to 280c (I have tried one blend that wanted 310c so.... it is not unheard of to need more heat). Some blends are the opposite of PLA/ABS in that they get stringy when too cold (rather than too hot).

    You need to slow down the print speeds as well to help account for the fact that is is extruding slower and reacting slower. I would as I suggested earlier drop them by 50% for a start and see how low you really have to go.
     
  9. Shaun

    Shaun New Member

    Joined:
    May 22, 2017
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    1
    Thanks again for your reply Mark,,

    After the mess i made in the trials i dont think im going to try anything on a the bed until i can get reasonable results from the manual Extrusion Button.

    What is the actual rated upper temperature of the Robo?

    Do you get these issue's with Nylon?? If not would you be able to suggest a brand of nylon that maybe a little more "user" friendly.

    Im in the UK, ideally we are wanting to use the nylon for mechanical parts (Ie my current requirement is a connector housing, which is designed and prints very well in PLA,, i just feel that PLA may not be any use outside of prototyping??)

    Thanks again for your support.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    The limit of the thermistor :) Somewhere just north of 300C

    You can certainly go as high as 400C (but you need to swap to a thermocouple).
    We have one dedicated to higher temp prints.

    Every blend of nylon is a little different in terms of best settings, but we have had best results with Taulmans filament as they are very clear on exactly which blend you are getting and what the properties for it are.

    Another issue you could have is that it could be 'wet' and nylon becomes almost unusable if it absorbs moisture from the air. Keep is stored with desiccant when not in use.

    Try Alloy910 from Taulman. We use that on most outdoor components and devices that will be in rather harsh conditions (like saltwater air).
     
  11. Shaun

    Shaun New Member

    Joined:
    May 22, 2017
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    1
    Hi Mark,

    I will try to go up a few degree's and see if that helps.

    The filament was straight out of the sealed pack yesterday so i dont think thats an issue.

    Ive found a site that sells "sample" packs including the Alloy 910, so ill give it a try and see if its a better print.

    Ill keep you informed.

    Thanks for your help.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    It so very much depends on the vendor. I have tried a few of the other vendors 'nylon' with less than impressive results, some of them were just never produced or stored correctly and I didn't want to waste time trying to dry the filament.

    It could just be the nature of nylon-12 as well -- I have not used that blend so I can't speak authoritatively on exactly how it should behave :) Most of the blends do behave in similar ways though. I really think at this point it is just a matter of learning how nylon-12 works, you probably have good filament.
     
  13. Shaun

    Shaun New Member

    Joined:
    May 22, 2017
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    1
    Hi Mark, Just to update you

    seem to be having exacatly the same problem, there is a noticable delay between extrusion and filament leaving the tip, plus filament coming out after the gear has stopped.

    So i just let it print, ensuring the model was secure to the base to it wouldnt get ripped up as per a previous attempt.

    Which worked quite well, quite a bit of stringing but managable.

    So i went back to the Black Nylon 12 and let that run, again quite severe stringing but it did seem to print... Although it was a very rough print (even when set at fine)

    Maybe i was reading too much into the extrusion delay??
     

    Attached Files:

    mark tomlinson likes this.
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Possibly. Since it is nylon it will be compressible and that will cause a bit of a delay.
    As I think I said -- hot and slow are the two general rules for nylon :)

    As an exact opposite to normal (PLA/ABS) if it is stringing a lot try a bit hotter and see if it get better or worse.
    Some nylon blends actually string worse when too cool.

    It is a terrific material, but not suitable for everything :) Glad you made progress.
     
    Geof likes this.
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    IMO nylons are one of the hardest materials to print correctly (expecially in our non enclosed robos) but once you get it dialed in save those settings! Take pictures of them, write them down in a book whatever you need to do to make sure youll always have them otherwise you'll do this all over again! :D (yes I was silly and didn't do this lol, lots of time wasted retuning everything)
     

Share This Page