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Print Bed Adhesion

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Echoshard, Jun 3, 2017.

  1. Echoshard

    Echoshard New Member

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    Hi,

    So I have been making attempts to print with the R2 for most of the night however I am having issues getting it to adhere to the bed. I already ordered some BuildTak but I was hoping just to print on the headed bed.

    I am printing PLA at 200c the build plate is set to 55 degrees.

    My bed Z offset is 5.8 I am currently redoing it after every failed print.

    Brims/Rafts seem to help but the printer then gets caught and rips the entire print off after 2-3 layers Anyone else having this problem?
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    First guess is your first layer isn't close enough, try adjusting it.
     
  3. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    On thing I'm pretty much going to miss from my "old crappy printer" is that it was an open design so everything was accessible - and instead of messing with Z calibrations forever I'd just print stuff with a skirt and manually turn the Z rod to get a "slightly squeezed" first layer while it was printing and be done with it.
     
  4. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    Are you performing the Z-Offset Wizard AND the Fine Tune Offset Wizard? Because you need to do both. The first gets you close enough so you can then perform the latter.

    1. Connect the printer to WiFi.
    2. Update the printer's software over WiFi (mine needed updating).
    3. With the update you'll now have a "Fine Tune Offset Wizard" in the Utility section.
    4. First, run the Z-Offset Wizard.
    5. Next, run the Fine Tune Offset Wizard. It prints a straight line. Use the up/down buttons to move the bed as needed. It then prints another line. Repeat adjustments until you have a semi-compressed line. I used a plastic stylus to nudge the printed line each time. If it's not sticking, jog the bed up slightly and test again.
    6. Press Save.
    My Fine Tune Offset ended up being -7.60
     
    #4 Ed Ferguson, Jun 3, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2017
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  5. pclabtech

    pclabtech Active Member

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    I think your Fine tuning Z-axis is too close, the reason your objects are coming undone from the build plate is because the head is too close to the print object and causes the printed item to get "dragged" by the extruder tip. I have had this happen twice now, so I adjusted the "Z axis" bed down and stopped that from happening.

    Have faith that the coating on the glass will be enough adhesion to keep the print job on the build plate. I use a 7.75z (I was using an 8.2 before they added the fine tuning option, and my base layer was all squiggly.

    Good luck!
     
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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Just bear in mind that all of the final Z offset numbers will be slightly different. The tolerances on things are not that tight :)
    Just find that number that works best for you.
     
  7. Echoshard

    Echoshard New Member

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    Ok after much effort I was able to get parts to adhere correctly. Lowering the bed temp to 55 did wonders. Apparently the somehow the build plate was wildly off kilter.

    In the end, I am now able to print without a raft see here.

    upload_2017-6-5_10-15-30.png

    I will write something up on my print settings later.
     
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  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good work.
    I manually leveled my C2 and no longer use a raft either.
    Of course, the C2 is such a small bed that the effort involved in leveling it is far, far less.
     
  9. jwmueller

    jwmueller Active Member

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    Glad to see you are not having to print with a raft anymore, I personally hate using them. My R2 will arrive on Wednesday, so fun to get up to speed on all the comments here. Thanks!

    What is the R2 bed made out of? Is it PEI or something else?
     
  10. pclabtech

    pclabtech Active Member

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    I believe it is a glass PEI mix. It's glass for sure, but you can scratch it easy with your putty scraper, and you can feel it when you run your hand across it (not smooth like glass)
     
  11. jwmueller

    jwmueller Active Member

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    I can get my fingernail under the plate, so not glass as we now know from the other thread. I just can't figure out what the tape is, I just cleaned it with a clean cloth and some acetone. It was quite dusty from shipping. Then 90% alcohol to finish it off, and even with that I could still see the cloth was picking up dirt.

    Ran a few test prints and adhesion was fine (Prusa PLA). Running one of my normal products in Essentium PLA now, around 10 solid layers so far without any issues. Will try ProtoPasta PETG next, and the MakerGeeks PETG. Should be a 9-hour print, although Octoprint is telling me 16 hours. ;)
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The tape might be the same as the black bed tape the C2 uses (at a wild-assed-guess)
     
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