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R2 Bed - can you use tape?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Geof Auchinleck, Jun 3, 2017.

  1. Geof Auchinleck

    Geof Auchinleck New Member

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    With my R1 I use blue painters tape with some types of filament to get good adhesion/release - can I use tape on the R2 bed? I'm concerned that the IR Z-Axis sensor wont work properly if I put something on top of the existing bed.

    BTW - kudos to Robo on this machine: Fantastic packaging design (survived being delivered upside down by DHL) and a pleasure to unpack. After a few hicups (user error) my first print is running and looks great.
     
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  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I don't see why not, but I believe there is already a pei like sheet on the bed
     
  3. Geof Auchinleck

    Geof Auchinleck New Member

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    I'll give it a go and post an update when I see how it works.
     
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  4. jwmueller

    jwmueller Active Member

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    I used glass! Link
     
  5. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    Geof - The R2 PEI surface adheres almost too well. Tape is not needed. PS - Don't print a raft unless you're willing to arm wrestle with the part.
     
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  6. Pilsnerboy

    Pilsnerboy New Member

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    Geof, I'm curious how this way of yours turned out.
     
  7. jwmueller

    jwmueller Active Member

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    I am curious as well, I had some glue stick a bit too thick and it did not seem to like that, so I cleaned the bed and used spray and it went fine. I did not retest for accuracy... LOL
     
  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I've recently swapped from glue stick to diluted elmers glue (with water) and it works fantastic! Brush it on lightly with a paint brush and on with your day! (keep in mind I only do this when I use glue, most times I print directly on PEI with my Prusa)
     
  9. jwmueller

    jwmueller Active Member

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    So the bed is as follows:

    PCB (2mm thick)
    Aluminum inner core with countersunk screws under those metal things on all four corners. ~3mm thick
    This core holds the main plastic ring, not clear if the PCB is bonded in place or just help by the plastic ring.
    Thin metal plate on top with the PEI, around 1mm to 1.2mm thick.
    Inner core is around 9" square, give or take some rounding back to mm.

    So it would be possible to service the PEI, probably in the Prusa type manner. The plate would probably be bent to heck and back trying to remove it fully. I would go after just the PEI itself.

    Once I get my machine back from support I would actually like to buy a second plate so I can fully take it apart for a proper glass mod. Have the glass directly contact the inner core.
     

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