R2 Bed Temp

Ah, I see, interesting! So it's basically a choice between:

• Disable the startup code in the external slicer: this means a faster startup, but you have to stick to the default temps.
• Keep the startup code in the external slicer: this results in a slower startup where the printer first goes to the default temps, and only then moves to the ones you set.

Does that sound about right?

 

Oh, that's an option too? Cool, sounds like what I'll go for once I get my R2, then! Probably less wasted plastic on startup as well.

 

Sgomes - I use Simplify3D with the Robo R2.

In Simplify3D I set the Per-Layer Temperature Setpoint for Layer 1 and above to 190. I have no Start Code in Simplify3D.

So even though the Robo OctoPrint startup script preheats the hotend to whatever temperature preset is defined in the OctoPrint settings / start code, the temperature changes to 190 when the slicer's GCode begins the print.

So as Mark stated, the slicer has no start code and the Robo OctoPrint start code is used instead. And as Waldo stated, the printing temperature is defined by the slicer. And the nice thing is I can set up multiple "Processes" in the slicer so the temperature or layer height, for example, can change at a specified layer.

 

I just bumped up a print to 105C 37% into it, probably just fused the PLA to the plate... Took 6 minutes to go from 60C to 94.8C, set it back down after that. It has now cooled back down to 62 in the span of typing this post. I used the touch screen to change it, the stylus really does help.

I plan to design a nice styli holder.

 

So,
How did you get it past 80°c?

I can set it to 90°, but it will top at at 80°


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I did it during an active print through the touchscreen options.

 

I was also having this issue and then I cranked the B value in the EEPROM up to 30000 as someone suggested and it starts to print at around 79.3 degrees.

Anyone with an R2 though, does your print bed take about 20 minutes to get up to around 75 or 80 degrees as well? I'm not sure if this is normal or not.

 

It's been a while since this thread was active, so I'll just throw in my 2 cents. Yes, my R2 takes a while to get from ambient to 80 or 90 (at least 20 minutes). Even if I preheat the bed, that damn auto bed-leveling routine will kill 30 degrees off the preheat temp no matter what I do. And I always make sure the bed and extruder are stabilized at temp before printing starts, so it takes a while to start an ABS print (85 C).

I have been able to get my bed up to 90C, but I cannot go any higher. Seems like the problem can be fixed using EEPROM settings though (I didn't know that). However, if I ever do have to go above 90C, I'll make a hood for my R2. It would be a lot easier to set and maintain high temps if the entire print volume was enclosed.

 

Mine takes just at 10-mins to reach 70C with a borosilicate bed in place, 3mm. I do preheat the bed before I start a print.

I tried a hood and the heat soak in to the stepper was too much and it reached a point to where PETG on the hobbed gear got soft and failed. With all the plastic around the stepper it has nothing to help, my printer room was at 75F during this test. Just a cardboard top with an 8" square hole, roughly 10" high to not bother the cable. Print failed around 2-hours into things. Even for normal printing I have a heatsink on my stepper as it always gets hotter than my other printers.

 

Hmmmm interesting. I didn't think of that.

At the time I tried high temp prints, I had the original sheet of PEI attached to the bed. I took it off a few days ago and I don't think I'll be using PEI sheets in the future (maaaybe).

I have a couple of questions for you. I apologize, but I'm very interested in any mods/upgrades, regardless. Anyways, may I ask the dimensions of the glass you are using (length and width)? I can only find 8" x 8" glass. Would be nice to get 8.25" x 8.25".

Also, could you upload a pic of the heatsink you are using on your stepper?

 

Change your startup Gcode to include a non-blocking temp set before the auto-levelling (or remove auto-levelling altogether).