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Answered E3D V6 Loose on R1+

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Gripp, Jun 12, 2017.

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  1. Gripp

    Gripp Member

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    I installed a V6 this weekend and when I went to print, I noticed that the whole thing was loose. Loose in the way that you can grab the hot end and easily rotate it. I printed a new quick release, and I'm pretty sure everything is tightened down on the carriage. Any ideas on a fix?
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    What quick release did you print? The E3D requires a larger one :D
     
  3. Gripp

    Gripp Member

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    I don't recall off the top of my head, but it was a file for an e3d v6 quick release. Got it on thingiverse.
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    it should be a snug fit. I'd measure it to ensure its the correct z height (also sanity check your file) You can shim the quick release to make it a tight fit with tape for now to get you printing.
     
  5. Gripp

    Gripp Member

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    Cool. I'll check when I get home. Do you happen to know how high it should be?
     
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I dont recall off the top of my head, but you can measure your slot in your E3DV6 and know for sure :D I dont have any out of machines at the moment.
     
  7. mclemens7

    mclemens7 Member

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    You could just buy one for 5 dollars on Filastruders website, they are an authorized re seller for E3D and I've bought 3 from them and they work great.
     
  8. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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  9. mclemens7

    mclemens7 Member

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    Oh yes that file, I have my own e3d v6 on my printer and printed that file and had the same problem, my hotend was loose, but I'm still using the one I bought from Filastruder today and highly recommend buying it.
     
  10. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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  11. m4r1n5

    m4r1n5 Member

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    I had the same issue. Ended up cutting shims from a dollar store spatula. Works .

    Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
     
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  12. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Same thing can be accomplished by carefully layering HVAC tape on the collar until the fit is snug.

    I did this with some leftover tape on the original R1 after taping the sagging cork down on one of the replacement heat beds I had to buy for it.
     
  13. Gripp

    Gripp Member

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    It was the first link posted. I remember the white filament. I just put some electric tape around the collar and it's tight now. I'll look into the $5 one posted. I adjusted the z-offset but I'm getting some "wobble" on walls that have angles to them as seen in the pic I'll link and I had a rough looking first layer this morning. I have my flow% set to 103 so I'm not sure why it looks like it's under extruding. That said, I haven't had much time to dial in settings.
     

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  14. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    The "wobble" you are describing on the Mario Box, is more than like an Acceleration or Speed issue (could be loose hardware as well). If you have not lowered your Acceleration and Jerk settings in the firmware, that would be a good place to start. I am leaning more towards Acceleration since it seems to happen when changing directions.
     
  15. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    It's going to be pretty much this as the major contributor, with a lesser impact being made either by the belts not being properly tightened on X/Y or the gears said belts run across not being properly tightened.
     
  16. Gripp

    Gripp Member

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    Where in the firmware do I change this (config H?) and what is a good value to start with? I was printing that at like 45mm/s.
     
  17. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Acceleration/Jerk are not the same thing as printing speed.

    Acceleration is how rapidly the printer tries to get to the speed you tell it to print. This is MM per second per second.

    Jerk is how fast the Acceleration can ramp while it approaches the target speed. This is MM per second per second per second.

    So you have 45mm/s print speed, depending on how crazy the stock firmware settings are, you may have the printer assuming it can instantly get to full speed/come to a stop (when in reality it should be taking a couple seconds to do so smoothly).

    I don't know what the current values are in configuration.h, but I do remember them being pretty ridiculously high in the old stock Robo firmware.

    My knockoff chinese i3 printer has acceleration set at 300 and Jerk at 8. It slows overall print times a bit, but I never have any janky surfaces.

    @WheresWaldo may know off the top of his head where these are in configuration.h, but if you do a Find search for "Acceleration" you should pretty quickly find the section where those values are defined for each axis (and the notes are pretty clear about how they are defined as well IIRC).

    EDIT: A somewhat better illustration of Jerk vs. Acceleration can be read here (the next section about consideration of Jerk in Manufacturing also applies):

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerk_(physics)#In_motion_control
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The default accel values for the Robo R1 are LSD derived.
    They are like 9000 or something crazy.
     
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  19. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Keep in mind my firmware is slightly changed so your line numbers may vary, just use Find...

    A good starting point for the XY Jerk Setting is 20-30% of your print speed.

    Look for this in Configuration.h (Around line 462):
    I believe the stock setting is 17.0. I print at 50mm/s, so 30% of that is 15.0 and it seems to print better.

    Acceleration Settings (Around Line 449):
    These are obviously not the stock numbers (you will want to change them to be similar to what I have)....the stock numbers are absolutely ridiculous.
     
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  20. Gripp

    Gripp Member

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    Just changed these numbers and I'm about to do a test print. The defaults were 9000,9000,100,10000. That's quite the difference.
     
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