Repurposing Pirate3d Buccaneer

So I was one of the 'lucky' few who actually received a printer, about 2 years after funding the kickstarter. I have managed to print some nice things, but also have had to overcome multiple issues with freezing, jamming of filament, and general flakiness.

Well, the motor controllers (A4988 based) have finally given up the ghost after the y axis home switch broke. Since they're integral to the closed source motherboard, I've decided to try retrofitting the mechanics with the RepRap/Mega/Ramps1.4/Marlin controller.

Although the build volume is rather small, I've been quite happy with the print quality at 200, 100 and 50 micron resolutions. The XY hbot configuration is solidly built, so this will be my system for small hi-res pieces.

I imagine there are a few other orphaned Buccaneers out there, so I'm hoping that documenting the pinouts and adjustments needed to get the Buccaneer mechanics working with Marlin will be usefull to someone!

I've just finished deciphering the pinout of the 16-pin extruder ribbon cable so I can make a breakout adaptor for the Ramps. Here's the list:
1. X axis limit switch (NC)
2. Ground
3. Stepper black (coil A)
4. Stepper green (coil A)
5. Stepper blue (coil B)
6. Stepper red (coil B)
7. Fan (red)
8. Bed opto sensor Vin
9. Thermistor (reads ~95 kOhm to ground)
10. Bed opto sensor out
11, 12, 13. Nozzle Heater
14, 15, 16. Nozzle heater

I'll post more details as I proceed!
cheers- Scott


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Pretty sure if it's an integrated board that it's either a Melzi, or one of the many, many thousand MKS boards that emulate a Ramps environment.

Post a pic and I can probably point you to a direct replacement that you can then flash Marlin to and reconnect the cables.

 

It's definitely of their own design, though the 'brain' is a Cubie A20 board booting off a custom memery chip. I'll post a pic tonight, but its a tightly closed system as they sold it- WiFi access only; through their custom software (iOS or PC). They tried to make it as dumb as possible- only options are resolution, infill and support/base type. No extruder temp control nor speed control; no pause/restart.


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Sounds like they tried to mimic the system on a Malyan M200/Monoprice Maker Select Mini and failed.

You'll have to verify a lot of things before running an Arduino/Ramps setup on their hardware. Like, are all of the stepper motors Nema17? Are they 1.8-degree or 0.9-degree steppers? Are they even all the same?

Then comes the headache of calibrating steps-per-millimeter for each stepper after calibrating the stepper drivers to actually move the steppers, then committing that information to the firmware.

Then calibrating PID for the hotend and making sure your pinouts are correct for the cooling fans.

Not major issues if only one of them were the only thing you had to worry about. But slogging through all of that to hack in another controller is going to take a long time.

Is that worth your time? If it were me I'd throw the dead machine out and invest in another one I knew worked.

 

Here's the top of the board. Looks like an Atmega128 is actually running the steppers.

I figure if this helps anyone else, its not wasted effort, plus I hadn't dived in this deep before so I'm learning a lot.

I have the Buccaneer motors running already off the Ramps in the coreyx configuration, and you may be right on needing steps/mm calibration- but it appears to be standard timing belt and cogs on the xy and a nice possibly Acme z axis with a nylon nut.


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Huh. Almost looks like a knockoff that mixed characteristics of the RUMBA and RAMBO boards.

Ok. So if you figure out how to configure an Atmega2560 with RAMPS1.4 you'll be "upgrading" the controller. How an Atmega 1284p was expected to run for very long or very well is a mystery to me. Not very much memory available on those boards (though that's probably why they used the 32-bit hackjob board as a band-aid to keep it closed source).

Only thing I'd change hardware-wise would be on that Z-axis--look for a Brass nut to replace the Nylon nut in the proper thread (Nylon will wear out in a hurry, where the right kind of Brass will essentially last forever).

 

hi milw, i am in the same boat. i was given the same printer and also not in working order. i really appreciate the pinout you posted. i found it while trying to get any information about this printer, apparently not many people have them. i ordered an ardunio and ramps kit for this, but i was wondering if you have yours running well? i am wanting to replace the control board with ramps running corexy in marlin.

 

Unfortunately I haven't built the cable converter for the head yet- we also need to work out a mounting method for the control board and a suitable power supply. As shipped the Buccaneer was running off an 18V wall adaptor, so I'm using a PC power supply for the Arduino/ramps 12V input instead. I'm glad you found this though, it gives reason for continuing.

For mounting I think we can drill some holes in the Buccaneers metal motherboard cage, thats probably best for cable management anyway!

 

The spot where the old control board was is probably the best best place to mount it just by looking at it. But I haven't even disassembled mine yet. As for a power supply, I was thinking just a computer power supply. I have a couple laying around and there is plenty of information to convert them. And marlin can actually turn it on and off, so you could leave it plugged in. If I knew how many amps it would draw, I would also consider a wall plug, to make it look cleaner. You can get a 12v 3a one on eBay for 6 bucks. There isn't a heated bed, so it may work, I'm just not sure.

 

Well, the original power supply is rated 19V 4.7A dc, so might want to be rated over 7A at 12V.

Another thought, a breakout board to allow using the original wiring harness might also be worthwhile designing, what do you think?


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ebay also has some 7a power supply for under 10. it looks like the original plugs from the x and y stepper motors and limit switches can plug directly into the ramps board. we could switch individual wires in the stepper plugs if needed. the breakout board would be nice due to the ribbon cable, but i would like to see it working before spending more time and money on stuff. i will probably start with the atx power supply just because i have extra and just plug in the steppers and limit switches directly to ramps. as far as the ribbon cable, i may just use some jumper wires until i can actually verify everything works. then upgrade to cleaner looking power supply and breakout board. mine was given to me and i don't know what exactly is wrong with it. i tested the stepper motors with a multimeter and they seem good. i can't tell about the hot end or thermistor. do you know what kind of thermistor these have? it seems like most printers use a 100k, but if this one does, i don't think mine is working.

 

ive got all the stepper motors and limit switches working and going the right direction and close to steps/mm. i got a new 100k thermistor and it is reading the right temp. i'm trying to use the optical bed sensor, it is working but it triggers about 1cm above the bed. it isn't adjustable from what i can tell and i the only thing in marlin that i can find to account for that is the z probe offset, but that doesn't appear to do anything different. i was wondering if you had any other ideas? this is my first 3d printer, so i am a little new to this.

 

Thank you! M206 is exactly what I was looking for. I'm new to this, but excited about getting it working. I found a guide to get it setup. This is actually the only part I haven't been able to figure out, so far at least. I'll try it as soon as I get a little time again.

 

Thank every one for Help and This is actually very good Idea !! mine was "working"..... as they did but It is so shit and I never been able to print any external STL.

Can you please share picture or drawing of steps done so far to do the migration to the RAMP ?
I will also do So, I have some material but not so much time yet but this week I will give a try and hopefull finish this migration.
If needed I will even replace the extruder for a MK2 or a E3dV6, with a nozzel of 0.2 I this this machine can work again with good precision for small parts.

Do you think there is noway to work on the software side ? To keep all hardware ? Just Wondering.

If you have also a Marlin config , if you can share it I will appreciate a lot =D

Let's do this and then spread the idea because they F*** lot of people and I am sure spreading this workaround will help lot of people
!!

Cheers !!!

 

Yep and Also this could Help : you can look for BucSid
=D

if someone hqve something else

 

I asked them to open source it but no go. You can try logging in to the controller, i got an ssh terminal response but no clue as to user/password.


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yes this was my guess to try the SSH then with admin admin or so commun try, or pirate3d or p3dp....


just some guess, but Then I think the Rerap Stuff with Marlin is our best Option.
I will try to modify but keeping the possibility to go back to Original ..... even if it does not make much sense...