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Horizontal Ridges in ALL of My Parts

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by adikted2astro, Aug 22, 2017.

  1. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    I've done a couple of dozens different prints and every single one of them have these "ridges" on flat surfaces. They oscillate like a sine wave and each one is a few millimeters thick (see below). I've tried changing materials (PLA, PETG, nylon, etc.), colors, temperature settings, I've even auto-tuned the PID controller for the extruder. I've also used different slicing software. None of these have helped. I can only guess that maybe my z-axis worm gear is messed up, or maybe the motor is bad. I really hope someone else out there has had this problem and solved it because it's driving me crazy. These aren't just optical illusions, you can physically feel these ridges in each part. Someone please help................. I can't use these parts unless the walls are smooth. They don't have to be perfect, but better than this. File_000.jpeg File_000 (1).jpeg
     
  2. Eric Albert

    Eric Albert New Member

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    The most likely cause is a bent Z screw - my out of the box R2 had this issue even worse than your prints. I got a replacement and installed it myself and the problem went away. There is another thread with that discussion. I would contact Robo support and show them your pictures.
     
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  3. JeffreyB

    JeffreyB Member

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    That looks like bent/warped X/Y gantry rods. When they spin since the hotend sits on top of these rods it tends to move up and down very slightly causing Z banding. It seems most R2s have shipped with some warped rods. I'm still waiting almost 3 months now for replacements Braydon has promised me. Still nothing...
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Hopefully you are not waiting 'silently' make their phone ring once a week
     
  5. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Well I have examined the gantry rods and the lead screw. I do believe it is the z-axis and not the gantry rods. Does anyone know how long that lead screw is? If I can't get ahold of Robo support (which has been a challenge already), I will just buy a replacement myself. I paid a lot for this printer and I need it to be working now more than ever.
     
  6. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Did you get just the lead screw, or did they send you a replacement motor as well? Either way, do you remember the length? I know it's an 8mm, but I can't accurately measure the length. It seems to be either a 350mm, or 400mm lead screw.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  8. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Thanks Mark. I've already put in a replacement request for a new lead screw/stepper motor combo. However, I really need them to get on their game and send me a replacement ASAP. I bought the printer because I needed it, so this little delay is costing me big time.
     
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I hear you, but that is totally on Robo so make sure you express this to them :)
    Phone, email, passenger pigeons... whatever works best.
     
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  10. Eric Albert

    Eric Albert New Member

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    Took me 2 weeks to get the replacement. My old one is 350mm - the replacement however was a bit longer (1 -2 cm) than the original. The "extra" length was not necessary. The screw is integral with the motor armature and was bent near to the motor.
     
  11. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Damn, I can't wait two weeks. I can buy one online, but I need to make sure the length of the screw is good. I'm fairly certain they used a 350mm screw length in that motor.
     
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    @adikted2astro even if you by online make sure to get your warranty parts. Its under warranty for a reason. I would also not find a lead time of over a few days acceptable and would buy online but would still get my "free part" from my warranty. The key to uptime on any 3D Printer is spare parts.
     
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  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Ditto. I never buy one replacement anything.
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    nope. if I have all the parts on hand I have as close to 100% uptime as possible on a mechanical machine. Some would cringe at the spare parts shelf :D
     
  15. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    No I understand. I will of course still want the replacement from Robo.

    However, I must admit that I'm fairly new to 3D printing. I'm a Mechanical Engineer but have spent very little time on the subject. So, could any of you suggest certain spare parts that I should keep stocked? Extruders, nozzles, etc. I'll buy several of each and make sure they are available all the time.
     
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I stock literally every part for my machines but uptime is a must. To start with on a new machine my general list is :

    Hotend
    Nozzles
    Endstops
    Power Supply
    Bearings


    Then I get into the nitty gritty after some time:
    Steppers (motors)
    Electronics boards (on the R2 this is custom from Robo, I dont know I'd stock it)
    Wiring
    Crimping tools and connectors (JST on most Robo stuff)

    On the R2 some other things would come to mind that I'd want on hand eventually :

    Touch screen
    Raspberry PI
    SD card with preconfigured SD image so I can be up and running if it gets corrupt
     
  17. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    May I ask what hotend you stock? I can't find any hotends on the Robo website that fit the R2, unless their hexagon hotend for the C2 is the same thing. Eventually, I'd like to be able to use other hotends but I don't know much about them yet.
     
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I swap most my printers to E3DV6 or promethius V2 hotends. Both would be a modification to your R2.

    Best thing to do would be get ahold of Robo and tell them you need a hotend under warranty for your R2.
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is with one exception -- the heater core for the R2 is 24v, not 19v.
    You would need to source some generic 24v ceramic heater cores.

    See my thread on the C2 conversion to dual extruder. I have parts linked in there.
     
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  20. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    I've got some new lead screws and a new motor (with another on the way from Robo). However, I really don't want to mess up this printer, so I've been trying to figure out how to replace the z-axis motor/lead screw. From what I can tell, my best bet is to come in through the front, take out the plastic panel holding the motor, unscrew the brass nut from the heated bed, pull the assembly out, then replace the new one in reverse. Can anyone tell me if this is how I should do it?

    I've asked and asked Robo to provide instructions for replacing this lead screw, but I still haven't received a reply.
     

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