Upgrading Extruder on R2

Except for the fact that the R2 uses a (standard) 24v heater core on the hexagon and the C2 uses a (oddball) 19v core you can interchange them. Buy the C2 hexagon and some 24v heater cores from Amazon... or Get a standard hexagon from Amazon with a 24v heater core.

You will want some JST crimpers and connectors You are going to want them at some point anyway.

 

You are speaking of Hotend not Extruder, correct?

 

Me? Yes, if you want to upgrade just the hotend they are largely identical.

 

Hi Steve,
I had concerns upgrading the hotend would put the sensor to far away. You can verify by switching back and seeing it homes without a crash. If yes...move that sensor

 

Yea a new hotend almost always means a new set up. Should be easy enough

 

You would have to do the same redesign if you used a Volcano from E3D-Online. The Volcano places the nozzle 11 mm lower than a standard E3Dv6. From my measurements you should have about 3 to 3.5 mm max to play with regarding length of extruder without having to move the sensor. I haven't looked at the fan setup to see if there is any change needed.

 

indeed. even the V6 is longer then the hex correct?

 

It might be, I haven't checked?

Looks like properly assembled there is a 5 mm difference in the height, with the Hexagon being the shorter of the two.

 

in summary this is why we opted initially to use another hexagon when we added the second extruder on the C2.
Sizes are identical.

I think we can figure out what needs tweaking to use others, I don't doubt that at all

 

I am about 90% done upgrading to an E3Dv6, It is not as easy as just drop in a new extruder. The v6 is bigger around and significantly longer when mounted. If you don't physically modify the extruder then you will have more issues.

The v6 requires a short piece of PTFE tube that extends into the body of the heat sink the Hex does not, the collet on the top of the v6 is wider than opening in the bottom plastic section of extruder assembly, the second section up of that same assembly has a tube molded into the piece that should be removed so you can use a longer piece of PTFE tubing and insert it up to the bottom of the Extruder. The IR sensor is not very sensitive at all on the black bed and needs to be relocated about 5 mm further down so it will trigger on a naked bed. That is where I am at now.

The diameter of a v6 also does not allow the metal cover to stay in place since it cannot contact both magnets. The diameter will also prevent any chance of making this a dual extruder, it just won't fit! Nor will any combination of Hex & v6.

 

I am testing my first print with the E3Dv6. It is the same Deprime model I used when testing my modified Marlin. I am using the latest version of RoboOS 1.8.0-r2.0. Just finished PID tuning the v6 and setting up MESH as well as the Home Offset. I am using @Ed Ferguson's S3D profile with just the number of skirts increased and skirt layers decreased. I made no changes to the OctoPrint scripts.

It's printing (nothing else to report just yet).

 

Will report back when finished.
I had forgotten that Ed's S3D profile defaulted to 0.1 mm layers, this is going to take much longer than it should have.

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Finished print. I think the v6 fits a bit tighter in the metal mount and because of this there is less play in the whole setup. This may allow printing at faster speeds.

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Now that is a perfect DePrime

 

Upon closer examination there doesn't appear to be any signification difference in printer performance between the two hotends. I wouldn't do this upgrade if you are solely looking for better prints. It might mitigate other unquantified issues but there are no guarantees. The v6 is completely rebuildable so there is that advantage.

These are identical prints, same gcode, same filament, same settings. Only difference is the hotend.

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