Printer error Bed not heating up

Hello All
My bed for the R2 isn't heating up
Not sure what to do. I took a pic of the error on the screen and the pogos
thank you

 

Ok kewl ill do that. Thank you!

 

I just ordered one. They say they are on back-order.

 

You can still print pla without the heat. I have been printing with mine. Just turn off the heated bed in your slicer profiles and the startup scripts in ocoprint. You will have to uncomment one you have the new board.

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It appears there might be an updated bed out there. Braydon is sending me one which he says will solve the pogo pin issue and make it easier for ABS printing. It should be here soon as it left almost a month ago. I will let you know what happens.

TC

 

The new V2 beds are awesome. With the original bed and pogo pins, I had a real hard time getting my bed temp past 85 C, and even that would take 40-45 minutes or so. With the V2, I can easily get it to 110 C and it takes maybe 10 minutes to do it. I'm extremely pleased with it and I highly recommend the change to anyone with an R2.

However, I need to be clear. The ONLY reason Robo sent me the new V2 bed is because I had a problem with my original. I did not buy it; it was a replacement. They even asked me to keep it quiet for a while. But, since others have posted about the V2, I figured I could share my experience.

I think after the holidays, they should be caught up enough to start selling it online, but don't quote me on that.

 

The v2 boards have a failure too. The connection uses an 8 pin / socket connector. The mating of the pins and sockets can get loose over time. Bad / loose connection leads to high current and then component melting... even if you fix the metal, the plastic will have become brittle and will eventually break.

am currently in the middle of resolving an occurance of this with Robo.

 

Between parts and shipping, I spent 40 beaners with Digikey to buy some spare connectors, pins, sockets, etc, to build a jumper cable from 20AWG wire in an effort to reduce strain on the original, heated, and damaged connector, but it's not helping. The unit dies in the middle of a print once one of the sockets (that carries the bed heater voltage) moves a certain way. The entire connector with the socket that plugged into the v2 bed is split in half along the center two (of 8) socket locations, due to the melting.

As a last resort, I'll have to re-terminate the Robo cable itself, and surface mount a new connector onto the bed. But I will press Robo to make this right first.

For those interested, the first one is the one under the bed. The second and third are to make a jumper cable or to replace the connector on the end of the robo cable

 

No s....t, really? Damn that sucks. I'll have to look out for this. Is there any way to prevent this, other than leaving the bed connected at all times?

 

In my opinion, the whole pin / socket leaves a place for problems. But if you want the bed to be removable, you have to either do this, the pogo style, or have a really LONG cable (which has its own dangers of getting caught up in the print head as it travels).

 

Yeah, there's no way I will go back to the pogo pins. That bed sucks compared to this one, especially with respect to heating time. I'll just have to limit taking the bed out. It shouldn't be a problem because I have a sheet of glass on top of it; that's what I'm printing on from now on. No more PEI or Buildtak, unless I have no other option. Glass is way better in my opinion.

 

I’ve never tried on glass. Is there some thermal paste or something between the buildtak and the glass, or do you just lay the glass on top of the bed, and hold it on with some clips ?




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Curious to know how the glass would be held on the bed even with clips


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I bought a 9" x 9" x 1/8" thick sheet of borosilicate from McMaster: https://www.mcmaster.com/#borosilicate-glass/=1ayvu11. The 9" x 9" size is perfect for this V2 bed.

There are no clips that you can use because the bed itself is too thick. Well, I haven't found anything that would clip it on. I just set it on top and tape down the sides with painters tape. No thermal paste. As a matter of fact, I've never found that necessary. The glass heats up just as fast and just as good as the bed itself. And it's really easy to remove. It's not pretty, but I don't really care about that. I'd rather have pretty prints than a pretty printer. Bed adhesion is amazing if you use glue stick or hair spray. Prints stick to it really well and they are soooooooo easy to remove. Hair spray is my favorite though. In the image, you can see the glass top looks kind of splotchy. That's the hair spray.

 

Currently I still have original print bed, may be when the V2 goes on sale or my current one decides to fail or something. I’ll get it.


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I would definitely recommend it. The V2 is a vast improvement over the original. It heats up 10 times faster (that's actually been clocked by me), and it can heat past 90C easily. I couldn't do that with my pogo pin bed.

In all honesty, it would be good to put an 8" x 8" glass sheet on top of the pogo pin bed, until you get the V2.

 

I just print with pla right now so basically haven’t had that need, but I will definitely get the V2 bed once it’s available for sale


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Well that's good. I couldn't even get PLA to print that well on the PEI sheet. It either stuck on there so hard that I would destroy the print taking it off the bed, or it wouldn't stick at all. I have no problems like that with glass. So, if you are getting good prints, then don't worry about it.