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Unresolved Gcode Question

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Aflickted, Jan 11, 2018.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, the R1+ has leadscrews, the previous ones have threaded rods
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have one with threaded rods and one with leadscrews, the difference in print quality is minimal. You really have to know what you are looking for AND be printing with enough detail to matter. I normally don't do detail prints on either of those machines (heck, one uses a rather large volcano nozzle).
     
  4. Aflickted

    Aflickted Member

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    ok both of mine have threaded rods...for now. one is getting upgraded in the next few days. I have the lead screws. So I should upload the stock firmware and change it for the E3D and the Lcd?
     
  5. Aflickted

    Aflickted Member

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    I'm only replacing the threaded rods with leadscrews because i have to replace the threaded rods anyway. I figured why go back with threaded rod.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If it is the RepRap Discount LCD, no firmware change needed. If it is the Full Graphics one, then yes... you need to edit the firmware.
    The only change for the E3D is the thermistor type (theirs differs from the hexagon).
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you are changing them anyway the extra effort to swap the steppers for leadscrews is not much more than just swapping the threaded rods out.
     
  8. Aflickted

    Aflickted Member

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    So enable EEPROM
    Thermistor 5
    Hot end max temp
    Should be all I change? I did do the microstepping but I never use it so I’m not worried about that.


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  9. Aflickted

    Aflickted Member

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    Which do i use? 1,2 or 3?

    [​IMG]


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  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you have an R1 that was not very first run (i.e. right after the kickstarter beta ones), you want the item #3 If you did do the leadscrew upgrade then #1
    There are a few "unicorn" machines that need #2, but darn few.
     
    #50 mark tomlinson, Jan 15, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2018
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Frankly, once you do the leadscrew update (assuming you use the same leadscrews Robo does) then you just use R1+ firmware. That is the real difference...
     
  12. Aflickted

    Aflickted Member

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    I didn’t buy their upgrade. I bought the same kind of leadscrew though. So I would use the R1+ on the leadscrew updated one and the normal on the threaded rod printer?


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  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you did not get their upgrade then unless you are certain you have the exact same leadscrews (threading, starts and pitch are exactly the same) then you can't use the R1+ firmware. You will need to use the RepRap calculator to see what your Z Steps need to be in teh firmware based on the thread size, pitch and # of starts.
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There is at least one other thread that @WheresWaldo did showing how to use generic leadscrews to do the same thing and I suspect he demonstrated how to run the calculator to sort out the Z steps.
     
  15. Aflickted

    Aflickted Member

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    Screw has four thread starts, spaced 2mm apart, for an 8mm pitch. I have that thread saved. I almost went back with threaded rods but they were all out of everything that he had linked to buy.


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  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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  17. Aflickted

    Aflickted Member

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    My stepper motor
    [​IMG]

    So I would change the 3rd value to 400? Instead of the robo‘s kit 1600? Or am I missing an input number? I’m sorry for the trouble. Thank you for the help. I found the calculator in your upgrade post @WheresWaldo

    [​IMG]


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  18. Aflickted

    Aflickted Member

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    Hey guys. So I did what I was asked.

    1. Made a new profile.
    2. Sliced and saved a new .gcode to a new SD card AND printed from computer.
    3. Uploaded new firmware.
    4. Tried different filament
    5. New gcode and profile works fine on other printer ( so does old firmware and gcode )

    Prints are still bad. Tops of my cases won’t sit on the bottoms. (Battery cases I make) The layers are just weird. They work fine on other printer so I know it’s not design flaw. Plus I’ve printed 100’s of this exact same design.

    Belts are still tight. No weird noises. Everything is smooth.

    FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/ PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:RoBo3DR1AUTOV5

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]



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  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    While it may seem complicated, the printers are really just complex machines (lots of simple parts) and the troubleshooting falls into two categories... hardware or software.

    If you sliced a model and it printed fine on another similar printer then I think you can rule out software. None of these problems were obvious firmware problems either, but refreshing that didn't hurt. The lines on the sides of the prints now are referenced here: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#lines-on-the-side-of-print with solutions. Since we have no reference for what a good model looks like can't offer too much more than that. If there are other problems going on. Those problems referenced in that link are all hardware issues (extruder needing calibration, PID tuning needs to be done or mechanical issues with one or more drive axis)
     
    Geof likes this.
  20. Aflickted

    Aflickted Member

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    [​IMG]

    This is the same gcode and model from my other printer. This is how it is supposed to look... lol I appreciate the help. I apologize for being such a PITA. I will get it figured out. I’m trying really hard.

    Thank you.


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