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Solved Extruder (locking arm question)

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by JWW, Jan 22, 2018.

  1. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    The part I'm not understanding is screwing in the heatblock does NOT change the location of the mounting groove. Just like you can remove the heatblock assembly and still install the cold end, but like I said I dont have hands on it. I'd suggest removing the fanshroud/fans so you can see exactly what is going on up there. then take some photos and post here so we can all have the aha! moment lol.
     
  2. JWW

    JWW Member

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    ... thanks for hanging in there with me ... thinking and rechecking.
     
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  3. JWW

    JWW Member

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    ... looks like I was totally wrong, sorry about that. Glad I didn't bet my life on it.

    It appears to me that the very TOP hexagon fin on the newer extruders are larger (like slightly out of spec) than the older one that fits. The flat to flat dimension if a touch off, as is the circumscribed hexagon measurement. That prevents it from moving UP in the bore the fraction that is needed for the locking arm to fully engage.
     

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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This is not a Robo specific picture, but neither is the assembly :) All hotends assemble this way (or at least all i have ever seen). It is important that you mate the nozzle and heatbreak inside the heater block as shown. The rest is not critical:

    Heatbreak diagram.jpg
     
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I would agree. That makes much more sense. You can get ahold of them and ask for a replacement or honestly...its not a big deal...take a dremel and chop off the top fin or carve out the plastic on the fan mount so it will fit :D
     
  6. JWW

    JWW Member

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    I've been corresponding with TS for numerous times (via email) and once landline. They are trying to help. I am even more confused than ever now. I filed down all of the vertexes on the top fins and it made absolutely no difference!

    Keep in mind that the old original hotend with the gunk on the top of it fits perfectly and closes with absolutely no effort. If it wasn't broke I would simply us it.

    Just a few minutes ago I tried something else (dunno why). I rotated the new hotend (the whole assembly) 180 degrees, you know with the electrical wires coming out the wrong side (gear side) and the locking arm closes perfectly with no effort whatsoever. I tried both new hotends and they both lock in position properly if I have the wires coming out the wrong side.
     

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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well, as we always said ... a silly solution that works isn't very silly.
     
  8. JWW

    JWW Member

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    ... except the wiring is on the wrong side. <g>
     
  9. JWW

    JWW Member

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    ... I wonder if the hexagon is indexed in some way and only goes in one way.
     
  10. JWW

    JWW Member

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    Since I'm the inquisitive type, why does rotating the hotend 180 degrees allow the locking latch to easily close as it should?
     

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  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Wiring
     
  12. JWW

    JWW Member

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    I realized it's hard to believe but I did remove 'both wires' and it won't latch unless I flip it 180 degrees.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I can only guess :) I don't have an R1+ to look at (but @Geof does).
    I suspect the hotend is simply not symmetrical.
     
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  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The heatblock can be rotated in the assembly if needed (you would need to tear it down and reassemble it a little)
     
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Got to be a defective hotend then, ask them to replace it
     
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Ditto. The wade setup hasn't changed, so it has to be an egg shaped hotend mount.
     
  17. JWW

    JWW Member

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    Sorry to drag this out but it's totally frustration. Just to confirm, are the wires exiting the heatblock supposed to EXIT on the gear side or the stepper motor side. Just want to make sure that I'm not totally screwed up.
     
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I can't recall how they route stock, sorry, none of my R1 machines have been stock for a long time
     
  19. JWW

    JWW Member

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    I can't find any pics on line of the stock wiring routing with the stock Hotend. One thing I know is the wires aren't long enough if they exit on the gear side.

    I think I've nailed down the problem but not fix. I've also been able to take some quality images that clearly show the problem. It's the screw on the side of the cooling fin.

    This is one of the new Hotends installed (with wires). It's installed 180 degrees out of what I think it should be. The wires are to short and can't be routed to the connections anyway BUT it fits. The tiny screw can't be seen that is on the side of the hot end because the two red wires hide it. The Hotend latch locks in place as it should. You can even see it in the pic below (directly under the yellow TITLE ... Wires exiting)

    DSC_0048.jpg
    Below the wires have been removed from the Heatblock so you can see the screw. That's why the locking arm won't close. You can also see the locking arm in the pic below. That's also why the Hotend is cocked.

    DSC_0049.jpg
    Lastly the pic below shows the lip that the screw is hitting and it's thickness. Like I said, if I rotate the Hotend it works perfectly because the screw is on the other side and doesn't hit that lip.

    DSC_0051.jpg
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    So you need to try and as I said rotate the heater block 180 degrees. It means a partial disassembly/reassembly of the hotend. I imagine you can either move the nozzle out 1/2 turn and the heat break in 1/2 turn or vice-versa. 1/2 turn won't matter to much as long as they stay mated together internal to the heater block.
     
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