Marlin for the R2 - UBL Enabled

@jim3Dbot knows all about the IR sender / receiver specs, there are some that are better than others. I am not an electronics expert nor can I read spec sheets in depth. He went through this when he designed the IR sensor for the R1.

 

You have choices,

If you want it to home at the top but not after a print finishes you can edit the script that OctoPrint uses, I don't know why Robo wanted it to home after a print completes, they still home again before it prints again. In OctoPrint>>Settings>>GCODE Scripts>>After print job completes and remove the homing and instead move the bed down from the last point. Mine looks like this:

Code:

M104 S0 ; turn off heaters
M140 S0 ; turn off heaters
M107 ; turn off fans
G91 ; set relative mode
G1 Z50 ; move bed down 50 mm
G90 ; set absolute mode
G28 X0 Y0 ; home XY axes only
G92 E0 ; zero extruder
M84 ; turn off motors

Or, you can modify the firmware and reflash. Just edit Configuration.h :

Code:

// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
// :[-1,1]
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR  1  // [robo]
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

Personally I use the first method.

 

If you leave it in absolute mode you can go down to a specified position. I think I am going to change my script to do that instead. Better safe than sorry lowering the bed. So here is the new scripts

After print job completes

Code:

M104 S0 ; turn off heaters
M140 S0 ; turn off heaters
M107 ; turn off fans
G1 Z250 ; move bed down to bottom
G28 X0 Y0 ; home XY axes only
G92 E0 ; zero extruder
M84 ; turn off motors
M355 S0 ; turn lights off

After print job is canceled

Code:

M104 S0 ; turn off heaters
M140 S0
M107 ; turn off fans
G1 Z250 ; move bed down to bottom
G28 X0 Y0 ; home XY axes only
G92 E0 ; zero extruder
M84 ; turn off motors
M355 S0 ; turn lights off

I have my G-code controlled lights mod installed that is why I have the last line in the scripts.

 

You missed the proviso about using the Z Offset Wizard. It has a bug in it and it erases all values in EEPROM, that includes the UBL mesh values. You have to set the home offset manually and stop using the wizard.

 

I am currently in the process of reworking my version of UBL enabled Marlin for the R2 to incorporate all the additions Robo added to their version. Even though every attempt will be made to make it just a drop in replacement, there is no guarantee that all features of RoboOS will work as expected. There is no ETA on when it will be done and posted.

Only the added functionality from Robo will be included, all the stuff Robo stripped from Marlin will not be stripped from this version.

 

I am about half way through the additions Robo added, they will be functional and enableable, but the default will be UBL. Don't know why they still insist on using ABL LINEAR instead of BILINEAR.

 

the evil you know?

 

Okay, I am giving up on including any functionality that Robo has added to the R2 future firmware releases.

1. I can't see any increase in user functionality in the added code
2. There is no increase in print quality produced by their code
3. The included functionality breaks existing functionality in other portions of Marlin

Number 3 is the biggest reason not to ever use Robo's firmware. Not enough to add features, you must also do no harm. They broke stuff.

Opened ticket on their GITHUB. If you plan on using Open Source Software and you need to improve it, then you better make sure that is all your doing and not breaking shit.

 

Made a few small changes in my Marlin source, you can download a new copy from the GITHUB repository. It only consists of a few formatting changes for ease of reading and a few speed tweaks for the Z axis and homing and auto-level probing. Number of probes are increased to three per probe point.

I also cannot get G26 to work properly, I believe it depends on M851 Z_OFFSET being set and I don't, preferring to use M206 Zm.nnn (HOME_OFFSET) instead. So to test whether or not my mesh is good I created a matching STL file that is 1 mm tall. The way I use it, slice and restrict printing to one layer only. The print and cool, pop each one off and measure what it is noting the difference between the print and your slicer settings, then adjust the necessary points and/or home offset to get the correct size layer 1. Once that is done save with M500 and never level again. I have attached the STL here.

 

Can start here:
http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-ubl.html

Not sure if there is a walk through / Guide for the R2/C2 yet.

 

@WheresWaldo and the others are more conversant on this One of them may well have more to add