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ABS

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by jogul, Feb 10, 2018.

  1. jogul

    jogul Member

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    I have tried everything I can think of including a cover for the front. I've increased the raft thickness, slowed down the print speed, used blue tape with glue stick and hair spray, lowered the infill amount. I still get warping. I know its hard to print ABS on an unheated. I have not tried an ABS slury yet. I guess that is my only option. The only reason I am trying to get this to work is I have a roll of Orange ABS that I want to use to make parts for my Prusa MK2s. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
     
    #1 jogul, Feb 10, 2018
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sorry, without a heated bed ABS will be ... difficult if not impossible. It is just that way. There are a LOT of other filaments you CAN do without a bed heater, but not really ABS. On the plus side parts made with PLA will last really well :) I have built a lot of printer bits out of PLA.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Feb 10, 2018
  3. jogul

    jogul Member

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    Yeah, coming to that conclusion. I have some parts that are close to high heat and since the ABS doesn't work I will go to PETG. That, so far, has printed well.
     
    #3 jogul, Feb 10, 2018
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yep ABS won't happen on a cold bed. Is impossible. If you need them printed to get back online PM me
     
    #4 Geof, Feb 10, 2018
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    BluPrint works and has higher heat deflection than ABS :) To say nothing of PET or PETG
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Feb 10, 2018
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I am pretty sure every printed part in the Mrk3 is PET
     
    #6 WheresWaldo, Feb 10, 2018
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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can get away with PLA, so anything is viable really. I have printed a few extruders in PLA -- they work fine. I have printed every printable part in the Robo and they also work fine. Really nothing printed is subject to enough heat to matter.

    PET/G are fine, but people need to read the specs -- they are not high heat deflection filaments. :) ABS/BluPrint/PC those are.
     
    #7 mark tomlinson, Feb 10, 2018
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  8. jogul

    jogul Member

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    I'm going to remake the extruder cover in PETG. I don't have the Prusa orange but I have grey for now. That should work. It would be great if Robo came up with a heated bed accessory for the C2. I bet they would sell a lot of them.
     
    #8 jogul, Feb 10, 2018
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is such a small bed that I imagine (that is all it is) they thought it wasn't worth the effort.
    Someone (I think) did start on a heated bed project :) It would be easy to add one, the controller supports it.
     
    #9 mark tomlinson, Feb 10, 2018
  10. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Just requires some wiring and a silicone or board heater, it will be slow unless you change the PSU to 24V.
     
    #10 WheresWaldo, Feb 11, 2018
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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It will get a bit more complicated if you keep the bed removable, but yea ... not a complex thing.
    Since we know now that the rest of the electrical side is rated for 24v (unlike we were initially led to believe) I think that a 24v upgrade is a good standard idea anyway :)
     
    #11 mark tomlinson, Feb 11, 2018
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