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Solved PETG filament adjustment suggestions

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Jeff Hamilton, Feb 19, 2018.

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  1. Jeff Hamilton

    Jeff Hamilton Member

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    I'm working on the small part and I'm have a little difficulty getting my setting right. I am using S3D, with E3D V6 head on a Robo 1+, printing in fine mode, layers 1.5mm with a .40 tip, temp at 250. For the most part the surface is great, but the back corners are all muddy with some strings. Can not think of what to change to get the backside to come out as clean as the front side (see picture). Also my supports are sticking to well. I had the setting perfect with PLA, but not as good for PETG. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
     

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  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    @WheresWaldo is a PETG guy, he may have some more words of wisdom running it than I.
     
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have used TECH-G (Taulmans PETG) but not enough to really comment on it. The default settings they listed worked fine IIRC
     
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  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Depending on the slicer you can increase the interface distance between the support and the model. I also try very hard not to print with supports. If you can reorient the model to print without supports then that is what you should do.

    I print much cooler than that, using mostly eSUN PET-G but I also use the cheapest PETG-G I can find on Amazon. They all basically work the same PET-G is not good for details or very small nozzles (less than 0.4 mm). I routinely print at 0.14 layer heights (I am not sure that the R1+ can actually print 0.15 mm layers, as each step is 0.02 mm lift and you can't have fractional steps). https://www.prusaprinters.org/calculator/#optimallayer this link will show you what is possible 1.8° stepper and 4 mm rise per revolution, enter your desired layer height and it will show you if you can get there. Also since PET-G tends to ooze much more than other filaments you need to set some coasting (that is what S3D calls it, others differ) so that it isn't constantly pushing out filament when you reach the end of a run.
     
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  5. Jeff Hamilton

    Jeff Hamilton Member

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    What numbers are you using in the calculator? Using .14 I see an error so I must be doing something wrong.
     
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I listed them but here is a screen clip, you don't need to fill them all in just Leadscrew Pitch (R1+ is 4 mm/revolution) and Desired layer height of 0.15 mm. The rest can stay exactly as they are by default.

    optimallayer.png

    I know the default firmware for the R1 series (Kickstarter, Beta, R1 and the R1+Plus) have the z Axis Idle between moves, so you really should be using full steps. This is not a flaw, but rather a common practice as steppers are designed to move in full steps and only can use micro-steps by regulating current to the stepper.
     
    #6 WheresWaldo, Feb 19, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2018
  7. Jeff Hamilton

    Jeff Hamilton Member

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    Thank you. I didn't fully understand what you wrote, but I got it now. I have been slowly making changes to make improvements but I haven't hit the magic numbers yet. I have dropped the temp to 240 at start and dropped to 235 and increased the layers to .2000 and added some ooze numbers.

    What would you use for a piece that needs to be strong and have small features?
     
    #7 Jeff Hamilton, Feb 19, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2018
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I am going to echo what @mark tomlinson always suggests, small nozzle slow speeds and Taulman BluPrint or Bridge depending on your specific needs.
     
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  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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  10. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I print more PET-G than PLA, but if I need precision and strength then I choose some sort of nylon blend, usually from Taulman. @mark tomlinson has much more experience with nylons so maybe he has a recommendation I only use it once in a while.
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    well, you're playing my song now :)
    One of my personal favorites for just overall strength is Alloy 910 ... as @WheresWaldo already said if heat tolerance is an issue then BluPrint is my choice. Note that the tensile strength is less overall on BluPrint, but the heat deflection is higher than even ABS.
     
  12. Jeff Hamilton

    Jeff Hamilton Member

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    Mark,
    I have some 910 would you share your setting so I can give that a try?
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I use nothing beyond what they suggested on the label. Attached is an old FFF from an earlier version of Simplify3D you can look over. I have not really changed the settings any at all.
     

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  14. Jeff Hamilton

    Jeff Hamilton Member

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    Thank you, I'll give it a try.
     
  15. Jeff Hamilton

    Jeff Hamilton Member

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    Changed to the 910 and after several attempts working with the supports and the temp I finally got it right. I had the temp at 250 when I tried 225 the layers would delaminate. I also had to make the supports touch the table to make them easy enough to remove and to stop some stringing.They were originally too small and sometimes would just be a mess and not work. Thanks for all the help and support.
     
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