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V2 Bed Buildtak Replacement

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Shrey, Feb 20, 2018.

  1. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    what is the size of the plate? 220 seems large? Possibly worried it wont fit vs being a bit undersized?
     
  2. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    From buildtak:


    The magnetic mounting base, FlexPlate and BuildTak sheet are all the same size, though the magnetic mounting base has corner cutouts measuring 1 x 1/2” to accommodate for any bed clips. The magnetic mounting base would adhere directly to your existing glass, aluminum or sturdy acrylic bed.



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  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    no I mean the plate of the Robo (the actual beds dimensions )
     
  4. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    OK: so if the thing was a perfect square, minus the curved corners, the length is 227.60 mm.

    But the corners have a radius of 10.3 mm.
    That makes the effective “straight edge” measuring 207 mm.

    The 220 mm x 220 mm (8.66” x 8.66”) should fit nicely. The 8” x 8” is 203 mm x 203 mm and seems to still cover the print area ok, but I just think the larger size is the one I would want.

    I’ll buy one soon, and confirm.




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  5. Adam Laird

    Adam Laird Member

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    After I ordered the 8 x 8 and checked it with the paper I decided I did want the 8.66 x 8.66... I ordered it from buildtak and I’ll have to return the 8 x 8 to matterhackers when it gets here.


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  6. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    The Robo guys could have the best of both worlds if they would invest in this system for the R2. I’m sure it would cost a big set up fee for the die to cut things, but imagine if they had the V2 bed with this. They would get the desire they had with the v1 bed: removable. But with the benefit of a thin sheet that is flexible and helps “pop” the pieces off


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  7. Shrey

    Shrey Active Member

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    Somehow I have a feeling they took the most simple method with the current V2 bed.


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  8. Adam Laird

    Adam Laird Member

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    They’re probably saving it for the v3 or v4 to keep everyone on the hook once they’ve upgraded to the v2. Or it’ll be a big selling point when they roll out an R2 +
     
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  9. Shrey

    Shrey Active Member

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    Could be I wouldn’t be surprised if they do that


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  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Robo would have to license buildtak to make them for them (or come up with an in house solution like many have). Some upgrades are best left to the user :D.

    For those installing the system- be sure to remove however much height the system adds from your max z in your slicer to avoid crashes.


    FWIW I dont see them doing a R2+, the only reason the R1 series ended on a plus was the community upgrades to take what wasn't great (@mark tomlinson can enlighten the lovely beta stage) then step up to the "actual R1" which had banding problems to the R1+ which did not. Functionally very few things changed between the...multiple revisions :D.
     
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  11. Shrey

    Shrey Active Member

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    Well for now we just do our own upgrades and if they work don’t need the next upgrade


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  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Thats the best way :D
     
  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I should state that I would LOVE if they did a "engineering grade" version of the machine ;)

    Silent Step Stick Drivers, silent powersupply (a good one), large bed heater that can hold 110C quickly and easily, V6 hotend...a thermocouple on the V6 would be nice... oh and ditch the touchscreen for a SD reader :D
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    but how much of a premium is that worth?
    I sense a market, but not sure how deep :)
     
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    silent step sticks is a no brainer IMO. They spent all that time and money making a robust frame and motion system then bailed out on the drivers. Getting it as quiet as say my UM would make the machine much more "wanted" I'd think? Maybe not?

    Same for PS - cheap ones gotta go. Way way to loud

    SD Reader - thats probably just me being a cave man hating octoprint :D lol. but you know... I never once had to re image a LCD ;) R2 and C2 have been reimaged a bunch of times. Just ditch it ;) lol.

    V6/thermocouple- I might be the only person that would consider running PCs and the such daily through the machine so probably not lol. I can add I guess (grumble grumble)

    Bed heater- if UM bed heater struggled to get to 90C there would be hell, would love to see Robo fix the underwhelming bed heater :D should it cost more on the retail side? Nah, but sure would help sales me thinks?
     
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  16. Adam Laird

    Adam Laird Member

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    I installed the 8.66 x8.66 FlexPlate! I’m trying to figure out temp settings for it now. I set it to 75 on the printer and the bed itself topped out at 69. A lot of that probably has to do with the conditions of the room my printers in, but its added another 2mm of material above the bed itself so I’m not all that surprised. I’m definitely going to have to let it preheat for a couple minutes before I start printing to let it catch up.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


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  17. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    looking good. Mine ships tomorrow. same size as yours. I like how it looks.
    Did you remove the old buildtak from you bed before installing the magnetic base?
     
  18. Adam Laird

    Adam Laird Member

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    Thanks! I took the old buildtak off so there wasn’t any extra space between the heater and the surface. Being able to use the screws around the edge of the bed to line up the base was also a plus!


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  19. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    “Wait!!! Your flexiplate’s not on? “

    For $100, I’d think they would have taken the time to have proper English... I mean, even if they are from NJ



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  20. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    One last question / observation. The flexiplate’s corners seems to be curved, and the buildtak, right angled. So there is a part where the adhesive is exposed? I may trim mine, as I could imagine pieces of extruded filament getting stuck to the bottom of the corner, and lifting the edge. There are always scrap pieces floating around in the bottom of my R2, regardless of how much I clean it.


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