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Solved Burnt Power and Heated Bed Connector

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by hunterschade, Feb 9, 2018.

  1. hunterschade

    hunterschade New Member

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    Sooo... lately my printer has been printing like shit and has had the bed not heating. Turns out the connectors are burn all to hell... is there any way to fix this other than replacing the ramps board and how do I prevent this in the future?
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    RAMPS boards are cheap, replace it. It will always be a crapshoot, Chinese manufacturing led to the race to the bottom on most electronics.
     
    #2 WheresWaldo, Feb 10, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2018
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  4. hunterschade

    hunterschade New Member

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    Thanks. I do have a r1+... I have a spare ramps board but i think I'm going to try to get a correct one from robo even if it costs a little more to not have to deal with the head ache. I will let you know how it all goes
     
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good luck, of late they have not been able to keep them stocked.
     
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  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    A generic RAMPS board with optional TMC stepper drivers, would make the R1 series capable of running faster, quieter and the steppers cooler. That would be a great replacement. But that said, any old RAMPS compatible board would work and the ones from China all over Amazon are as cheap as dirt.
     
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  7. Chuck Glenn

    Chuck Glenn Member

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    Like this? Same thing has happened to me twice in the 3 years I've had the R1+. I ordered a replacement board, but none of the parts matched, so I just stole the connector and put it onto my bed heater wires and plugged back in. Everything worked for about a year then it happened again.
     

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  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is a RAMPS board limitation. 11 AMPS is a lot to pull through those pluggable terminal block connectors. Plus they come in two varieties that look almost identical : a 10 amp variety and a 15 amp variety. On top of all that if the wires are loose in those connectors, well, that little bit if added resistance adds a lot of extra heat. Swapping the RAMPS is the best solution -- granted on the R1+ that means converting it back to a standard RAMPS 1.4, but it is not terribly difficult. [the beta and R1 use a standard RAMPS 1.4 to start with, the R1+ is slightly customized, but really just has some different connectors]
     
  9. Chuck Glenn

    Chuck Glenn Member

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    The biggest problem I had was ordering a RAMPs board for cheap and not even seeing a spot for some of the labeled connectors. I'd be fine it I had the EXACT SAME board with the same connectors and labels, but what I got for $30 didn't match well enough.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    We have a detailed thread on here that @Geof did that covers swapping to a generic RAMPS board.
    I have not had any troubles with the generic $12 ones other than at that price, you somegets get a birth defective one. Amazon Prime handles that too :)
     
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  11. tonycstech

    tonycstech Active Member

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    I'd like to get some guide on that.
    I can sleep with my R1 printing all night long right next to my bed, but i'd wake up once or twice.
     
  12. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Unless you sleep like a hibernating bear this will never happen even if you replace all the fans.
     
  13. tonycstech

    tonycstech Active Member

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    But i would sleep better if i had TMC installed.
    Thats why.
    Is there a write up somewhere ?
     
  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Quieter is relative and is not the same as QUIET
     
  15. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    This was a recent issue with my R1+. The heat bed kept turning on & off every time the wires would wiggle. One prong on the green plug connector for the heated bed connection was loose, and pulled out of the solder joint on the Ramps board. I soldered the pin back into place, and did the same thing for the pin next to it. The hot end green connector plug was fine so I left it. Does anybody know how many watts the 12 volt bed requires? I want to add a solid state heat bed controller, and a hot end solid state controller to prevent this overheating issue in the future.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    In the R1/R1+ the bed is roughly 110-130 watts. There is no exact number from Robo, but that is ballpark.
     

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