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Turn Off Z axis levelling ?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Trevor C, Apr 10, 2018.

  1. Trevor C

    Trevor C Member

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    Can someone remind me please as I was happily printing without the auto Z axis levelling and then it wanted to update which seems to have B***red everything up.

    So can someone remind me how to turn off the auto Z axis leveling please so we can get back to sensible, good prints again.

    If I recall its the in the system settings....

    Sorry. I'll write it down this time
    !
     
    #1 Trevor C, Apr 10, 2018
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    #2 mark tomlinson, Apr 10, 2018
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  3. Trevor C

    Trevor C Member

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    G36 ?

    I may have removed it previously but since the update it is off doing its auto leveling thing again?

    or is there anything else that looks odd about the before start script?




    ; set to millimeters
    G21
    ; set to absolute mode
    G90
    ; zero extruder
    G92 E0
    ; turn off fans
    M107
    ;non blocking heatup of extruder and bed
    M104 S230
    M140 S60
    ; Robo Leveling
    G36
    ; pause for 2 seconds
    G4 S2
    ; move bed down 15mm
    G1 Z15 F300
    ; move to front left corner
    G1 X10 Y1 F7200
    ; heat to priming line temp
    M109 S230
    M140 S60
    ; move bed to printing position
    G1 Z0.3
    ; print 190mm priming line
    G1 X190 E15.0 F500
    ; move bed down
    G1 Z15 F300
    ; zero extruder
    G92 E0
    ; set movement speed
    G1 F7200
     
    #3 Trevor C, Apr 10, 2018
  4. Trevor C

    Trevor C Member

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    #4 Trevor C, Apr 10, 2018
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Go for it. Mine is not on that version so it is (or was) still the G29;
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Apr 10, 2018
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    They changed the new version to a G36, remove it. It causes more harm then good. My C2 start up is literally G28. Thats it lol. It homes then starts the print. Make sure to remove from octoprint and your slicer if its in there too.
     
    #6 Geof, Apr 11, 2018
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  7. David Mrazik

    David Mrazik New Member

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    This resolved a silly print issue where printing the raft the nozzle was 2 or so mm above the print bed and the stream of filament was coming out like a noodle. No idea why removing G36 would help with the base layer of the raft.... but I'll happily take it. I considered this fix because I didn't want the bed to auto-level at all times, causing slower prints, and I noticed my prints had a "hill" in it from where the z was leveling something it saw. Thanks !
     
    #7 David Mrazik, Aug 11, 2018
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  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, I don't use autoleveling on the C2 any longer (or any of the Robos). The only printer I actually still have it enabled on is a delta.
     
    #8 mark tomlinson, Aug 11, 2018
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  9. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Interesting thread. I have been using the G36 code in the Octoprint start script. After reading the various comments about G36, I commented that gcode out and substituted G29 P1. Why?
    in my new project, the print bed is so flat that the G36 code goes haywire, whereas the G29 P1 code works splendidly.

    Update:

    After all has been said, I ended up doing like @Geof has stated. A simple G28 code in place of the G36 & G29 codes.
     
    #9 tkoco, Apr 22, 2019
    Last edited: May 10, 2019
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  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good to know -- I still don't see it being tremendously helpful on the C2, but if it works -- awesome
     
    #10 mark tomlinson, Apr 22, 2019

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