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Several Questions to a beginning novice

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Jack Bushong, Feb 20, 2019.

  1. Jack Bushong

    Jack Bushong New Member

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    I have the Robo R2. I've gone through 3 hot ends due to clogging etc. I've had a few good prints and a lot that goofed after 24 hours right at the end, ugh! I have no luck with material other than pla and abs. I did use Simplify for a while until I learned how to manipulate the position and size of the print on Cura.

    I bought the Ruby nozzle and used the filament it came with it. The filament tangled and the $90 nozzle clogged. I've tried to clean it but there is still some carbon in it that is blocking the flow.

    1. The listed phone number is not working. Is there a new one? Is customer service as good as it was a year ago? Is this company beginning to fail?

    2. How can I clean out the ruby nozzle. I tried several different drill pins and I also have a hot gun that can supposedly reach 1000 deg F. How can I clean it completely? Is there a solvent or should I just blast the temperature up over 300 deg or so?

    3. I'm using Cura 2.5. Is there an updated version that works for the R2? Or should I buy or download a better software that works well with the R2 with minimal setting changes or in other words, a dummy mode?

    4. I've heard about other better nozzles such as the Bowden Extruder i3, what version will work on the R2?

    5. I get significant carbon build up on the nozzle and bottom of hot end. I've heard I can get high temperature plastic covers that are cheap and are disposable. Where do I get those? Will they work with the HotEnd from R2?

    6. I'm going to try out the new ColorFabb n-gen_flex Co-Polyester filament that is sold by R2. What type nozzle should I use? I have several different kinds on hand that I'm trying out. Also it doesn't look like Cura has that one listed in the defaults. Is there another setting in Cura that closely matches what I could use?

    7. My rocker on off switch failed. Robo sent me another board. The other board works fine but I turn the machine on and off by the plug. I know that's not good but at least I have another board I can use. I've found places that sell rocker switches that have three prongs like the board I have. I just need a rocker switch that is rated for 125v and 10 amps. Does anyone know if I could get away with just soldering a new switch on and keeping the board as a back up? I'm outside the warranty range now but I don't really want to go through the trouble of installing a new board, especially if the one I have works perfectly well.

    7. Finally, I'm thinking of getting another printer for support pieces. What brand and model do you recommend that's around 1200 or less? Which ones are good for semi-beginners?

    Sorry for all the questions but I very much appreciate it. I have tried to do some research on these questions but I get conflicting info sometimes.

    Thank you very much!!!!
    Jack B.
     
    #1 Jack Bushong, Feb 20, 2019
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    First -- this is a user forum (all printer owners) so you are not talking to "Robo3D" here. We can try to help :)


    1. Apparently they stopped support via phone and will respond to emails.

    2. No clue, never switched to using one of those (they are expensive and hardened steel nozzles are a lot cheaper and work fine) Someone who perhaps has switched can speak up on those.

    3. I don't use Cura or any of the free slicers. I go tired of chasing problems in free software. We have a number of Cura users so one of them can add some value.

    4. Probably, You can convert ANY extruder to work, but it will require some work. There is a thread here that @WheresWaldo did on modifications to make the E3D work and that was some effort.

    5. E3D makes those for their hotend, there are generic ones, but most don't fit the Hexagon hotend that Robo used. Check around the web.

    6. Any nozzle is fine, I use copolyesters like that all the time and they work fine in brass nozzles the hardended steel ones. They will more aggressively wear the brass ones so you will need to swap nozzles (they are cheap) more frequently.

    7. No, but likely Amazon has something similar. I don't have an R2 to look at -- @WheresWaldo might know,.

    7. (again with '7'?) FDm? Prusa. Excellent machines -- other tech like SLA or DLP are better for high detail work.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Feb 20, 2019
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  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Please note I purposely did not answer all the questions as @mark tomlinson got most.

    2. Also no clue on the Ruby nozzle, there is what I believe to be an inherent design flaw in the Ruby that causes too much backpressure as there is an abrupt transition between the brass outer jacket and the ruby insert all hardened steel, stainless steel and even brass nozzles are tapered where the transition from the bore to the actual orifice is.

    3. Not a Cura user, but I believe the latest version will work, you might have to 'manually' (as in type in) all your settings as a Custom printer in newer versions of Cura, but I am not 100% on that.

    4. Not exactly sure what you are asking, Extruder or Hotend? I modeled a replacement top for the R2 that retrofits a E3D Titan extruder, but there is someone else who did a better mod than I did to get an E3Dv6 to fit in the current setup. See the mods thread to find it.

    5. I think the silicone socks that fit over the hotend are not the E3D version. I am pretty sure the Hexagon hotend that Robo uses is just an ordinary 16 mm heat zone, more like this size
    , [​IMG]
    If not then a version that fits the E3D hot zone will look like this,
    [​IMG]

    7. Just a guess, try Digikey or Mouser

    8. I am not a real beginner so I never look for 'plug & pray' 3D printers, but a lot of people swear by the Prusa Mk3.
     
    #3 WheresWaldo, Feb 21, 2019
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  4. Jack Bushong

    Jack Bushong New Member

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    Thanks so much. This is a huge help.
     
    #4 Jack Bushong, Feb 23, 2019
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Hard to go wrong with a legit Prusa :)
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Feb 23, 2019

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