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3D Printed Female and Male Model

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by IPH, Apr 8, 2019.

  1. IPH

    IPH New Member

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    Hello,

    My husband just recently purchased this 3D printer a few months ago. Printing things with straight edges have worked pretty well for him so far. I currently want to print 3D models of females and males of different shapes and sizes. We have tried multiple times with no success. They all printed with some features but ended up looking like a bird's nest.

    I need the features detailed because I will be making silicone molds for sculpting.

    He is familiar with 3D studio max, Daz, autodesk, etc. He has worked with them for years. He says it's probably calibration issues and there will be trials and errors.

    He currently works full-time so I'm trying to do all I can do on my end to keep the ball rolling.The figures I'm looking to have are around 6, 6 1/2, and 7 inches.

    So what can I suggest to him so we can get my molds?

    Thank you for your help.
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hello @IPH and welcome to the forum. Which printer exactly did you buy and can you provide photos of the failures you are seeing? We will be guessing at issues without seeing exactly what your seeing and knowing exactly what you've tried :D
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    As initial ideas here are some general rules -- assuming your models are well built and reflect what you want.

    -Sanity check the models with a verification tool (NetFab will do this and some slicers have built in verifiers) because models that look awesome can internally be unprintable missed or extra splines or vertices will generate garbage gcode.
    -Once you know the models are good look at the details of how you are slicing it. If the layer lines are too large you will loose some details. I can't cleanly and reliably print a 0.1mm line/wall with a 0.4 nozzle (in simple terms -- yes you CAN do it, but that get more complicated). Given that the best print is generate with layer heights that are 40% to 70% of the nozzle diameter, you have to think about that when controlling the detail.
    -Given the above things start lowering your layer height and nozzle sizes to get higher levels of detail. This means you also must slow down the overall print speed linear with the nozzle diameter change (0.1 layer height instead of 0.2 requires a 50% reduction in print speed for best results).
     
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  4. IPH

    IPH New Member

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    We got the R1 Plus I'm trying to upload the photos now
     
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    If you cant please send me a private message and we can work out how to get them posted for you.
     
  6. IPH

    IPH New Member

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    Sorry for the delay with the pictures. Again it's a R1 Plus.

    Here are the pictures.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    It appears a lot of the issues are coming from the part separating from the support structure? Is that true? If so the setting you want to look into is the "air gap" or "separation distance" in the slicer your using. It will make removing supports harder but help keep the part on the supports when printing.
     
  8. IPH

    IPH New Member

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    Thank you. I will pass this on to my husband when he gets home. I do believe he knows most of this but I am not sure.
     
  9. IPH

    IPH New Member

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    Okay. Thank you. I will pass this on to my husband when he gets home.:)
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Also -- try another slicer.
    Most of the free ones have been extremely crap at generating decent support material, but in recent history a couple have gotten better.
     
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  11. IPH

    IPH New Member

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    Thank you all for your help. Things are going a lot smoother now.
    :)
     
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