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Solved Robo 3D R1 Plus loose USB PORT ON ARDUINO MEGA stops prints

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by XxGingerSharkxX, Jul 20, 2019.

  1. XxGingerSharkxX

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    Okay so every now and then my R1+ randomly stops printing. I am using a raspberry pi with octor print and a Full Graphics display from RepRap. I found from digging around in the threads that the USB on the Arduino Mega is a bit loose and pron to loosing it conection via USB. Even if I'm running my gcode and I have octoprint connected. If it gets knocked just a little bit. The print stops and I get this message on the LCD.

    "endstop hitting: Z"

    and on OctoPrint it says that the usb connection was lost.

    I have printed out a stablizer for the cable and even ducttaped the cable to the side of the machine. It will still stop at random times. I only use OctoPrint to monitor my prints from work and to stop the print remotley if anything happens.

    What I would like to know is if I could sulder on a usb cable directly to the Arduino Mega? Or if there was another solution?
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Easiest solution is to simply replace the Arduino Mega.
    Yes, it requires some disassembly, but it is the simplest, best fix.
    The USB connector is integrated onto the Mega.

    Can you replace it? Yes, if you are handy with a solder-station you can do it, but seeing how cheap a clone mega 2560 is I'd just swap it, reload the firmware and go back to printing. You can then replace the USB connector if you want on the bench and if it works -- Yay! Spare.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    P.S. soldering the USB cable directly to the Mega is not a really good solution (you could do that too, but it is going to be harder)
     
  4. XxGingerSharkxX

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    Thanks again, as always. One question what are the dimensions for the glass bed of the R1 plus? I found a local company that could cut the glass form so I can replace the warped bed
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    10"x15.125"

    to be exact.
     
  6. XxGingerSharkxX

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    You are awesome


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  7. XxGingerSharkxX

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    Oh and will I need to get a new heating unit for the bed? If so any recommendations


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I'd suggest you use a silicone heater pad of the appropriate size and use a higher wattage one (stock power supply can only support about 130 watts of bed heat) with a standalone power supply (and a relay to remove it from from the RAMPS direct output). There are threads on all of those options here too. That way you get a faster/better heater and remove the ability for it to smoke the RAMPS board :)
     
  9. XxGingerSharkxX

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    Could I remove the aluminum on the old on and salvage the original heating element? trying save money where I can.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sure, you could. Just be careful pulling it off of the old bed.

    You can maybe find another one that size and wattage, but (having looked around) it is hard. So if you do need a new one just go the extra miles and use a hefty wattage one with a separate supply. In fact -- they make some that work off of 110v/240v AC so no power supply needed, just a relay :)
     
  11. XxGingerSharkxX

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    As always Mark, you are the best.
     
  12. XxGingerSharkxX

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    Got the quote on the glass. $6.00 with tax. This Print it self has been a project on its own. But I’m loving it. I feel so accomplished figuring these problems out.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    For what it is worth we have used one of the AC heater pads on a printer (not a Robo -- yet) and it heats up impressively fast.
    Under a minute to get to temp and stabilize. (it is not as large a bed as the Robo, but still impressive)
     

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