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Answered Print Bed Stopped Heating

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by nol b, Feb 12, 2016.

  1. nol b

    nol b Member

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  2. lemuba

    lemuba Active Member

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    That does mean first that you should measure the heated bed resistance through the connecting wires for a possible cable break.
    If this is OK you also check/measure the 12Volt for the print bed. If the 12V are missing I would go for the fuse.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Does the extruder still heart up?
    Is it only the bed heat that has stopped working?

    Check the 12v to the bed heater and let us know the results of that as well.
     
  4. wesleybelgium

    wesleybelgium New Member

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    for me this problem was with the cable of the heated bed
    it was damaged internally from the movement
    dont know if this apply's also for you ?
     
  5. nol b

    nol b Member

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    I measured the terminal and the wires appear to be getting 12V (just over actually). I also measured the wires going to the heater and it showed about 1.5 Ohm which makes it seem like the wires aren't fully broken. Since the 12V is coming through though it seems like maybe the heating element is somehow broken. Thoughts?

    The nozzle heats up just fine. Also, the thermistor is consistently reading room temperature.
     
  6. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Did you do a feel test to see if the bed is cool? If it's getting 12v and you're measuring resistance it WILL heat up. More than likely it's just not getting a temperature from the bed because the thermistor came loose.
     
  7. nol b

    nol b Member

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    I felt it on both the print bed as well as the heater under the bed and neither got hot. I'll recheck everything and take photos of where I'm measuring and the values on the multimeter. Maybe I measured something incorrectly.
     
  8. nol b

    nol b Member

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    I finally decided to get back to this since I just installed an E3Dv6.

    I've attached images of the setup and measurements. When I measured the resistance, it showed 2.6 Ohm. It wasn't steady though. It would move between 2.6 and 2.9.

    When I measured the power source, it was constant at 12.26V.

    What should the resistance of the hotbed wires be?
     

    Attached Files:

  9. nol b

    nol b Member

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    If anyone can recommend a suitable replacement heat pad with a thermistor, I'd be willing to just swap it to see if that fixes it.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    @daniel871 made a suggestion here:

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...ating-element-from-the-glass.8434/#post-74959

    pretty much anything the same size would work, if it is 12vdc you can drop it in and if it is 24vdc or A/C powered you are going to need to drive it from a relay attached to the RAMPS and provide power for it somewhere else like this:

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/220-volts-ac-bed-heater.7936/

    EDIT: Also you will need to upgrade the power supply if you go with a heater larger than 11a (roughly 125-130 watts). That same sized (physically) power supply can be had in a larger capacity for less than $40 US so if you found (for example) a 150 watt heater you would rather use, that is another option.
     
    #10 mark tomlinson, Apr 2, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2017
  11. nol b

    nol b Member

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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes you can directly control the heater with a 12v relay (running whatever power drives it through the contacts)

    25A is too much for the 30A supply you currently have installed. You can find similar power supplies to what is installed with larger current capabilities. I am not sure at what size they will become too large to fit where the stock power supply is mounted.
    This one might fit or might be a little too tall:

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Sup...d-Driver-AC110-220V-For-Strip/1712987368.html

    But you can hunt around to find one that will work OR (since you are using a relay) just mount a second power supply that only drives the bed heater.
     
  13. nol b

    nol b Member

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    Looking at the numbers I measured earlier:
    V = 12.26 V
    R = 2.6 Ohm
    that would mean the stock heater looks like it would draw 4A.

    Does this sound right? If it does, then I may have some other issue. Could it be that the ends of the wires for the heater just aren't making a good enough connection to the terminal? Should I try trimming them and then see if it works?
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The stock heater will draw up to 11 amps. The resistance is difficult to accurately read with a meter*.
    Poor connections will cause it to draw more current so cleaning that up if they need it can help.


    *better to judge current draw by watts and volts
     
  15. nol b

    nol b Member

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    thought i'd report back on this....better late than never.

    i finally fixed it (tonight) by replacing the RAMPS board. i also bought a relay board for heater but i haven't hooked that up yet. so much time has gone by that i replaced my old v1.4 with a v1.6.

    the only issue i have now is that the 12V aux pins aren't on the v1.6 so i have to find a different way to power my cooling fan.
     
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    cold end fan, leds and case fan can be wired direct to the 12v power supply (always on )
     
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  17. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    The case LEDs always flickered when I had them wired to the 1.4 RAMPS. I wired them to the power supply, along with the fans using a special fan wiring harness from a local Micro Center store. That harness was about $8, and saved a lot of time. Everything was plug & play without splicing.
     
  18. nol b

    nol b Member

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    here's what i ended up doing...
    i added some terminal blocks for to make it easier to add more connections. i also added a relay to drive the heat bed. and you can't tell from the picture but i'm using a RAMPS 1.6 instead of the RAMPS 1.4. for the fan, i just cut the end connector off and soldered some extension wires to it so that it would reach my terminal blocks.

    here are the parts:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CLY5N9T?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0794YN8XK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074KZF772?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
    20191118_221359.jpg
     
  19. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    Did you print the fan adapter for the RAMPS or was it purchased? I see two cables going to an external LCD controller. Which one do you have?
     
  20. nol b

    nol b Member

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    i printed the fan adapter for the RAMPS. i think i might have bought the fan myself. i don't think the printer came with that fan back when i got mine.

    the LCD controller is this guy:
    https://www.tindie.com/products/PrintedSolid/smart-lcd-controller-xxl/

    i bought the controller from Printed Solid but it's not listed on their site anymore (bought it back in like 2014 or 2015).
     
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